From Dye To Finish Help

[Aldridge]

I am very new at this craft and a new member of Leatherworker.net. I apologize if this question has been asked before. My problem is getting the steps from the dye to finish in the correct order. I have been making simple items so far such as small keychains and bracelets using 4-5oz veg tanned leather. My items always end up hard as a rock. I've tried very small amounts of Febings oil dye as well as small amounts of resoline. Still ends up very stiff. I've tried softening the leather with some Neetsfoot oil but then it turns out to look and feel more like a piece of rubber than leather. Where am I going wrong? My steps are as follows:

Febings Oil Dye

Let Dry

Buff

Acrylic Resoline

Let Dry

Buff

Neetsfoot Oil

Let Dry

Buff

Please tell me if this is not the correct order. I was told by a Tandy salesperson to apply the Neetsfoot AFTER I apply the resoline. Is this true? This post may seem like a lot of questions all at once but I would be very appreciative if someone can give me their advice on this. Thanks so much!

[electrathon]

You have to dye before you put on your sealer. Whoever told you to put it on after is confused.

[Aldridge]

Electrathon,

Thank you for your response. The dye is my first step. She told me to apply the Neetsfoot Oil after I apply the sealer. I've always thought the sealer was always the last step.

[electrathon]

The dye is a little harsh on the leather. The oil helps rejuvinate it. If you put oil on over the sealer you will not have any penitration, it would do nothing but make it oily.

Drying overnight between steps is good.

[stingray4540]

I'm still trying to nail down a good process myself, so take this with a grain of salt, as it is only from my research on this website and not actual experience.

It seems the "best" way is to

Carve

Oil

Dye

Finish

Optional: antique, then one more finish coat.

I have some projects that are coming to this step, so I plan to experiment with that process on some scrap. My only concern is that the oil before dye will affect the color. I may also substitute the oil for an oil/wax mixture I use to better waterproof the leather, but I am not sure how the Finish(resolene or lacquer) will adhere to the wax/oil.

Looks like I have some experimenting to do...

[Tina]

I use the oil after dying (I'm using spirit dye) to rejuvenate the leather again...

carve

dye/paint

oil (let it sit for 24 hours)

resist - 2 layers (let it sit for another 24 hours)

antiquing (optional)

top coat

Edited March 28, 2013 by Tina

[Cyberthrasher]

I may also substitute the oil for an oil/wax mixture I use to better waterproof the leather, but I am not sure how the Finish(resolene or lacquer) will adhere to the wax/oil.

You can use a product like that as a FINAL step. Think about it, what good is the wax going to do when it's sitting under an acrylic finish? The oil is used to condition the leather, the wax is used to offer water resistance to the very top layer.

As far as neatsfoot oil goes, it will darken things, so if you're using a lighter color dye, be sure to either apply it lightly, or apply it from the flesh side of the leather. This will also help to keep from moving pigment around after dying. This is really important for me when I have natural portions of my leather surrounded by stuff like black.

My general methods:

carve

dye

buff,buff,buff

oil

finish

antique

finish

wax/oil conditioner (Montana Pitch Blend is my favorite)

There are some adjustments that I make if I'm airbrushing, but I have a feeling that may confuse the issue here. Also, in regards to oiling after finishing - I have found that oil WILL penetrate Resolene, but it takes a really long time. This is why it's a water resistant finish and not water proof. Your standard oiling step should always be done before applying the finish. After all of my finishing, I apply my Montana Pitch Blend and let it sit over night. By morning the oil in the product has soaked through the finish and left the wax on top. Then I just buff up any extra and send it on its way.

[stingray4540]

You can use a product like that as a FINAL step. Think about it, what good is the wax going to do when it's sitting under an acrylic finish? The oil is used to condition the leather, the wax is used to offer water resistance to the very top layer.

I was thinking more along the lines of it being backup to the finish, since it's only water "resistant", and may wear off over time?

I was planning on using it as the last layer as well.

Idk, maybe it won't work? Maybe it will? My biggest concern is that dye and lacquer won't adhere to yhe wax.

[Cyberthrasher]

I was thinking more along the lines of it being backup to the finish, since it's only water "resistant", and may wear off over time?

I was planning on using it as the last layer as well.

Idk, maybe it won't work? Maybe it will? My biggest concern is that dye and lacquer won't adhere to yhe wax.

If you're planning on using it as the last layer, then you don't have to worry about anything adhering to it, because all the dye and lacquer will be UNDER the wax/oil mixture. When i say the last layer, it is the very last layer. At the point I put that on, everything is done and ready to go out the door. Basically you're doing the "maintenance" step that your customers should be doing on occasion. That's another reason I prefer the pre-made conditioner. It's something that I can instruct them to use as well so that I know they'll have a good product to use that won't react any differently then what I use on it.

http://www.montanapitchblend.com/our-products.html

[stingray4540]

I see, so the idea is to maintain the top layer, so the lacquer finish never gets too exposed to wear?