What Machine For Dual Duties?

[Leila]

Hello, I am a seamstress with many years under my belt in garment sewing. But I'm new to leather, and I am in need of an industrial machine that is good with medium weight smooth finish lamb, elk, and calf leathers for handbags. But that I can also sew a medium weight cotton or even satin on with just switching out foot, needle, and thread. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!

[Wizcrafts]

Perhaps a needle feed industrial machine, equipped with an accessory roller foot, will do the soft leather work. Then, switch back to a standard steel foot for the satin and broadcloth.

A walking foot machine will eat up the satin and light fabrics. A straight stitch machine will not feed the leather properly, unless it is converted into a roller foot system machine.

A needle feed machine keeps the layers together as the needle pulls the material for each stitch. These machines must have a presser foot with a long slot down the middle, to allow the needle to move forward and backward.

Juki makes great needle feed machines.

[Leila]

Wow thanks for the quick response! And for the helpful info! I only need the machine to handle up to 4 thickness's of the soft leather, and I would imagine that wouldn't be a problem. *Also what gage thread do you reccomend for such leathers?

And when buying needles for the needle feed machines, is it similar to the home? As in would I just look for a medium gage leather needle? Thanks so much! I really appreciate all your knowledge on such a vast subject!

[Wizcrafts]

Wow thanks for the quick response! And for the helpful info! I only need the machine to handle up to 4 thickness's of the soft leather, and I would imagine that wouldn't be a problem. *Also what gage thread do you reccomend for such leathers?

And when buying needles for the needle feed machines, is it similar to the home? As in would I just look for a medium gage leather needle? Thanks so much! I really appreciate all your knowledge on such a vast subject!

Industrial sewing machines do not use home style needles. Industrial needles are totally round at the top, whereas home needles have a flat side to align them inside the needle bar. You must read how to properly align the eye and scarf of the needle and make sure the top is fully seated in the bar.

Needle size depends on thread size, top and bottom. Your soft leather may be fine if sewn with #69 or #92 bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread. You should use a leather point needles only for leather. Use a #16 or #18 needle with #69 thread, or a #18, #19, or #20 needle with #92 thread (same sizes on top and bobbin).

The needle "system" is determined by the make and model of the machine you buy. The system is determined by several factors involving the diameter of the upper shank, length from shank top to top of eye, length of eye opening, and overall length. There are also different types of leather points. First get your machine, then worry about needles, bobbins and cases and oil.

Four thicknesses at what thickness per layer? One sixteenth of an inch? 3/32 inch? If the total thickness exceeds 5/16 inch, some non-walking foot machines may not handle it well, if at all. It would be best to find a machine for sale and take your leather there, to see how it handles your work. You may have several disappointments before you find the right machine.

[Leila]

Thank You! I looked into a Juki DLN-5410N single needle, needle feed machine, new it runs around $2000. Hoping I can find some used models. I live in Los Angeles so I feel like there should be some options out there for me.

The leather I'm using is about 1/16" thick single layer, so 1/4" thick should be about the thickest I would need to go, so it sounds like the Juki needle feed machine could work fine, but yes I will absolutely be bringing sample of fabrics with me to look at the machines. If you know any reputable used sewing machine dealers down here, or a good sorce for me to find one I would love to know. As I'm sure you know there are a lot of husslers in the business:)

[Wizcrafts]

Thank You! I looked into a Juki DLN-5410N single needle, needle feed machine, new it runs around $2000. Hoping I can find some used models. I live in Los Angeles so I feel like there should be some options out there for me.

The leather I'm using is about 1/16" thick single layer, so 1/4" thick should be about the thickest I would need to go, so it sounds like the Juki needle feed machine could work fine, but yes I will absolutely be bringing sample of fabrics with me to look at the machines. If you know any reputable used sewing machine dealers down here, or a good sorce for me to find one I would love to know. As I'm sure you know there are a lot of husslers in the business:)

Leather Machine Company (Cobra brand sewing machines), one of our supporting dealers, is located in California. They often have used machines in stock, or know where to get them. Their toll free number is 866-962-9880.

For 1/4 inch stack of leather, you will probably need to use #92 (Tex 90) thread, with a #20 needle. Make sure that whatever machine you look at, that it can handle that size thread and needle (read the specs).

[rcsaddles]

I have an Adler 069 flatbed machine I am looking to sell. I use it for tarp and canvas work as well as leather. In fact, I stitched a full 1/2 inch thick leather with it just to see how much it would do. I put a new Servo motor on it a couple of years ago but probably have not used it 15 hours since then. I really don't use it a lot.

If interested you can email me at rcsaddles@yahoo.com or pm me here.

[Wizcrafts]

I have an Adler 069 flatbed machine I am looking to sell. I use it for tarp and canvas work as well as leather. In fact, I stitched a full 1/2 inch thick leather with it just to see how much it would do. I put a new Servo motor on it a couple of years ago but probably have not used it 15 hours since then. I really don't use it a lot.

If interested you can email me at rcsaddles@yahoo.com or pm me here.

Why don't you advertise it for sale in the Marketplace section of the forum, under Sewing Machinery

Edited March 22, 2013 by Wizcrafts

[gottaknow]

Thank You! I looked into a Juki DLN-5410N single needle, needle feed machine, new it runs around $2000. Hoping I can find some used models. I live in Los Angeles so I feel like there should be some options out there for me.

The leather I'm using is about 1/16" thick single layer, so 1/4" thick should be about the thickest I would need to go, so it sounds like the Juki needle feed machine could work fine, but yes I will absolutely be bringing sample of fabrics with me to look at the machines. If you know any reputable used sewing machine dealers down here, or a good sorce for me to find one I would love to know. As I'm sure you know there are a lot of husslers in the business:)

I have at least 20 of the Juki 5410's in service in the factory. They are a good machine for the price. Be aware there is a problem with the oil pump tube that runs from the submerged pump up to the top shaft. In at least half of my machines, this tube was too short from the factory and ironicaly rubs against the shaft that drives the oil pump. The result is over time the tube gets a hole in it and the top shaft no longer receives any oil. It's an easy repair, but if the machine has been run in a factory, there's a risk the top shaft hasn't been getting oil. I had one machine that seized a bearing and burned up the servo motor. On the plus size, we sew anything from two ply of lightweight Lycra up to 1/4" of heavy nylon webbing with basic adjustment.

Another older machine worth looking for is the 60's era Singer 281-22. It's a needle feed machine that sews lightweight fabric nicely as well as heavier. It's much more solid than the newer Juki's and they are inexpensive.

Regards, Eric

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks for that input Eric. I was hoping you would see this and respond.