Wickett & Craig Drum Dyed Brown Skirting . Many Questions.

[triage1998]

Been playing around with my brown colored holsters the last couple months and getting extremely frustrated with how uneven and splotchy it can get. I mainly dip dye my Hermann Oak leather. I am using 2 quarts of Fiebings Dark Brown Professional stain mixed with 2 gallons of denatured alcohol. I dip the holster leather for the same amount of time each time. It is only with the Hermann Oak cow hide I get the inconsistencies and different shade, especially after I wet mold the holster. It looks great wet but when it dries I get all kinds of different shades and splotches 50% of the time.

Sometimes I get a beautiful brown color even throughout the whole holster and sometimes I can get a orange brown shade. Not ugly but not what the customer requested. Now my horse hide comes out the shade I want 90% of the time. Occasionally I may get a piece that is darker or lighter than I want but it is close enough in color to be happy with it..

I tried spraying using my Iwata sprayer but ventilation is a huge problem. I may go back to it but was wondering if anyone is using Wickett and Craig brown drum dyed skirting? How is your experience with the drum dyed browns vs your experience with dip dying brown or even spraying the brown with a sprayer. I am thinking about going the spraying route but was wondering if anyone has any formed holsters made with W&C drum dyed brown they made, with pics, they would be willing to show?

Edited March 3, 2013 by triage1998

[Shooter McGavin]

I bought a side of their chestnut and wasnt thrilled.

I decided to dye all of my browns after wet molding and drying. Slows down production but it's the only way I can consistently avoid the dark spots, which typically formed around the stitch lines.

[dickf]

I'm on a phone, so I'll cut to the chase - understand I'm not being short.

Your dye - try dipping in Angelus. Ive used both, there's honestly no comparison. Dip dye equals even color every time. Same with Lincoln brand, it's excellent. I think you're in Ohio, PM me - I'm in cincy, I'll give you some local contacts.

Your process - one cannot judge the final product after dipping in dye. You must take it through the entire process, as splotches will often go away after molding and topcoat.

Your leather - could be the HO, but I think it has more to do wityh product vs leather. I've dipped HO plenty if times with consistent results. But, since you asked....

This is W&C skirting in chestnut. The lighting plays a huge role as both of the holsters were exactly the same color off camera. (Don't poke fun at them, they're old!)

Drum dyed is awesome. I can't afford to stock all the weights I use in all the colors I offer, or else that's the route I'd take. Saves loads of time (which = $$), too.

Hope this helps!

[triage1998]

I bought a side of their chestnut and wasnt thrilled.

I decided to dye all of my browns after wet molding and drying. Slows down production but it's the only way I can consistently avoid the dark spots, which typically formed around the stitch lines.

Dan I have been doing the Lou Alessi way of holster making. I cut my leather, then dye, sew, wet mold, finish. Before I wet mold the color is even but when I wet mold, and it starts to dry, I get the splotches and dark spots. Nothing worse than making a $150 holster and it comes out like dog doo.

I'm on a phone, so I'll cut to the chase - understand I'm not being short.

Your dye - try dipping in Angelus. Ive used both, there's honestly no comparison. Dip dye equals even color every time. Same with Lincoln brand, it's excellent. I think you're in Ohio, PM me - I'm in cincy, I'll give you some local contacts.

Your process - one cannot judge the final product after dipping in dye. You must take it through the entire process, as splotches will often go away after molding and topcoat.

Your leather - could be the HO, but I think it has more to do wityh product vs leather. I've dipped HO plenty if times with consistent results. But, since you asked....

This is W&C skirting in chestnut. The lighting plays a huge role as both of the holsters were exactly the same color off camera. (Don't poke fun at them, they're old!)

Drum dyed is awesome. I can't afford to stock all the weights I use in all the colors I offer, or else that's the route I'd take. Saves loads of time (which = $$), too.

Hope this helps!

I like that chestnut. I would love to see the W&C brown skirting with a final acrylic finished

Are you guys cutting your dye with denatured alcohol or using full strength?

Edited March 3, 2013 by triage1998

[Shooter McGavin]

I only use the Fiebings Oil Dyes, full strength. Applied with a dauber or foam brush.

[dickf]

I'm using all dye at full strength via dipping. As soon as the panel is wet, it's out of the dye.

