Need An Experienced Eye

[Paulr]

I just started doing some leather carving and could use some advice. I'm not looking at the construction of this as a whole just the carving and dyeing.

http://media-cache-e...2483ad68d42.jpg

It looks like the whole back ground area in this was gone over with a background tool. Am i right in guessing this? What would be my best option for the yellow parts on this? When i was looking at yellows at tandy and online the all looked too yellow or like they are not doing much more then adding a slight yellow tint to the leather. Any advice would be a great help. Like i said not trying to make the armor its self. I just like how the designs turned out on them.

[immiketoo]

Yep, its backgrounded. The yellow Fiebings makes can give you that color with some help. The finish or mixing the dye would work. Angelus might make that exact color too.

[shtoink]

I would be inclined to think that it may have been laser engraved with the consistency of the background texture. Also looking at the very precise symmetry and curvature on the outside of the design, it looks computer controlled. If you follow that up with looking at the areas that are beveled within the pattern, there is some inconsistency to the curves and the level of beveling. It's subtle, but still not quite the same as the exterior of the pattern. Specifically the spirals near the top of each leg.

The texture of the background looks like the grain was removed from the surface, but it does not look like it was done by hand sanding or a dremel type tool.

Taking all that into account, it looks like it was most likely laser engraved with other aspects added in afterwards. This isn't to say that there aren't those who could pull this off, just that it was the most likely.

[Paulr]

thank you. i had never looked at angelus dyes before. I have only used fiebings and eco-flow. Are they comparable to fiebings? might be worth a try.

If it was laser engraved do you think that doing large areas with a background tool are going to end up looking odd? i Have never tried it on a large space like that.

[Cyberthrasher]

Maybe it's my sceen or something, but I see Saddle Tan there. Actually, I've even done one that was "yellow" full strength that came out like that with a little oil.

[mikesmith648]

It does not look dyed to me , but more like the saddle tan antique like Cyber said

[Cyberthrasher]

My photo kind of sucks, but this is the layered yellow I did. Piled it on nice and thick because I was out of Saddle Tan at the time. This is the Pro Oil Dye.

[dragonspit]

_{Agree with cyberthrasher. this looks like to me the "yellow" is standard veg tan, if this is older, that could simply be natural color ages, and it will do that. Could be staddle tan as well, if not ages leather. You would apply the saddle tan on the raised area, you would put a protective coat on that, then you would dye the background. I dont agree that this is digitally applied or lasered, I have seen plenty of folks here that are plenty good enough to get that look by hand. my opinion only.}

[Paulr]

so you think its just the saddle tan dye or saddle tan with yellow dye over top? That guitar strap looks great. Is it just multiple layers of yellow to make it darker? Sorry for all the questions i just have no experience with anything outside of one flat color. Thanks for the help.

[Cyberthrasher]

yeah, I'd say it's just saddle tan. You'd have to experiment to get the right color since it may be thinned a bit. The guitar strap is a few coats of straight yellow, which happened to make it dark like saddle tan.

[Paulr]

what would you guys recommend for the protective coat? It seems like the saddle tan comes in fiebing oil or the eco flow. I have been reading the water based run/smear so it would seem the oil would be the way to go.

[Cyberthrasher]

Fiebing's Pro Oil is all I use. I usually use resolene to finish things. But, resolene (or any other "finish") WILL NOT resist dye, so if you wanted to dye the background, you'd either have to carefully brush it or use a masking solution over the dyed tooling. I have good results with Woodland Scenics liquid latex.

[Paulr]

I noticed the oils only seem to come in a few colors. Does resolene work with spirit and water dyes too?

[NVLeatherWorx]

The backgrounding is done with matting tools, not a backgrounder. There is no laser engraving at all on this project, there are several people who are capable of achieving a consistent impression such as this, isn't very difficult. The finishing is a medium brown dye (most likely oil dye), and the Celtic design elements are either a Sheridan Brown or tinted Saddle Tan stain or antique paste finish. The best products to use are the Fiebing's line and don't just rely on your local Tandy store for availability. You can also purchase directly from Fiebing via their website and you will most likely find that their prices are less than you would be typically paying retail.

[Paulr]

i was looking at matting tool and i came up with 2 kinds. One has a checkered look and seems like a larger backgrounder. The other gives a bubbled look. Not really sure which one youre referring to. Thanks for pointing out their site. I had only ever seen a few colors in the oil. Sorry to keep bombarding you guys with question, but its been a huge help.

[dirtclod]

The tan part maybe just a light oil finish. I've used the regular ole spirit dye for years and never had a problem with it, you can thin it with denatured alcohol. Not sure it works with oil dye.

[Cyberthrasher]

Not sure it works with oil dye.

Works perfect. I actually just use plain old Isopropyl. I've heard warnings about it, but I've never had a problem and I've never gotten a straight answer on why it shouldn't be used. It's quite a bit cheaper then denatured and doesn't have as much fumes.

[NVLeatherWorx]

The pebble design is a newer tool and I use it frequently. I have all three of the stamps for the set as they each have a place for use. The smallest is used to get up close to the beveled and cut edges as well as in all of the tight or small areas. The medium sized tool gives you the ability to handle the larger areas and the largest stamp is for the main parts. Key here with these types of stamps is to ensure plenty of overlap and don't worry if about how much overlap. The final appearance is always very clear and clean. For those areas that look like they are raised a little, just use the large stamp on them to even out the look. Make sure that the leather is on the drier side of the moisture content so that you don't get the mushy look or feel.

Regarding the dyes, stains and finishes: If you want to use the oil based versions, go for it. If you use the regular spirit dyes (which I use for all of my color detail work) give it a final finish of Neatsfoot oil. I also use the antique paste finishes (it is an excellent stain) but if you are using in a resisted technique or over full color details you will want to first protect those areas with a leather lacquer (Springfield Leather sells one that is just like the original Neat-Lac I used to use) as today's acrylic finishes don't work with spirit and oil based liquids. The acrylic is a great finishing coating on all finishes but only works as a resist for the water based products.

If you want to learn more about how to blend and mix for custom colors there are books on this very topic. There is a more modern one available from Fiebing on their site or you can go to the Leathercraft Library (run by Tandy) and download the books by Al Stohlman. I have used his references since I started in this trade over 40 years ago and learned much from him through his books and teachings.

Hope this helps.

[Paulr]

So this is the one you think its done with? http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/6884-00.aspx I was looking at them last time i was picking up some stuff but didn't pick them up. Might have to give them a try. I did get some of the fiebings dyes and really like them, but my god is there a way to get it open without getting it on your hands!? I guess i could use gloves just didnt think i would need them to get the seal off the bottle. thanks again