Members lightningad Posted April 17, 2013 Members Report Posted April 17, 2013 I am making a couple of satchels that i want to apply a waterproof finish to, and so have bought Resolene. I have never used it before, and the instructions are pretty vague, so wanted to ask my questions here... When is the best time in the fabrication process to apply the Resolene? should i apply it before stitching the leather together or as the very last step? Would Resolene be the last goo to apply or would you apply other waxes after its dried? I've read that it can be watered down - whats a reasonable dilution to use? thanks Adam Quote
Members humperdingle Posted April 17, 2013 Members Report Posted April 17, 2013 I am making a couple of satchels that i want to apply a waterproof finish to, and so have bought Resolene. I have never used it before, and the instructions are pretty vague, so wanted to ask my questions here... When is the best time in the fabrication process to apply the Resolene? should i apply it before stitching the leather together or as the very last step? Would Resolene be the last goo to apply or would you apply other waxes after its dried? I've read that it can be watered down - whats a reasonable dilution to use? thanks Adam Hi Adam, use a 50/50 mix with water... I wasn't impressed with it, but I'd used it neat and didn't realise until looking on here that it needed to be cut. I'll leave the other details to the more experienced Quote
Members lightningad Posted April 17, 2013 Author Members Report Posted April 17, 2013 thanks - at least it will last longer that way! Quote
Members Dwight Posted April 17, 2013 Members Report Posted April 17, 2013 I use it 50/50 with water. Brush it on with a cheap bristle brush, . . . put enough on to get a simulated lather as you brush. Don't be an artist with the brushing either, . . . sorta like brushing a fence, . . . hit it and get it. Brush left, right, up, down, oblique left, oblique right, . . . NO SWIRLS, . . . just keep brushing until all the little bubbles are gone. Lighten up on the stroke as the bubbles dissapear. Best thing to do, . . . cut a practice piece, . . . dye it half brown, . . . half black, . . . play with the instructions, . . . Yes, . . . you can add coats of the stuff, . . . but there is a point where it becomes so thick that it WILL crack, . . . and you will be unhappy. Yes, . . . you can wax over top of it, . . . just give it 48 hours or so to cure before waxing. For my holsters, wallets, belts, etc. Resolene is the last step, . . . when it's done, . . . I'm done. May God bless, Dwight Quote
Members lightningad Posted April 17, 2013 Author Members Report Posted April 17, 2013 thanks Dwight, for this job the leather is a pre-dyed butt so i dont have to worry about the colouring this time around....but you're spot on - i definitely need to have a little practice before slopping it onto the finished work. adam Quote
Members Cyberthrasher Posted April 17, 2013 Members Report Posted April 17, 2013 Ditto Dwight. I prefer 2 - 3 light coats of 50/50. I use a lightly moistened sponge or airbrush myself, but other than that the application is the same. the key is LIGHT pressure as you go along. If you keep on pressing hard, it actually removes what's there and starting to dry, just making a mess of things. I had to learn that one the hard way. Quote
Members lightningad Posted April 18, 2013 Author Members Report Posted April 18, 2013 maybe its time i took the plunge and tried an airbrush! Got an old Badger knocking around somewhere... Quote
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