What Do I Need To Buy When I Go To Tandy, Leatherwise?

[SouthernCross]

So, when I go to my local Tandy store to get leather to start making holsters what should I be shopping for? Tooling sides? tooling shoulders? etc. ,etc.? I'm thinking probably about 7 oz. as a general weight.

Edited July 13, 2013 by SouthernCross

[camano ridge]

My opinion is don't go to Tandy for your leather you can get a shoulder of Herman Oak (US tanned) for a bout the same price as a shoulder from Tandy. The Herman Oak is much better. If you do still want to go to Tandy then get a shoulder. What kind of holster are you making Concealed carry, Western etc.?

[IngleGunLeather]

Concur with C R. I made my first few holsters with Tandy leather. Made the switch to HO and never looked back. Springfield Leather usually has a great sale on the HO Craftsman grade. I'd look there first. Springfield sales squares of HO. You can get a piece of 24"x 24" for around $50. I've bought a couple lately and the quality is top notch.

Edited July 13, 2013 by CountryTrash

[SouthernCross]

I already have all the tools I'll need - sewing, stamping, cutting, etc.. I've tinkered some making a little bit of everything over the past couple of years, but now want to try making a OWB and shoulder holsters for guns ranging from a 337-1 revolver, Sig .380, to a Berettta 92.

The only reason I mentioned Tandy is that it's just off the highway on my way to/from work. If I can get better leather at the same price by having it shipped from somewhere like Springfield, I'll certainly do it.

BTW, what's the difference between a side and a shoulder? The shoulder is just the front part? Then what's the rear part called?

[WinterBear]

The rear is called the back, which is the center of the hide, usually minus the belly. Some companies will also sell a cut they call a butt.

If you scroll down to the bottom here, you'll see a nice diagram that will help you decide. The thickest, firmest leather is usually found on the back and shoulder, and it is typically thickest at the butt. The best belts are those cut front to back, parallel to the spine. Poorer quality goes side-to-side, and is therefore uneven in thickness and firmness. The closer you get to the belly, the mushier and stretchier the leather.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx

[camano ridge]

When you fihure in the shipping it will cost you a little more then Tandy. However the quality of holster will be much better and worth a few extra dollars.

A side is a lot more money. If you are going to do a lot of holsters and cut your own straps the side might be the way to go, however the side has belly leather and usually some neck leather. Belly leather is not good for holsters.

This may help explain the parts of the hide. Looks like winter bear and I were typing about the same time. sorry for the duplication.

Edited July 13, 2013 by camano ridge

[WinterBear]

This may help explain the parts of the hide. Looks like winter bear and I were typing about the same time. sorry for the duplication.

Great minds think alike?

Would confirm the Herman Oak too. I only use Tandy stuff for the Scouts and kids to beat on, and for me to practice on, but that is only because I can go there and pick through the pile, but generally what I get is middling at best. Got my hands on some HO, and really had some fun with it--cuts nice, burnishes beautifully, nice flesh sides, better grain sides than what Tandy has, and had less waste. Tandy is a good place for scraps to practice dye techniques on, and for me to pick through the bins for hair on scrap and metallic scrap, and some of the materials I use for Scout projects, but I tend to use Springfield for leather and leather supplies, and Centralia, Chichester, Crazy Crow, and a couple of ebay sellers I've bought from before for everything else.

[Jeff L]

When you fihure in the shipping it will cost you a little more then Tandy. However the quality of holster will be much better and worth a few extra dollars.

A side is a lot more money. If you are going to do a lot of holsters and cut your own straps the side might be the way to go, however the side has belly leather and usually some neck leather. Belly leather is not good for holsters.

This may help explain the parts of the hide. Looks like winter bear and I were typing about the same time. sorry for the duplication.

The Springfield website says they can cut off the neck and belly. Do they still charge for that leather or what? If not, why pay for it?

[camano ridge]

Springfield charges by the square foot that you purchase. Call and talk to them they are pretty good people to work with and will answer all of your questions.

[Jeff L]

Thanks for the reply... We have 2 Tandy's here... The manager of one was telling me today that he was ashamed of the quality of leather that they have been getting lately... He told me "Honestly, we don't have anything that you want here." ... I was simply looking for a decent 7-8 oz tooling hide for my holsters... Pathetic. Any idea what Springfield charges for shipping on a hide??? ... I asked Wickett & Craig they told me $40-50 a hide (tooling hide)... Seems a little much to me... But I did get a nice sample set in the mail today... If that whole hide was the same sweetness as that sample, I could deal with the shipping charges....