Preparing Rawhide For Strings

[bucksnort]

I'm always interested in how different braiders cut their hides initially. Since I've never heard of anyone else using the same method I do, I thought I'd throw it out there. After a hide is fleshed, dehaired & stretched, I first take a 4 in strip out down the center of the back. Like a lot of braiders, I don't like to cut strings across the back. Ralph Dillon taught me to take out this strip which is then used to make cores for bosals so it doesn't go to waste. The quality of this strip is usually OK, it just seems to have a grain to it that runs lengthwise. While I have used the 30 in. circles, I find smaller ones easier to work with. A 10 in circle will yield about 25 ft. of 1/4 in string. I typically use 1/8 or smaller strings to braid & seldom over 12 ft. long, so these measurements work well for me. I cut my hides into 10 in. squares, trying to keep the thickness even within the square. Now I can simply stack up these squares for storage & when I'm ready to start a project I pick out squares of whatever thickness & color I need, soak & case them, mark & cut a circle & then cut my strings. I have & still sometimes do cut strings from odd shapes, oval etc.. but find it easier & less wasteful to start with a perfect circle. That's the way I do it now, next week I may have a whole different idea. Buck

[rawhide1]

Buck

Thanks for sharing your method. I also enjoy hearing how others prepare their strings. For some reason I have trouble cutting from any shape oval, round, or other wise. So I'll start with a somewhat round oval shape. I'll then take my draw gauge or a sharp knife and start cutting around the hide generally 3/4"- 1". And if I do it freehand it's fer damn sure not uniform. I'll take and stretch that strip a bit. Then I go to cutting

string. Any how that's what works for me.

Thanks again, Mike

[bucksnort]

Mike, I like to cut 1/4 strings from the round because they are more flexible & I can cut a little more at the center before the curve gets too tight, but also if you're cutting from a odd shape you can go around a sharper corner without making a bad spot. I put my draw gauge in a vice so I can pull with one hand & keep the round rotated tight on the side away from the blade if that makes sense. Glad I'm not the only one without a fancy string cutter. On the first couple of projects I did I cut all my strings freehand & used my bench grinder to even the thickness ( works, but it smells bad).With a little grinding I am able to get my draw gauge down to a 3/32 string width which is narrow enough for me. Thanks for sharing. Buck

[rawhide1]

Buck

I do have a Bryn Nubert string cutter. Lol I just don't like to use it to cut my initial string. But I will use it to cut my finial strings. Didn't mean to mislead anyone.

Your a lot handier than me that's fer sure. Your method sure seems to work for you. As your gear looks nice.

Mike

[Leatherpownder]

I have a string cutter on a stand the same height as my bench and use industrial razor blades in it. Where it is the same height as my bench I can put my round on the bench so everything is flat while I cut string, usually cutting a 1/2" string until the round gets smaller then 1/4" string is cut. I run this string through the splitter then coil and let dry for storage, I split it so when it is rewet it tempers evenly. I usually save the backs for cores like Bucksnort.

[rawhide1]

Leatherpownder

I'm curious as to how the paper bag helps in the rolling process.

Thanks, Mike

[Leatherpownder]

Gives ya traction so the work rolls instead of slides.

[rawhide1]

Got it thanks!?

Mike

[bucksnort]

Thanks guys, I can see where cutting your initial strings would be tough with a regular string cutter unless it was the same height as your workbench like Leatherpownder's. One other thing I like about the smaller circles is that they fit easily in my humidifier for casing (tupperware type box about 18in X 14in).I have to fold bigger pieces or use a big plastic bag. I keep trying different things, the last hide I did a few days ago I took the best of the hide (center oval & cut it all into 1/2 in string & ran the whole thing thru the splitter. It was a lot more work than I wanted to do all at once & I ended up with some bad spots, not sure if maybe thats where I crossed the back. All in all it was OK. I was able to get decent strings between the bad spots & bundled them up for future use. Thanks for the paper tip Leatherpownder. buck

Edited July 28, 2013 by bucksnort

[Leatherpownder]

Probably flank or neck. I cut the biggest circle from the best parts of the side and small circles in the marginal spots for knot string that way if it is really stretchy it is discarded without loosing good hide in the process.

[curlyjo]

Sure do like this info. I do it a little diff. I take a piece about 2x2 of the hide and round off the corners. Then I go around and around with a cutter made from a broom stick. Take a heavy round stick and drill a hole through it, cut a slot with a bandsaw 90 degrees to that and down below the hole. Slope the top towards the front, put a small nail for a guage and use an injector blade in the slot.Put a bolt through the hole to cinch up the blade. When going around and a corner starts to form, just round it out.I've cut 1000's of feet of string this way. You can make diff. size cutters by moving the nail over or have seperate cutters. Rawhide I cut a full 1/4" but kangaroo I cut 7/32". My humidor is a 5 gallon bucket with a screen suspended off the bottom with a little water in it. I put my project on the screen and cover the top with a piece of plastic. If the rawhide has any moisture in it at all it will draw more out of the water and even itself up pretty good. With the stick cutter I recently cut 180' out of a 30" disc. Brad

[bucksnort]

Thanks Brad, I have seen that type of cutter, but never made one. It strikes me that it would be more maneuverable than a draw gauge (which is truly designed to make straight cuts on leather). My humidor is very much like your only a plastic box with lid with fence wire covered with window screen in the bottom. I'll have to make a cutter & give it a try. Often the simplest tools are the best. Buck

[rcsaddles]

What great info we have here. I'll put in the way I cut since it is different. This is the way Mary Fields taught me and it works for me so I stick with it.

