cmantz Report post Posted March 25, 2013 So, I am making my first headstall...and then breast collar. Pieces are cut out for the headstall. I am using a 8 oz. bridle leather that does not require any stain or dye. I am planning on doubling the cheek pieces, the browband and possible the crown strap. The cheeks and browband will have a lightweight (2-3 oz) overlay on them with spots along the edge. So, what is the best order of attack? I am assuming I do in this order: glue bevel edges (not sure when to do this...before they are glued, after they are glued, before the edges are sanded, after sanding???) sand edges burnish edges condition stain edges sew apply overlay sew add spots add hardware Is this correct? I don't have to dye the leather for the above set but I am assuming if I do, I would dye the pieces after they are cut out and before they are glued, correct? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JJs Leatherworks Report post Posted March 26, 2013 Christine, Project sounds ambitioius. Doubled up 8 oz plus an overlay is going to give you pretty thick material for your cheek and browband. Where you have to double up the straps for buckles or other hardware to be attached with chicago screws or rivets, you will have lots of skiving to do to make it manageable. I seldom make headstalls with a total thickness of more than 12 oz, many are just single thickness 8 - 10 oz. Once your pieces are glued together, you will want to sand before doing the beveling of the edges (if your edges aren't even before you sand and you bevel first, as you sand, you lose some of the bevel). Many items, I do not sand until after they have been sewn, as sewing close to the edge with a machine will often cause small buldges in the edge by the needle holes and sanding afterwards, gives a nice smooth edge. Depending on the pattern and layout of your spots and proximity to your sew/stitch line, with the thickness of your finished straps, you may want to consider putting the spots on the top layer before assembly (will allow the prongs to clinch the material better). Not sure what is holding your overlay in place without seeing a pattern - will it be stitched as well? do the spots hold it in place? Just a few considerations for your headstall project. I hope I haven't added to your confusion. Some steps are cut and dried, but others, depending on the project can be altered. There is no one 100%correct order to do it. Looking forward to pictures when complete. JJ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cmantz Report post Posted March 26, 2013 JJ Wow...36 views and one response Thank you for that!!! I truly appreciate your offer to share some tips to me. It sometimes seems as if I am asking for the recipe for Bush's Baked Beans LOL!!! I know some of the more seasoned tack makers probably read it and thought "not this question AGAIN" but I did attempt to search the forum before I posted. Man...how I wish I could find a mentor. How nice would that be if you could just shot someone an email with the silly questions asked by most newbies? Edges....yeah, I can see now that I need to edge after I sand I edged the top pieces (cheeks and browband) and then glued them. Then I sanded them. I hadn't edged the back so did that after I sanded and that worked out much better. So today I learned...sand and then edge! As far as leather weights. A friend had a tack set that she bought from Heritage Leather when she was at the NFR and I used that as my "inspiration". From what I can tell they used two layers of 8oz leather and then had some hair-on overlay. The leather I am using seems to be fairly soft so hopefully it won't be too thick. The overlay will be glued and then sewn and then spots added to the edge so I will have to add the spots at the end. I have a Standard Rivet spot setter so hopefully they will stay in place pretty good. I will be happy to post pics when I am done. I need all the critiques I can get so I can learn and improve. Believe me, I am my biggest critic...but I suppose I am no different that most. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cmantz Report post Posted March 27, 2013 So, headstall is almost finished...just need to add the spots. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Josh Ashman Report post Posted March 27, 2013 That looks nice and your craftsmanship looks great. It's a whole different thing from the kind of tack I make and use but I'm sure you'll have a lot of demand from folks that are more stylish than me Good job, Josh Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cmantz Report post Posted March 27, 2013 Josh...this is for my daughter who is a barrel racer . It is going on her sorrel horse so I think it will look really good on her. Yeah...probably not going to sell to many like this to ropers, reiners, trail riders, etc.... LOL! Now personally I prefer a more traditional/functional style...but since I can't tool...or even draw as far as that is concerned...tooled leather is out of the question for me. It is funny because every time she gets a new horse she says "I think her color will be orange"...or blue...or turquoise...or red. My response is "what about her color being leather?" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JJs Leatherworks Report post Posted March 28, 2013 Christine, Turned out very nice. Congratulations! Where did you source that color of hair on material? What 'color' is the next horse going to be? JJ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cmantz Report post Posted March 28, 2013 JJ...that is actually not hair-on. It is "Dakota Side" from SLC. I bought a small piece (about 3 sq ft) a couple months ago and I loved the color. Looks great with the bridle leather I bought. So, I bought some more and it was totally different. Had a much more pronounced "crackle" effect on the surface and the colors were completely different (the second piece had a lot more turquoise in it). I like the color of the second piece but wasn't sure about that crackle surface holding up well especially for tack. In all my years of sewing, I understand dye lots but this wasn't even close. The only thing they could figure out is that the first piece I bought came from a corner. I just would have expected it to be a closer match since it is a man-made effect. Thankfully I have enough to make the breast collar and probably tie down from the piece I have. Here is a picture on her horse. Makes her look so pretty Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JinxedDream Report post Posted March 29, 2013 That is lovely! Not my style at all but barrel racers go crazy for that stuff. I'm starting my first headstall in a bit, when my leather order gets here from SLC. My friend wants a barcoo headstall. Aiming towards the trail and endurance market. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cmantz Report post Posted March 29, 2013 Need more input...here are some progress pictures of the matching breast collar. I am not super happy with the stitching on these but maybe I am being overly critical. I stitched the outer row of stitching first. Then I stitched the tabs back. Then applied the overlay and stitched that on. I think when I did the outer row of stitching I should NOT have stitched up the tabs and then when I did turn the tabs back and sewed those I wouldn't have been stitching over stitches. Thankfully some conchos will go on the tabs and help cover up that. Would love some feedback and any construction tips you would be willing to share. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Twisted B Report post Posted July 30, 2013 Great Job! I've been kicking around the idea of trying to make "bling" tack. My biggest setback is the fact that I don't have the proper sewing machine - and I've never worked with leather! I dont want to buy the supplies, and get everything cut then have no way to sew it up What kind of machine do you use? Do you feel it is adequate? I'd appreciate any advice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geneva Report post Posted July 31, 2013 A suggestion. Don' t sew the insert from the same stitch as the outside stitching. Does your machine have reverse? If it does not have reverse do not start to sew the insert on the same line as the the main stitching. Back stitch the insert about 3 or 4 stitches turn the piece around on the machine and finish sewing. You will end up with two distinct sewing lines and they will not run together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishful Report post Posted July 31, 2013 Looks real nice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cmantz Report post Posted July 31, 2013 Geneva...here was the problem on this first breastcollar (hence the ugliness of the back side)..I cut both the front and the liner and glued them together, Then I sanded the edges and sewed the outer edge when each piece was flat.. Then I added the center plate and sewed the tabs back, then attached the overlay. Definitely NOT the way I should have done it. The next set I did, I cut out the front pieces, finished the edges on the tabs and glued the tabs back. Then I glued on the piece for the back liner, stitched the outer edge, and then trimmed my liner...then sewed the overlay, finished the edges, etc. This gave it much better look from the back as the tabs are now sandwiched between the layers I am still so new! Thank goodness for help and advice that I received from so many! TwistedB...yeah...don't attempt this until you have a sewing machine. I have a boot repair guy in town that would sew my nosebands for me when I started out but honestly, there would be no way for him to sew tack sets as because it isn't something that you can put all together and then sew at once. As it is, my sewing machine is at home while all my other supplies are at the shop and that is a PAIN! As far as machines, I found a used Toro 3000 on this forum for a good price so I grabbed it FAST!! And it was an added bonus that it was relatively close to where we live so I didn't have to ship it or buy it without seeing it. The machine is adequate for my use. If I hadn't found this one and was buying new, I would get the longer arm. I have sewn all my life and this is MUCH different. And then factor in trying to learn about leather (which I also knew NOTHING about 8 months ago). I don't do this for a living...which is a good thing as I would probably starve. For the amount of time it takes to make these things, I don't make very much per hour that I put into these. Also, there is a lot of competition and such a HUGE range of craftsmanship. You see some really nice tack (Heritage for example) and then you see some GARBAGE!! I was at a barrel race and someone was selling sets really cheap and they looked really awful! 3/4 oz patterned leather on the top and probably 4/5 oz on the back and the tabs that weren't even sewn...just held back with conchos! And she was selling a ton of them. Sometimes I think customers don't appreciate the "extras" and just buy based on price. But I couldn't make tack like that and be proud to say that I made it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stef73433 Report post Posted December 28, 2013 I'm not much help because I'm novice too, but you can sure email me to bounce around questions and ideas. I'm skiing the same type of items you are. Stef73433@Yahoo.com I'm not much help because I'm novice too, but you can sure email me to bounce around questions and ideas. I'm doing the same type of items you are. Stef73433@Yahoo.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