This is W&C brown

[Colt Hammerless]

Triage, what water are you using to wet mold with? I've had a similar problem with dark spots from wet molding, and think I've narrowed it down to the mineralization in my tap water. I've been using distilled water for a while. I haven't made too many light colored holsters since switching, but have made a few, and the problem seems to have gone away. I was having this problem with both HO and W&C.

Paul

[Shooter McGavin]

I tried dip dieing but it was messy. When I did my St. Patricks Day Special green holsters last year I dip dyed them all. What kind of container are you using?

[renegadelizard]

+1 for the W&C drum dyed...it saves me a ton of time, and there is no mess to speak of...occasionally, ill have to dye something to match grips, etc, but thats an exception...when i did dye, i found that dyeing before molding was easier for me...burnishing any part of the leather will affect how the dye takes, so it was easier for me to dye beforehand...

[triage1998]

Triage, what water are you using to wet mold with? I've had a similar problem with dark spots from wet molding, and think I've narrowed it down to the mineralization in my tap water. I've been using distilled water for a while. I haven't made too many light colored holsters since switching, but have made a few, and the problem seems to have gone away. I was having this problem with both HO and W&C.

Paul

Paul I am using tap water out of my utility sink. I never even thought about the minerals and chemicals in out water supply.

I tried dip dieing but it was messy. When I did my St. Patricks Day Special green holsters last year I dip dyed them all. What kind of container are you using?

Dan I am using the 5 gallon homer buckets from home depot and then threw out the snap on lid that came with it(pain in the butt to get on and off easily and messy as hell when it snaps off and you have dye on the edge). I added a lid they sell in the paint department that spins on for easy access.

I usually have around 3 or 4 gallons of my custom denatured alcohol and dye mixture in there.

+1 for the W&C drum dyed...it saves me a ton of time, and there is no mess to speak of...occasionally, ill have to dye something to match grips, etc, but thats an exception...when i did dye, i found that dyeing before molding was easier for me...burnishing any part of the leather will affect how the dye takes, so it was easier for me to dye beforehand...

I am leaning towards just getting the drum dyed but I am going to try and spray some test pieces with full strength Angelus and Fiebings pro dyes and some of my denatured alcohol custom dye mixtures I have this week to see how they come out. I will keep the thread updated.

Thanks for the replies and the help!

[Frank]

I use W/C drum dyed leathers exclusively, along with their Oak. Here is a photo of one of my holsters finished with Bag Kote. Using different top finishes, you can either lighten or darken the finished product. It seems that Tan kote will give you a light lighter color than what I have shown here.

Frank

[triage1998]

I use W/C drum dyed leathers exclusively, along with their Oak. Here is a photo of one of my holsters finished with Bag Kote. Using different top finishes, you can either lighten or darken the finished product. It seems that Tan kote will give you a light lighter color than what I have shown here.

Frank

Frank is that the W&C brown skirting? Its beautiful!

BTW nice work on that holster!

[Frank]

Thanks very much. Yes, that is the W/C brown skirting leather.

[Colt Hammerless]

That is a wonderful brown Frank! I have a couple of swatches of the different drum dyed leathers from W&C. I neatsfoot oiled it to see how it looked, but it didn't come out that dark, more of a light brown. This was a swatch from last year. I picked up another swatch a month ago, and it does seem a bit darker now. Curious as to what you're doing to darken it. Neatsfoot oil, or something else, maybe a combination? I bought a Chestnut belly from them in order to have some scrap leather for patterning, as well as to check out that color. Probably should have gotten a brown one too.

Paul

[Frank]

Paul,

Once I oil (mixture of neatsfoot and U-82 Saddlers oil), I use Bag Kote as a finish and the bag kote really helps to darken the leather. Tan kote will cause it to be a lighter shade of brown than bag kote.

Frank

[George B]

Hi Paul, I have been using W&C drum dyed for 3 years and have had mostly great results with it. Just this morning I dip dyed 3 carry belts in black. Ran out of useable leather in drum dyed black but had a side of W&C natural. OMG what a mess! The gloves had holes in 2 fingers and now I'm sportin' a couple of black dyed fingers. I ordered 3 sides right after, one medium brown and 2 in black, it is so much easier and saves a bunch of time. Plus I get to go to town without any fingers lookin' like I didn't wash well.

[Frank]

Every time I get an order for anything in black, I start to cringe and get the cold sweats. I have no idea why people would ruin a good project with that color!