The hide comes off the critter and I just lay it out on the ground hair side down. I let it lay and dry until there is a little stiffness to make it easier to cut. I start in the middle using a utllity knife and cut a 1 1/2 inch wide strap or soga. I do cut out the brand before starting to cut. Here in Montana we don't have to worry much about grub holes and such.

After the soga is cut, I tie on end to a post and then run the other end out as far as I can. I usually have to tie a rope to it and run it to another post and tie it off just as tight as I can to help get the stretch out of it. I then tie another rope to the middle and pull it to one side and tie off to yet another post to stretch it even more.

I then take my pocket knife and scrape the hair off. I don't shave it, I scrape it. I carry a diamond steel in my pocket and use it often. Yes, it seems like it takes a long time but no longer that any other way to scrape hair. The soga will actually cup as it dries and the yellowjackets like the fat but other than that, it is not a bad process.

Once the hair is removed, I soak the soga in a barrell of water until it is about like spaghetti. Don't mean to ruin anyone on any foods here. I then run the soga through my splitter until it is an even thickness. I will run it through the splitter about 10 times and just take a minimum amount each time through.

After splitting, the strap will be hung out in the shade and left to dry some. When the edges are dry and hard and can almost cut you, but the center part is still pliable, then it goes in a plastic bag until it is tempered or has even moisture. Now it is ready to cut into string for braiding. This part may or may not make sense but if you look at the strap, you can tell which was the inside of the cut when you cut up the hide. I start with my first string coming off the inside. This string is the one that is used to get a good even edge to cut the next string from. I then cut my four strings for a reata from this soga. I have only used an Aussie Lace cutter to cut my strings for rawhide. Mary always used a draw guage to cut her string.

Then bevel and braid. I should have said up front that this is for a reata. Knowing that you need string just as long as possible that is why it is cut the way I have described. I take as much stretch out of the rawhide before splitting so I don't have a lot of stretch when I braid.

As a note as to my qualifications, Mary Fields is in the Bruce Grant Encyclopedia of Leather and Rawhide Braiding book. She was my rawhide instructor. I met Mary in 1993 when I was working in Bonanza, Oregon. I would meet with her about twice a month and we would make and braid rawhide. She was 72 when I met her and had braided 90 reatas by then. She told me that the hide from a bloated cow was not worth getting as it would be spongy. She also said some of the best rawhide comes from a Hereford cow that is about 2/3 starved to death. Mary also told me that the best reata she ever made was from the hide from her favorite horse.

As always, I encourage everyone to talk to everyone they can about how to make, how to braid or anything else they can to help improve. I will not tell you my way is the best, the easiest or the only way to do things. I want you to try different ways and use what works for you. I will be trying some of the different things I have read in this thread. Anything to keep improving.

Vaya con Dios.

[bucksnort]

Thanks Joe, Your method is very close to the way Lige Langston did it, tho in later years he started liming his hides to dehair them. I have seen Frank Morgan work strings this way, but he cut from the outside in. With all the modern equipment & such that we have it's important not to lose the old ways as they still have so much value. I am familiar with Mary Fields, but never met her. I appreciate everyone taking the time to share. the great thing about this site is it not only helps me, but anyone who runs across it. Buck

[curlyjo]

RC, years ago Lige Langston pretty much cut his string like that. But he told me he would put some bottles in a sack and lightly break them. Then with gloves he would fish a piece of glass out and scrape the hair. When it got dull he would get another piece. Your method reminded me of that. Brad

[rcsaddles]

I will admit that the way I was taught might take a little longer and be a little harder than some of the more "modern" ways but it is probably more like the original way rawhide was made. I use no chemicals or lime on my rawhide. I do use Ivory soap to make my plaiting soap but that is all.

"I appreciate everyone taking the time to share. the great thing about this site is it not only helps me, but anyone who runs across it." Buck

I have to agree with this statement. There is so much to learn from others and that is what keeps me coming back to here. I enjoy the willingness of others to give information. There are very few things I do with leatherwork that I will not freely share with others.

[bucksnort]

So many cool ideas, leatherpownder using paper for traction when rolling, curlyjo's broken glass for scraping (I have a vision of me with about 15 different tools that I tried & discarded scraping a hide). The best part is it shows how we are always learning & trying new things. I know that sometime in the future I will try at least parts of all of these methods as the situation dictates. Buck

[Leatherpownder]

RC, i don't use any chemical either just some ashes and elbow grease. Some good discussion here for sure.

[rcsaddles]

Leatherpownder, I'm not sure there are many of us left that do not lime the hide to remove hair. I can't remember, where are you in Idaho? I have an aunt and uncle in Idaho Falls. Don't go see them much but if you are close, I might make it a point to stop in and meet you next time I'm there.

[Leatherpownder]

Not far from them RC, maybe about 60 miles south down Arbon valley between Pocatello and American Falls. Give me a call if your ever coming this way.

[rcsaddles]

My Father-in-law lives not far from Caldwell. We go down to Pocatello and across to Calswell when we go see him. Not sure if we will be going out this fall or not but if we do, I will let you know and get your number then.