Andalusiangirl Report post Posted March 8, 2013 Hi I've been attempting my first leather making ever - making 3 belts for myself and family... They are really rough and I can see where I need improvement but my main problem is how do I stop the water based dye from running?! I've oiled (neatsfoot) and then finished the belts with Acrylic Resolene but I noticed that it still runs quite badly... The black one (pro oil dye) doesn't but the red and blue does. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted March 8, 2013 Your work looks good from what I could see, . . . but I guess I am confused, . . . what do you mean when you say it is "running"? In the pictures, I see dark streaks on the brown and the red belts, . . . and I would guess they may have come from the resolene, . . . if you did the black belt first. One thing you have to do with any dye, . . . buff the dried object like crazy. I use an old wash cloth or piece of an old bath towel, . . . they work really well for that. Also, . . . keep one small container of resolene for black, . . . don't use it on any other color. You also need to make sure you water resolene down, I have never been successful with using it full strength. I use it at 50% strength, . . . 1/2 water & 1/2 resolene. Other than that, . . . resolene dries clear, although it darkens whatever dye you had on the item. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andalusiangirl Report post Posted March 8, 2013 Your work looks good from what I could see, . . . but I guess I am confused, . . . what do you mean when you say it is "running"? In the pictures, I see dark streaks on the brown and the red belts, . . . and I would guess they may have come from the resolene, . . . if you did the black belt first. One thing you have to do with any dye, . . . buff the dried object like crazy. I use an old wash cloth or piece of an old bath towel, . . . they work really well for that. Also, . . . keep one small container of resolene for black, . . . don't use it on any other color. You also need to make sure you water resolene down, I have never been successful with using it full strength. I use it at 50% strength, . . . 1/2 water & 1/2 resolene. Other than that, . . . resolene dries clear, although it darkens whatever dye you had on the item. May God bless, Dwight Thank you, that's very helpful! By 'running' I mean the dye still runs or comes off to the touch or when wet. I was wondering if there's a better finish to lock in the colour? Or is the buffering the secret? That brown streaky effect I was going for wouldn't be permanent if buffed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted March 8, 2013 Thank you, that's very helpful! By 'running' I mean the dye still runs or comes off to the touch or when wet. I was wondering if there's a better finish to lock in the colour? Or is the buffering the secret? That brown streaky effect I was going for wouldn't be permanent if buffed after the dye dries, buff it. Any color you have on will remain (your streaks you're looking for) because dye soaks into the leather. All buffing does is remove the left over pigmentation that's sitting on top of the leather. This is what's coming off on you. Resolene is an EXCELLENT finish, but you must apply at least 2, if not 3 - 4 LIGHT coats of it at a 50/50 mix. After thy dye dries for several hours and you have no more color coming off when you're buffing it, apply the first coat and let it sit for several more hours. Then, apply another light coat and let it sit for several hours again. Once that's dry, buff it again with a little bit of neatsfoot on your rag. The oil will aid in pulling up any dye that's still able to come through the Resolene. If it's still coming off, buff the oil off with a clean rag, then apply another coat of Resolene and test again once it's dry. Usually I can get by with no more than 3 if I mixed it right. If I'm antiquing, I do a little more just to make sure it's not going to let any through (though I do get in a hurry sometimes and pay for it later). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andalusiangirl Report post Posted March 8, 2013 after the dye dries, buff it. Any color you have on will remain (your streaks you're looking for) because dye soaks into the leather. All buffing does is remove the left over pigmentation that's sitting on top of the leather. This is what's coming off on you. Resolene is an EXCELLENT finish, but you must apply at least 2, if not 3 - 4 LIGHT coats of it at a 50/50 mix. After thy dye dries for several hours and you have no more color coming off when you're buffing it, apply the first coat and let it sit for several more hours. Then, apply another light coat and let it sit for several hours again. Once that's dry, buff it again with a little bit of neatsfoot on your rag. The oil will aid in pulling up any dye that's still able to come through the Resolene. If it's still coming off, buff the oil off with a clean rag, then apply another coat of Resolene and test again once it's dry. Usually I can get by with no more than 3 if I mixed it right. If I'm antiquing, I do a little more just to make sure it's not going to let any through (though I do get in a hurry sometimes and pay for it later). Thank you, I'll get to it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted March 9, 2013 I've been attempting my first leather making ever -how do I stop the water based dye from running?! Here is probably the root of the problem. The tandy pro-water stains work fantastically, but if you're using 'eco-flo', many people have had issues with it. Especially if you oil over it. When you are able, try the regular alcohol (spirit dyes) or the oil dyes. And don't forget the buffing step. You might also consider either dip-dyeing, or spraying the dye...both will provide a more even coverage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites