whiteeugene Report post Posted March 4, 2013 Hi everyone I have kind of a new guy sewing question. I was sewing some holsters together with my sewing machine and am having a problem with how the beginning and ending stitches look; I put a larger tread on the top and bottom 230 on top and 160 on the bottom I think and a size 24 needle. When I do my back stitch to lock the tread in looks kind of bunched up same thing at the end. Is there another way to lock the tread in so it won’t unravel besides back stitching? Thanks Doug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra Steve Report post Posted March 5, 2013 (edited) Hi Doug. I think you have some of your numbers incorrect regarding the thread size. The most popular size thread for sewing holsters is a 277 on top and either a 277 or 207 on the bottom. The #24 needle should be fine, but you may have to go to a #25. Try this combination and see if it helps. Thanks, Steve Edited March 5, 2013 by Cobra Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whiteeugene Report post Posted March 5, 2013 Hi Doug. I think you have some of your numbers incorrect regarding the thread size. The most popular size thread for sewing holsters is a 277 on top and either a 277 or 207 on the bottom. The #24 needle should be fine, but you may have to go to a #25. Try this combination and see if it helps. Thanks, Steve Thanks Steve I'll try some 277 on top and 207 on the bottom with a size 24 needle, I looked at some other folks work and it looks like if you use a machine you have to run a double stitch starting and stopping to lock the tread in. I just wasn't sure what was the correct way to lock the stitches in. Thanks Doug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted March 5, 2013 If you starting at a buckle, set your foot down 3 or 4 stitches length away stitch in reverse the 3 or 4 stitches and come forward. When you get to the other end sew up as close as you can to the buckle and then reverse 3 or 4 stitches and your done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whiteeugene Report post Posted March 6, 2013 If you starting at a buckle, set your foot down 3 or 4 stitches length away stitch in reverse the 3 or 4 stitches and come forward. When you get to the other end sew up as close as you can to the buckle and then reverse 3 or 4 stitches and your done. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerF Report post Posted March 12, 2013 Doug, Also make sure when you compleat your first back stitch that the theard is tight in the starting hole and has'nt pulled though eather the top or bottom. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeffGC Report post Posted March 12, 2013 What is the advantage of using a thinner thread (207) from the bobbin? I've been using 277 on both, for holsters. Jeff C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted March 15, 2013 Most people do it just because you can fit more thread on the bobbin. I used to do it with my Boss for two reasons, one, it was easier to just pull some 207 off of the thread stand from my Consew and wind the bobbin that way and two, I also found that the back side looked a little better so I kept doing it that way. For the most part now though I use the same top and bottom, there are occasions when Ill use a smaller thread on the bottom but not to much really. What is the advantage of using a thinner thread (207) from the bobbin? I've been using 277 on both, for holsters. Jeff C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted March 15, 2013 What is the advantage of using a thinner thread (207) from the bobbin? I've been using 277 on both, for holsters. Jeff C. Also depends on the maximum size thread your bobbin will take. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites