Fiebings Oil Dye And Sponges

[TomG]

I ran into a weird problem recently and wondered if anyone can explain it.

When I was taught to dye my projects, the old time leatherworker i learned from used Fiebings spirit dyes and water to dilute to the shade he wanted. Worked well. He used as damp regular kitchen sponge (cellulose?).to apply it in a circular motion. So this is basically how I did my dying for a long time.

As I experimented and learned, I switched to denatured alcohol for diluting and really liked the better color control I get.

I have recently begun switching over to Fiebings oil dyes and am very happy with them. I also began doing either dip dying or using some foam sponge material I get from my day job... it's actually foam packing material..It works well for these small jobs.

Just this week, I picked up a couple of the cellulose sponges. I rinsed them in clear water and put them away until I needed them.

I used them a couple of times this week. The minute the oil dye hits them, they turn hard. I pre-dampend one with denatured alcohol and it turned hard. I never noticed this with the spirit dyes and they are supposed to be alcohol based as well. I dampened one with water and it was nice and soft. Until I put the oil dye on.... then hard.

Has anyone run into this?

Other than airbrush or daubers, what do you folks use to apply your dye?

Tom

[TomG]

And I just tried it with full strength spirit dye and it did the same thing.

Are there different types of "kitchen" sponge?

Tom

[dirtclod]

Yes their are different types of sponges. I have some that stay soft all the time and others that get after they have been wet and dried get hard. I have no ideal what they are made from. To answer the other question some times i use pieces of real sheep skin that have been trimmed real close to dye with. Never tried to dye with a sponge of any kind.

[SooperJake]

Why not try using a piece of natural sponge? You are obviously having a chemical reaction with the synthetic sponge, which is petroleum based in its manufacture.

For one color dying I dip dye now. Airbrush works good too, but is a little too light an application for my tastes.

Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes applies pretty good with a dauber. Several successive applications (while still wet) help even out the color. Remember to let it dry completely before you fiddle with it. Wet leather always looks darker, I remind myself all the time to be more patient when dying, so that I see the real, dried color first, before I add another coat. Pro Oil Saddle Tan is terrible dark when first applied, but lightens up a lot after drying. I just used it for the first time the other day, and really like that color.

For water based dyes I have been using a Turtlewax yellow car sponge, or a no-name equivalent which is half the price. I keep a piece for each color in a plastic lidded container so they are always just a tad damp. So far no mold after 3 or 4 months. I rinse them good before I put them away.

[Cyberthrasher]

I usually use my airbrush or a regular old fashioned brush. If I have a large area I can cover with one color or if I'm block dying, the old paper towel or rag works well too. The only time I ever use sponges is when I do my edging and I use those foam brushes from the art store. Those do get hard on me, but ONLY when I leave them sitting out. Doesn't take much to get them softened back up again and ready to go. Other than that, I also use the moist sponge to apply Resolene with no problems. If it helps, I go to the dollar store and get a 10 pack of sponges that seem to work perfectly. There's another crafter in the Southern states that I know and he uses the exact same sponges for dying all the time with no problems.

[TomG]

Why not try using a piece of natural sponge? You are obviously having a chemical reaction with the synthetic sponge, which is petroleum based in its manufacture.

For one color dying I dip dye now. Airbrush works good too, but is a little too light an application for my tastes.

Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes applies pretty good with a dauber. Several successive applications (while still wet) help even out the color. Remember to let it dry completely before you fiddle with it. Wet leather always looks darker, I remind myself all the time to be more patient when dying, so that I see the real, dried color first, before I add another coat. Pro Oil Saddle Tan is terrible dark when first applied, but lightens up a lot after drying. I just used it for the first time the other day, and really like that color.

For water based dyes I have been using a Turtlewax yellow car sponge, or a no-name equivalent which is half the price. I keep a piece for each color in a plastic lidded container so they are always just a tad damp. So far no mold after 3 or 4 months. I rinse them good before I put them away.

Never thought of the natural sponge. I'll pick one up today. I don't use a dauber because it just holds so much dye, that I found it hard to get a light coat without bleeding off a bunch of the dye it holds onto a piece of paper or a piece of scrap... too wasteful.

Yes, I'm really familiar with the lightening effect of the dyes. I think it might be one of the hardest things for newbies to learn... patience....

Saddle Tan oil dye is one of my favorites. I can finish it with either brown or neutral leather balm depending on if I want to keep it light or darken it slightly.

I have an airbrush, but only use it when I have a larger piece to dye.

[steadybrook]

Try tan bark shearling.

[goldenstonebazaar]

Cheap synthetic bath foam sponges work, some brands better than others, even color sometimes matters.

[TomG]

I found that the loose, porous kitchen sponges I've gotten lately, harden when the dye get on them.

I now use the large yellow close-cell sponges from Home Depot. They have them in the paint section and the tile flooring section.

Cut to the size needed.

Tom

[Cyberthrasher]

I found that the loose, porous kitchen sponges I've gotten lately, harden when the dye get on them.

I now use the large yellow close-cell sponges from Home Depot. They have them in the paint section and the tile flooring section.

Cut to the size needed.

Tom

How much do those run?

I've been using dollar store sponges for most of my sponging needs. It's a 10 pack for $1 and I cut them up into 8 pieces - 80 applicators for $1. But, they degrade pretty quick too. One tip for you, if you have to use those sponges again, keep them in a ziplock snack bag. They maintain their moisture and require less dye to reload. I also do it just because I don't want to get dye everywhere from leaving it somewhere.