IngleGunLeather Posted June 23, 2013 Report Posted June 23, 2013 Just finished up a couple more gun belts. I'm trying to build up some stock in order to have some items for display at some upcoming gun shows. I think these will be for display only as I don't see myself trying to make a hundred or so belts for immediate sale. But would like to display these so potential customers can see and feel the product. Quote Ingle Gun leather
Members harley45 Posted June 23, 2013 Members Report Posted June 23, 2013 Looks good! Care to share any details? I'm just getting into belts and trying to learn what makes a good one. Quote
IngleGunLeather Posted June 23, 2013 Author Report Posted June 23, 2013 Looks good! Care to share any details? I'm just getting into belts and trying to learn what makes a good one. Thanks Harley! I'd be happy to share. I start with 6/7 Hermann Oak single belt belt from Springfield Leather Co. I cut my 1.5 in strip and cut to length, mark my stitch line, punch my billet and chape holes, and dye to selected color. I then cut my 2.0 in liner and glue them together and sew. After the sewing is done I trim my liner to 1.5 in, sand even and bevel the edges. I then dye the edges and burnish using Bob Park's method (can be found on this forum). Once all the burnishing is done I apply Montana Pitch Blend oil, dry over night and the apply MPB leather dressing. There's more details with the process, but that's it in a nutshell. Please feel free to ask about anything not covered. Quote Ingle Gun leather
Members harley45 Posted June 23, 2013 Members Report Posted June 23, 2013 The end that wraps over the buckle is it full double weight or do you skive it? That's the part I can't visualize. Also do they make billet punches or do you freehand it? Quote
IngleGunLeather Posted June 23, 2013 Author Report Posted June 23, 2013 The end that wraps over the buckle is it full double weight or do you skive it? That's the part I can't visualize. Also do they make billet punches or do you freehand it? It's skived just behind the tongue slot. I took an existing pattern I got from Chris "Slickbald" Andre's western belt pattern packand use it for my templates. However, I'm sure you could use an existing belt and use it for a template as well. Hope this helps. Quote Ingle Gun leather
Members SouthernCross Posted June 24, 2013 Members Report Posted June 24, 2013 Mr. Ingle, How do you trim the 2.0" wide piece so that it's straight? I'm assuming that you roughly center the 1.5" piece on the 2.0" piece? Quote
IngleGunLeather Posted June 24, 2013 Author Report Posted June 24, 2013 Mr. Ingle, How do you trim the 2.0" wide piece so that it's straight? I'm assuming that you roughly center the 1.5" piece on the 2.0" piece? That's correct. I center the 1-1/2 inch layer as best as possible and I should roughly have a 1/4 inch on each side to trim off. Once my 1-1/2 inch layer is glued to (on top) the 2 inch layer, I merely use the edge of the 1-1/2 layer as a guide and trim off the excess with my round knife. Quote Ingle Gun leather
Members workingmanleather Posted June 24, 2013 Members Report Posted June 24, 2013 I made a belt for a co worker recently basically just a blank from tandy and a buckle. After seeing yours I should give him his money back :-) but I only charged him for materials lol. I am curious though what weight and material do you use to line your belts? Quote
IngleGunLeather Posted June 24, 2013 Author Report Posted June 24, 2013 I made a belt for a co worker recently basically just a blank from tandy and a buckle. After seeing yours I should give him his money back :-) but I only charged him for materials lol. I am curious though what weight and material do you use to line your belts? I use 6/7 oz Hermann Oak single belt bend for both layers. Quote Ingle Gun leather
Members Eaglestroker Posted June 24, 2013 Members Report Posted June 24, 2013 I think I'm most impressed by the fit and finish. If your hand dying them, your doing a great job at consistent coverage. Those should sell some belts for you. Quote
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