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Posted

I'm making sure to overlap the tool a bit over the previous impression and doing my best to strike with the same force each time, but my beveling is still very choppy looking. I'm just playing around on a piece of scrap so I used my molding tool to try and smooth it out.. It helps some but I'd like to know how to get it right the first time.

Also since I'm here, :) do you do a border first, then the basketweave or is it vice versa?

Thanks!

Jamie

I asked God for all things that I might enjoy life.. instead, God gave me life that I might enjoy all things.

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Posted

Practise :thumbsup:

And...basketweave first, then border...

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Posted

Lol ok :). Thanks!

I asked God for all things that I might enjoy life.. instead, God gave me life that I might enjoy all things.

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Posted

Practice walking the tool in a straight line without a cut. You might find it easier to hold the beveler slightly about the leather and "bounce" it with the mallet/maul.

Also, make sure your leather has the correct moisture content. Too wet, and it will look choppier.

Chuck

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Posted

Yet another thing is the quality of your bevelling stamp.

I can't get a smooth line with my cheap Tandy craftool beveler that came with my startup kit, no matter how hard I try. I asked the same question as you a year or two ago, and the advice that worked for me was to get a better beveler.

When I upgraded to Barry King bevelers, the problem was instantly solved. Quality bevelers are a little bit domed to reduce the likelihood of leaving footprints. I think BK's are about $25 apiece, but well worth the money.

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Posted

Just to add an idea, I have found that a trip around the bevel with a modeling spoon smooth's it out very nicely. Just a thought.

  • Members
Posted

Yet another thing is the quality of your bevelling stamp.

I can't get a smooth line with my cheap Tandy craftool beveler that came with my startup kit, no matter how hard I try. I asked the same question as you a year or two ago, and the advice that worked for me was to get a better beveler.

When I upgraded to Barry King bevelers, the problem was instantly solved. Quality bevelers are a little bit domed to reduce the likelihood of leaving footprints. I think BK's are about $25 apiece, but well worth the money.

Same here. Had a Tandy from the Lucky 7 kit and struggled for a few projects then i ordered a medium sized barry king. After seeing the difference i bought 2 more from BK. I was reading up on something in one of my basics books the other day and it mentioned stropping your beveler. Not really sure what the point of this would be other then to remove micro layers of tanning residue that may build up on the beveler but i dont really slide mine its more of a small scale hopping jackhammering.

I tried to draw comics for a few years... I was a medic for a few years... Using a wrench is in my blood forever. Somewhere in that mess I picked up a piece of leather and made a dog collar, I was finally satisfied with something I had done. Everyday I marvel at the things I have made, and I am happy...

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Posted

One thing that is key to achieving good beveling is proper swivel knife work. The depth of swivel knife cuts should be roughly 1/2 the thickness of the leather. Using leather at least 5oz thick also helps. A nice, smooth, deep cut in properly thick leather is much easier to follow with a beveler.

Michelle

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Posted

I have found if I keep my hand low on the stamp I have more control...like holding a pencil.

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