Finishing A Leather Armguard?

[MTH]

So I reached a point with my 'messing around with leather hobby' that someone wants to pay me for a leather armguard.

Hooray for me.

Let my OCD kick into high gear!

I've gone through pages and pages of the forum looking for advice on finishing projects and it seems that the consensus is different projects require different finishing techniques. If there's a link to an appropriate answer for this question I haven't found it yet and I apologize if this has been answered before.

Right. So, considering the amount of sweat (and possibly rain) this piece of (tooled, vegtan, ecoflow all-in-oned and super sheened) leather is going to come into contact with I'd like to know your opinions on how to finish it so that it will last the longest both in the sun and with the sweat. Oh yeah, and the rough side will be against the skin.

Thanks!

[TwinOaks]

Since you have used the acrylic bases on everything, resolene isprobably going to be your best option...preferably sprayed on.. I don't know how well the leather will take it because of all the acrylics already on the leather, but Sno-Seal is a very good water repellent. As far as color fastness....no way to tell. Some of the eco- products hold up well in direct sunlight, some of them don't. You'll just have to see which.

[MTH]

Thanks so much for the quick reply.

I take from the lack of other responses that your advice is spot on ~ I really appreciate it - thank you.

[Dwight]

Resolene is as stated, probably your best bet. I've never applied it over sheen, . . . so I cannot vouch for that.

I use resolene on the vast majority of all holsters I make, . . . they become water "resistant" and Resolene has a UV blocker, . . . negating any undue influence from the sun's rays.

I cut it 50/50 with water, . . . apply it with a bristle brush, . . . brush it on, . . . left / right / up / down , . . . first brush up a slight lather, . . . then brush out the bubbles, . . . makes a beautiful finish.

When you finish brushing, . . . hang it in a warm place to dry and leave it alone for about 20 to 24 hours.

May God bless,

Dwight

[MTH]

Thanks Dwight~

I appreciate the technique tip. In many of the responses to various people's questions, the most basic aspects if technique are left out as if obvious and the newbies like myself are left to experiment. Thanks for the clarity. This is not meant as any kind of slight against TwinOaks suggestion, I just didn't have the knowledge to ask the right questions.

I'll get right on it!

[TwinOaks]

No offense taken at all...and you're right, I did make the presumption on technique. Although my method is different...I more or less follow the bottle directions and apply with a sponge. But the results are the same - a long wearing water resistant finish that looks good.

[MTH]

Thanks again TwinOaks!

This is the kind of conversation that reminds me to be as specific as possible ~ especially when people are so giving as they are on these forums.

The stuff comes with directions?

Ha!

None of the eco stuff that I have has any directions on it.

It's been a bit frustrating.

Thanks again!

[stingray4540]

Well, my experience with ecofoofoo color fastness has been terrible. Lets hope your experience doesn't match mine!

I've only done one armguard that was tooled to date, but it was not dyed, just Montana pitch blend. This is my wife's. I have an untooled guard that is finished similarly. It's been 2years with no retouch of the finish and just late last year on a particularly long hot day, I noticed a spot on hers that had absorbed enough sweat to discolor it. But, being undyed, you can't tell now that it's dry.

From my research it seems resolene or lacquer is the finish of choice for products that see similar wear, such as holsters, belts, etc.

I'm currently working on a tooled armguard for myself, and this is the finish I plan to use:

Carve

Lightly oil w/neatsfoot

Dye

Buff off excess dye

Spay on deft brushing lacquer(resolene should work just as well?)

Wool/brush on 2nd light lacquer layer

Antique paste

2more lacquer coats using spray then brush method.

Hand rub on some Montana pitch blend(or any wax finish like sno-seal) this will be reapplied every season or as needed.

So far my test piece is coming along nicely! But I have no real world experience to report, sorry. Only time will tell how mine holds up.

One thing to consider, archers usually don't spend a lot of time in the rain so I would worry mostly about the sweat.

Because of this, I am planning on using a replaceable wool liner on mine, and may consider adding one to my wife's.

P.S. pics or GTFO!

Edited March 31, 2013 by stingray4540

[MTH]

Hey Stingray ~

Thanks so much for the clarity!

I have similar concerns about the color fastness.

We are in SW Florida and shoot outside all year, including rainy season. And while we don't go out during the downpours we might get surprised by one or sometimes sit one out and hit the range shortly thereafter. Water protection is at least a minor but present concern.

I'll post some pics in a couple of days.

Thanks again!

[stingray4540]

Florida, I see!

I also forgot about compound archers and their plastic veins. Don't see much of us trad guys in the rain, unless we're actually hunting.

At any rate, I think any finish that can hold up to being pressed against a sweaty arm should handle most rain just fine.

Hopefully someone will chime in on how their finish has held up after a couple years of use in similar conditions.

Anyone have any long term use reports on the finish you used on a wallet, holster, or armguard?

[TwinOaks]

I used resolene on a leatherman case that was EDC for a little over 4 years...subjected to an electrician's life, and frequent battering in an aerial bucket, as well as other knocks and bangs....

[stingray4540]

That's great!

Maybe we should start a picture thread where people can post any work that is >2yrs old, and list what use its seen, and there finishing process.

[MTH]

That's brilliant!