Owb Pancake For Kimber 1911 3" Critique And Opinions Welcomed

[mnelson8758]

Made this one for my brother in law. This is the third holster i have made. I made him one for his Kimber Solo (still gotta post that one on here) said he loved it and wanted one for his Kimber Ultra CDP II. Couple of first for me one this one, first was trying the vinger black, this stuff is really starting to grow on me. Second I did the stiching before molding, could have been a lil closer but you never know unless you try right. Over all im happy with it has good retention, draws nice and looks decent. Still have a lot to improve upon looking at some of the other holster makers on here

[mikesmith648]

other than what you already mentioned it looks good to me

[mnelson8758]

Thanks

[Kd Custom]

Im in the process of making one for a 1911 right now also and I was just wondering what the flap was that sits above the trigger? Looks great though!

[mnelson8758]

Thanks! If your talking about the little piece of leather that starts above the trigger and extends over to the slide, its a reinforcement piece supposed to help the mouth of the holster stay open, to make it easier to reholster, I know they work on Iwb holsters not so sure how well they work for Owb holsters. But then again havent made all that many still very new to this. Plus I like the look it gives to holsters so I added it. Sure hope thats what you were referring to and not just me rambling on..

Edited May 11, 2013 by mnelson8758

[SooperJake]

looks good but I like the belt slots to end up close to vertical, not slanted at all.

[mnelson8758]

Thanks! I've read that slanted slots had more leather under the belt, which is the reason I tried it on this one. Whats the reason you like vertical slots better?

[Kd Custom]

Yes answered my question completely! I agree it gives it a different look and I like that too.

[SooperJake]

To me it lays smoother on the belt and doesn't torque or kink the belt as much. Mostly it's aesthetics.

What do you mean "more leather under the belt"?

[mnelson8758]

I agree with you on them, after wearing this one it doesn't really feel the same. Guess I have a reason to make a new one haha. Something about the slant was supposed to allow more of the holster under where the belt goes in, its just something I read thought i'd try it out. Still trying to figure this whole holster making thing out, but lesson learned i'll stay away from slants.

[SooperJake]

Some times you want a little bit of slant prior to molding. The molding process will pull the slots up to vertical. Visually, this is very evident on belt slot mag carriers. You can do a test to see how much the stitch line on a mag (for instance) will angle or pull the leather. Glue two scrap squares together on three sides...just enough to hold them together. Wet and mold. Sew around the mag with no thread in your machine, or poke holes around the molded mag as if you were stitching by hand. Now tear apart the glue and press the front piece flat. You'll be amazed at the amount of angle you'll see from the bottom of the mag to the top.

[SooperJake]

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40267&hl=magazine make the angle of the belt slots parallel to the stitch line as in this link ....the post #7 by particle

[RoosterShooter]

How did you cut your belt loops? Did you drill and cut or use a punch?

[mnelson8758]

Drilled and cut.. don't have a punch for them yet, on my list of tools to get.

[mnelson8758]

Thanks for the link SooperJake. Truely appreciate the help

[RoosterShooter]

The problem I have had in the past is that I cannot find a punch WIDE enough for my liking. The length of the punch is correct, but the width is too narrow. Know what I mean?

Edited May 13, 2013 by RoosterShooter

[mnelson8758]

Yeah I can see that being a problem. I haven't really looked at them to hard to really know the details of them af far as width and so on. I've been making the belt slots 3/8 inch seems to work pretty good for me, not sure what the common size is.

[renegadelizard]

I think it looks pretty good...i punch my belt slots after the holster is sewn together, and i cut them long and wide enough so that a slight cant to them will not interfere with the beltway...i dont know that i would start over on this holster...add another stitch line and i think it will be good to go...just alter your pattern so that next time the stichline is closer...

[SooperJake]

The problem I have had in the past is that I cannot find a punch WIDE enough for my liking. The length of the punch is correct, but the width is too narrow. Know what I mean?

Texas Custom Dies...I had one made 3/8" x 1 5/8",,,about $70 I think. Took a couple weeks to get it. The first one I had made was from Weaver and is a POS...even after I paid to send it right back to them because it came to me dull as hell, they basically sent it back in the same condition. I screwed it to the wall to remind me not to do business with Weaver. With shipping it back and original price I lost about $130, but gain important industry knowledge.

[mnelson8758]

Thanks renegadelizard! Might just have to add another stich line brother in law is happy with them, being that he was only using a Uncle Mikes nylon holster and I think everyone knows how good they are. Or at least it will get him buy til I get some better leather to work with, this was just stuff from Tandy, gonna place an order later this week when I get paid with Springfield Leather. Also gonna have to take a look at Texas Custom Dies a punch sure would make the slots little easier to do. Again thanks for the help.

[chiefjason]

My take on slots is that I punch the hole top and bottom, then use my round knife to connect the holes. Works pretty well. Although I'm seriously considering looking into a better punch. The one I bought from Springfield is way too narrow.

Also, on the holster. Looks a bit dull finish wise. If that's what you are going for, that's fine. Matter of fact, my finish process now results in a more dull finish but I like the process better. If you wanted to shine it up a bit you can use neutral shoe polish to do it. I used to use mop and glo, cheap version of resoleen, but it was hit or miss on my grooned holsters. Some were great, some were terrible.

[mnelson8758]

This holser has been a pain in the... to get a finish on everything either dulls or gets white cracks. Doesn't seem to matter how thin I put the finish on. Didn't have a problem on the practice pieces tho

[J Hayes]

This holser has been a pain in the... to get a finish on everything either dulls or gets white cracks. Doesn't seem to matter how thin I put the finish on. Didn't have a problem on the practice pieces tho

I had a problem like that too with groon, neatsfoot oil didn't even seem to want to soak in. I used mop n glo with no issues on dyed rigs, but get thr cracking on the grooned stuff. So on thr groon I use a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and neatsfoot oil by weight melted together slowly and allowed to cool. Once cooled it can be applied with your fingers and rubbed in, I'll hit it with the heat gun lighty so it soaks in, then if I want to shine it up I'll use Kiwi neutral shoe polish on it. No cracking then on my grooned stuff. Hope this helps. I do wonder if one could use just the Kiwi though.

Nice rig btw

Edited May 15, 2013 by J Hayes

[mnelson8758]

Thanks for the tip. Looks like I'll have to makes a stop by the store tomorrow and pick up some beeswax. Already have neatsfoot oil so good to go when I get the wax.

[chiefjason]

So on thr groon I use a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and neatsfoot oil by weight melted together slowly and allowed to cool.

I've gone completely to this on my all leather stuff. I was getting cracks too. The only thing I found that helped was to let the holster dry for 24 hours after every step where it was wet. Groon, baking soda bath, rinse, dry 24. Oil, dry 24. Finish, dry 24 X2. But that was not 100% either, just better.

I have also noticed with the beeswax and oil I need to turn my heat gun on high to get the pores on the leather to open up after grooning and take the wax/oil mix. With dye it will all soak in on low. Basically, the groon nearly waterproofs it by itself.

Edited May 15, 2013 by chiefjason