Biblethumper Report post Posted August 29, 2008 My first post so not even sure I'm doing it right. I recover old worn out, soft cover bibles, so it's a little bookbinding and a little leather working. My question is..Does anyone know how one would accomplish the textured look that "leather" bibles have. I know that most all cow and calf that I get at Tandy is veg tanned and smoothe. I am using the kip hide which is about 2oz. in weight. I assume that the leather that bible binders use is embossed with some type of a large embossing machine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael Sheldon Report post Posted August 29, 2008 Yup, you can buy it with the grain imprinted. Tandy sells their "mission grain" which I think would work very well for you. Siegel http://www.siegelofca.com/ also carries imprinted pattern leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Biblethumper Report post Posted August 29, 2008 Yup, you can buy it with the grain imprinted.Tandy sells their "mission grain" which I think would work very well for you. Siegel http://www.siegelofca.com/ also carries imprinted pattern leather. Thanks. I was kind of wondering if anyone had a technique to making somekind of grain so I can continue to use the same 2 oz kip hide since I dye my pieces. But thanks again; I will check into the mission grain. You can see what I've done at www.biblerestorations.com It's a free site I made just to post pics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wolfsax Report post Posted August 29, 2008 I saw a technique/tutorial somewhere once about how to get a grained look. Going from memory, mind you, but I think the technique involved wetting the leather, then rolling it up multiple times in multiple directions to give it a texture. I think it was then stained to the new creases got an old antiqued look. Maybe someone else can give you more details. If not, well, scrap leather and experimenting is always fun :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted August 29, 2008 WOLFSAX YOU ARE 100% RIGHT........ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wolfsax Report post Posted August 30, 2008 WOLFSAX YOU ARE 100% RIGHT........ Whoo Hoo! Love it when I remember something correctly :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Biblethumper Report post Posted August 30, 2008 Whoo Hoo! Love it when I remember something correctly :D Thank you very much. I will try it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barra Report post Posted August 31, 2008 (edited) Any good to you??? Barra http://www.archive.org/stream/decorationofleat00rcrich Edited August 31, 2008 by barra Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davy Report post Posted September 14, 2008 Ok Mr Biblethumper . I think the texture you are after is whats known as a boxed or boarded finish . You have to be aware that the different cuts of leather respond in different ways and various degrees when trying to achieve this effect by hand . The butt leather is always the prime cut then the back , shoulders , neck , belly (yuk ) . This effect done by hand is achieved by whats known as 'breaking' the leather , sometimes also called worming (although Ive only heard it called that a coupla times ). This is done , as someone said earlier by rolling the leather back on itself in different directions (usually at 90 degrees)thereby breaking (loosening) the structure of the leather , as when you buy it , it is in a compressed state . Belly leather breaks very easily , stretches and get big gaps betweenthe texture lines . wheras butt leather which is tougher and more compact will give you finer close texture lines and sometimes with butt its hard to get them at all . sometimes you will get lines one way but hardly at all the other . I found the best way for me is not roll too much , if at all on carved or embossed areas . You can also wait until you have alteady antiqued it and before you rubb off the antique you roll it . Try just rolling around the outside edges and when rubbing off the antique dont take as much off . Experiment ! Lines of tightness should be observed when working with thinner softer cuts . Apologies if some of the terms I use are unfamiliar , Australian terms and spelling are sometimes different in other countries . Hope some of this has helped . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites