A Few Holsters By A Newbie

[workingmanleather]

So I started doing holsters around Feb of this year these are a few I have done and would like you guys to help me. Just some pointers about my edges and my sewing. I know my lines are alittle off which I purchased a sewing machine and they will be getting better. Ok enough of my rambling any tips will be greatly appriciated. The small 380 was my first and the paddle holster is my latest I did use my new burnishing tool attached to my drill press on it. I still want to get a small belt sander to even out the edges but the new burnisher is amazing ordered it from a guy in Utah off eBay good price and great piece.

Thanks

Gregg

Workingmanleather

[workingmanleather]

I feel I take criticism fairly well lol would anyone care to critique some of the pictures. I sure could use some unbiased opinions so I know where I need to improve. IMO by looking at the pictures I posted I definitely need to clean up my work any pointers on making my edges cleaner as far as getting it to look more even without sanding?

Thanks

Gregg

Workingmanleather

[olds cool]

You asked for critisism, so here it is. I mean no disrespect, simply pointing out some things to help you progress. I still consider myself a newbie as well and by no means are my words the final say of a master craftsman, take 'em for what they're worth.

By the looks of the next to last pic, you are using the edger on the insides where the pieces meet. This is creating the appearance of, for lack of a better explanation, a set of lips. Do not edge the sides that meet, only do the outsides and wait to burnish until they are together. This will allow them to come together as 1 piece and when burnished properly, will be a nice smooth rounded edge with no sign of it ever being 2 pieces. I worry about the retention of the black holster with the Sig in it. Can you turn it upside down and shake it a few times without it falling out? Remember, your body does a lot more twisting and bending that you realize and each move will try to push anything in its way, such as a gun out of a holster. Boning in the details will give the retention that you need if you want to keep it strapless. I like the shoulder holster, without better pics I can't see much of the details though. Watch the placement of your stitch lines and take your time to pull the stitches tight & even. An everstich wheel like this one will help witht eh placement of the holes and even it out for you. Other than those few things, it looks like you've got decent patterns to work from and have a good idea of what you want so just take your time and your work will reflect it. There's no rush to get things done, no slave driver cracking a whip, and no boss counting production per hour. With experience will come speed. In the meantime, focus on honing techniques and finding the groove that works for you. By the way, don't I know you from TCU?

[workingmanleather]

Olds cool

Thanks for the reply I see what your saying now about the edges I can't wait to get out there and make a new holster lol. And as for the black hoster with the SIG it was pretty tight while holding upside down the main reason I did not put a thumb break on it was the gentleman was a bigger guy and he requested it that way assuming so he didn't have to do much to get it out. And lastly TCU, the college? Never went I work at a steel mill in Ohio :-) but again thanks for the pointers and oh and here's alittle better pic of the shoulder rig un dyed.

[olds cool]

TCU is short for The Chopper Underground, a forum devoted to hand built choppers and other custom garage built motorcycles. I think there is/was someone on there with a similar name. Thanks for the extra pic. I've been thinking about doing a shoulder rig for my 1911 because it's so hard to conceal. I understand what you mean on the Sig holster and if someone specifies something a certain way, there's often little room for argument

[workingmanleather]

Yes now that you say that I am a member of TCU I was building an 87 kaw kz750 hard tailing it and making a bobber. I still have some work to do on the design of the way the holster attaches to the shoulder rig but its a work in progress. Again thanks for the reply.

[billymac814]

I'm pretty sure there's another "Workingman leather" on TCU, I think he is/was a member here too. I was supposed to make him something and I completely forgot about it until now.

I would agree about the edges, mark out your lines where the leather will meet and stop burnishing there, when you put them together you can sand them or cut them flush. You can use a dremel or a belt sander. You can get a 30 dollar 1" belt sander from harbor freight that will be perfect for that.

What sewing machine did you get? Make sure it is suitable for the job, if not keep handsewing them. Get the Al Stohlman book, he makes it very clear how to get perfect stitches and don't be tempted to take easier routes.

Aside from that just work on keeping your lines very fluid and try to get your stitch line close to the profile of the gun or it'll loosen up over time. Also when molding them sometimes less is more, it looks like the last picture you overworked the leather trying to mold it. I used to do that a lot at first. All I use is a modeling spoon to detail them, I use a press but when I'm doing them by hand I just use my hands to form them then use the modeling spoon to trace the lines. Don't rub the leather with anything or it'll compress the leather and not be perfectly smooth and look like the last picture does, I'm not sure if that makes sense or not, its hard to describe what I mean.

Lastly I would not do the logo thing like you did, it looks like it was scratched in there. If you want to do something similar either have a stamp made or get a piece of conduit and press that into the leather to make a circle and use alphabet stamps for the lettering. Tandy also sells a stamp that says "handcrafted by" and has a spot for initials. I used to use it prior to having stamps made.

I'd also recommend using your friends as guinea pigs, just make sure they will be honest with you. I wouldn't sell anything to a stranger that isn't perfect, in the long run it'll pay off, it doesn't take many people posting bad things on the Internet to ruin a new business and holsters are not like most other leatherwork, it is serious business that could result in some bad stuff happening if something goes array. If someone drops their gun and don't realize it who's to say a kid won't come up and find it or maybe someone can't get to their gun out of the holster when they need it most. Each new design should be thoroughly tested before it is released. Also you'll get all kinds of requests for some crazy holsters, if they start off by saying " I can't find what I'm looking for anywhere" it is usually because its a bad idea, its easy in the beginning to want to take on these jobs because you want every sale you can get but I would try to refrain and educate the customer. Most will respond well, some won't.

[St8LineGunsmith]

what stands out most to me is the stitching. instead of making square corners in the stitching make the stitch lines flow with the curvature of the gun.

layout the perimeter of the holster stitch line with a wing divider 3/16" from the edge and use a stitching groover and overstitch wheel to use as a prep for your stitching line and holes will help make your stitching look real nice

punch your holes with a diamond awl at a 45degree angle will add contrast to your stitching

I use the waxed artifical sinew for sewing just about everything I make only fall back is you have to twist it up before stitching but really makes nice looking stitching

when making your lines use a straight edge

[workingmanleather]

Thanks for all the pointers everyone!!

billymac814

as far as the machine goes I purchased a Pfaff 145 walking foot got it at a good price put a servo motor on it and a shop is timing it and doing some slight mods to make it ideal for my leather size and thread size. I'm attaching a picture of the new way I have been stamping my work I think it looks much better now.

St8linegunsmithing

Definitely see what you are referring too the lines on the paddle look really bad I feel they will get better with a machine for sure but also I need to take more time when making my lines.

Thanks again for all the tips I can only improve can't get worse lol one more thing on the detail work I have a bone tool that's what I was trying to do my bone work with I will have to post a pic of one I have done with that tool and see if it looks any better for now here is the other pic of my stamp now

[billymac814]

The pfaff 145 is more of a medium weight machine and its a flat bed so it may no be too practical for holsters. You should be able to use it for pancake styles and other flat type holsters or sewing reinforcement pieces on, probably max out at 207 thread. I use 277 thread on all my holsters unless its a really heavy duty one then ill use 346.

Here's my opinion on a makers mark, someone should be able to use it to track you down if they see it and want another one. I have several stamps made in various sizes, some say McCabes custom leather, others just say McCabe. If someone picks up my holster, let's say it was included with a used gun they bought and they really like it and want to get another one for their other guns they can easily google McCabe holsters and find me or if they get one stamped McCabes custom leather they just google that. If you just put WM it means nothing to them, they may even find me (William McCabe ) before they find you. You can get them made for cheap, around 30 bucks for a smallish one and it'll look more professional and serve its purpose. Otherwise I don't see the point to just put the WM at this point, if you want that to be your logo I would put it very small beside the words spelled out until you have brand recognition which doesn't often happen for most of us. Even Mercedes spells out their name on their cars along with the logo. That's just my opinion though, you can do whatever you like, that's the beauty of it all.

[workingmanleather]

Wow I never really thought of it like that that's a very good point. I will have to work on that for sure where did you get your stamps made. I've looked at Tandy and a custom stamp with a name is like 160 dollars. My dad is a mechanist and is going to be making me one but itay be a bit. I would love to have one I can just stamp on. As far as the Pfaff I went on a limb and picked it up for around 350 dollars I did however speak to the owner of an industrial sew shop who told me that it would work well for my application. Its in his shop now being timed and getting a brushless motor. The thread I am using is 207. I've been using the waxed thread from Tandy what size isiit. My holsters seem to be very strong as far as held together I mean. Do you feel 207 is to light for holsters? He has modified the machine to accept up to 277 for me and being a walking foot I thought it would do the job.

[billymac814]

The machine will have its limitations and its not the ideal machine for holster work but it might do for now. I have a Consew 206rb which is probably in a similar class as the one you got, it will sew with 207 thread up to I think 3/8" but it is really maxed out sewing like that even though to the average sewing machine shop it would be considered a heavy duty machine, it does much better on softer and thinner leather with thinner thread. I don't use it for holsters though. The flatbed is tough stitch most holsters with. Its set up with a gear reduction servo motor. I have a Cowboy 4500 for holsters and heavy work. It has a speed reducer and servo as well but it also has a giant flywheel that helps punch through thick stuff. Its a cylinder arm so its much easier to get holsters like fold over types like an avenger style under the needle. You may be able to see these on a flatbed but you may have to really hold them flatter, it might help to wet the bend first so you don't over stretch the leather.

You could probably get more opinions if you posted something in the sewing machines section of the forum. I believe on your machine there are different subclasses which mean different things too. Bob Kovar (cowboybob on the forum) would know best too as he's a Pfaff dealer and specializes in setting machines designed for leather.

I don't know what size the Tandy thread is but I think its around 277, I used to use that when I first started, I still have some, it almost looks a little bigger but its hard to tell. If you cement your pieces together I don't think you'd have any problems with 207 but I think 277 is pretty standard for most of us, some folks use 346, I think Dwight is one of them. I use it on really heavy items.

There's a few places to get stamps, a member here I think his name is embossing die co or something like that makes them pretty cheap and Brenda at Lasergiftcreations is a good one. I would get a small plate that is designed to be used with a press instead of the hammer type. You don't need a press, I use a pair of visegrips to press most of mine, I ground the teeth off of both sides and cemented a piece of leather to the one side. On flat items I do use an arbor press but most things aren't flat.

Did you register your business name at all? Only reason I ask is if you start with a name like that and even though its a hobby or side thing now if you ever get larger and sell more and have spent a lot of time and energy into building up the name and get to the point where you have to start doing things like pay taxes and such and find out you can't register that name it may be a problem later on. You don't technically have to register a business name if you use your own name but I was advised to do so anyway by my accountant. I'm not sure how it works really but I don't think you're the only "working man customs". That may be ok though, it would just suck to find out its not after you built the name up or if you get him lots of work from people doing Internet searches.

Here's a picture of the one I got from EmbossingDieco( I'm not sure if that's his correct name). I think it was like 30-35 bucks.

Here's a picture of one of my Avenger holsters.

Here's a good thread to read regarding sewing machines, especially walking foot machines. There are many different types of walking foot machines and each work differently.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239&st=0#

[St8LineGunsmith]

just to throw in my two cents about the sewing machine I would like to have if it ever becomes a requirement is a Cobra Class 4

I have a professional holster maker friend who swears by them and has allowed me to demonstrate his and it does run sweet either at the speed of a snail or the sped of a pro mod dragster it operate smooth as silk

I think it will sew together two pieces of 3 oz as nice as a thick piece up to 7/7" thick

which will pretty much cover anything I make

from saddle bags biker wallets, tooled purses, journals, computer, tablet, smart phone cases, belt bags, belts holsters, knife sheathes'

I have heard a lot of upholstrey guys who swears by the Cobra sewing machines also and it has a really good price point

I also looked at the cowboy leather Stitcher and the tech sew 5100 which are also good machines, looks like these three are identical machines so if I can find any one of them used at a SWEET steal of a deal I would probably try to buy it.

but as far as buying one out right new I would probably get a Cobra Clsaa 4 from Cobra Steve because I have actually been able to operate my friends which he bought his from Cobra Steve and he swears by Cobra Steve that he stands behind his machines 100%

I promise I am not trying to put a plug in here for Cobra Steve

Edited May 1, 2013 by St8LineGunsmith