Absolute Rank Beginner Here, Need Advice On Equipment And Education

[tcs77]

Other than some brief activities in scouting (basic wallets, pocket knife cases) I've never worked with leather. The other day I was watching How It's Made and saw how leather attache cases were assembled and really fell in love with the idea of leatherworking. I'd like to make things like briefcases, wallets, maybe even loafers or moccasins when I know what I'm doing. There doesn't seem to be a lot of info on the internet about this sort of thing, especially from a beginner's perspective, so I'm hoping to get some guidance.

What are the must have tools? Not the fancy things that make it easier, but the basic toolset that I can get by with while I'm learning. What's a good book for getting into this kind of leatherworking? There's a lot of options for carving and otherwise tooling leather, but that's not quite my cup of tea, at least for now.

Thanks for any help!

edit: I should mention that I think I want my first big project to be a laptop bag, something that I can put my laptop and a few accessories in and really get some use out of. Any advice on patterns and materials for that would be much appreciated!

Edited August 6, 2013 by tcs77

[St8LineGunsmith]

you will need sewing tools for sure

you will need thread a stitching pony is most essential IMO

you will need a overstitch wheel, groover a stitching awl with a small blade

you will need needles and you will most definately need a knife to cut the leather

the art of stitching leather by Al Stholman would be a good book to start with.

[Matt S]

A thin bladed knife, a diamond harness awl, two harness needles, wet&dry paper for sharpening. Those are the essentials. A pair of steel dividers between 4 and 6 inches have a lot of different uses. Many tools can be improvised, but I would advise sticking away from Tandy, even as a beginner. I can get professional-grade or near-professional-grade tools for not much more than regular Tandy prices, and they actually hold resale value.

Probably your best choice of reading material is the Al Stohlman books. Case making vols 1-3 are great, and you will want to have hand tools and hand sewing also. These are all available from Tandy and some of the few items from them worthwhile. If you (as I suspect) saw the Alfred Dunhill video you will want a pricking iron of at least 8 stitches per inch (Dixons tools are excellent), needles no larger than no2 (no way you will get em from Tandy) and a small awl (again don't bother with Tandy). Watch Dangerous Beanz' excellent vids on hand stitching and awl sharpening.

[Northmount]

You need to search this forum for the types of work and tools. This question is asked twice a day, loads of answers and assistance is being provided and has been provided by great members here. Go to the top right of the page and you will see "new content" or use this link http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=viewNewContent&search_app=forums and pick settings on the left side. 2 weeks will get you lots of threads. You will see some of the same questions or very similar questions to yours.

The search function is near the top right. It can become your new best friend when you are looking for particular information. You might even get distracted with things you find that are also interesting to you. I sure do! Lots to learn here.

And welcome to the addiction.

Tom

[tcs77]

Alright, I'll go find a more helpful and less condescending site

[Northmount]

Alright, I'll go find a more helpful and less condescending site

My apologies! I had no intention of driving you away, but rather some pointers that could help you find more information that you are looking for. You had two replies before mine with people helping, and that is what we want to do. We also want you to do some research where it is easily within your reach. That was my intent.

Again, sorry for putting you off.

Tom

[Konnie]

It is not condescending, if you give a tip as you can get from this forum a lot of information.

I can not count the hours I've spent reading the old posts. And no matter which theme I have chosen, there was almost always an answer. I even found answers without asking. Great advice which made me happy. And if I had a specific question, I also get an answer directly from the members.

I am very glad that there is this archive of knowledge and thank all who have helped through their contributions to it.

Konnie

I hope Google has translated into my mind

[St8LineGunsmith]

I am pretty sure I gave you pretty solid information without being condescending.thin skinned winers really iritate me so ya maybe you should find another site Buh Bye Edited August 6, 2013 by St8LineGunsmith

[wolfe9]

Alright, I'll go find a more helpful and less condescending site

WOW you really haven't spent time on many forums have you , on MOST sites if you asked a question that had been asked over and over you would get BLASTED . Most everyone here is pretty laid back and MORE THAN willing to help ANYONE . I know its now uncommon sense but why didn't you take a few seconds and a tiny bit of effort to do a search ? How is it condescending to tell you that a search would help you find the information you are looking for ? Maybe you didn't know you could search ? In which case that was the best advice you ever get .

Maybe its just me but if I am looking for information that I know is so very basic for most of the people here I take a few min and try to search on my own first , it doesn't always work , sometime its hard to find the right key words but I try first .

There are many many very impressive people here , I may not live long enough to reach their level but I am always amazed how they are so willing to share information , tricks ect with someone that could some day be competing in the same market .

I have NEVER seen anyone get flamed here like on other sites .

My suggestion would be for you to take some time and look around the forum , THEN take a step back and

#1 check the attitude

#2 give the people here the respect they deserve

#3 learn to appreciate the fact that they are so willing to help you ( as long as you are willing to do your part in helping yourself )

#4 realize that they are busy and are taking time out of their day to help YOU

Im sure if you do those thing that everyone would be willing to welcome you back with open arms .

Take it for what its worth .

If this hurts your feelings have a nice day & good luck finding a more helpful site.

Wolfe9

Edited August 18, 2013 by wolfe9

[immiketoo]

What the? I don't even.... Wow. Well, good luck. We will still welcome you back once you make the rounds.

[Hallyth]

Hi, I am brand new to the site today. I have some experience with some (very different subject) forums, and yes, searching new forums isn't always the easiest thing to do. From my point of view I am struggling because I don't yet understand the terminology in leather working, or what the tools even are, never mind if I need them, where to find them (UK based), which to get etc etc.

I'm wary of posting questions as I know how tiresome newbie questions can be to 'old hands'. You just want to shout..."use the search function"!! BUT, newbies don't always understand that, or where to search/what to search for.

As a real proper complete beginner with no knowledge, I'm struggling......but I AM looking!

Now then....some of you get into canals and narrowboats, and come onto the canal forum I am a member of, and remember what it's like to be lost in a completely new subject!

edited to add: Thank you to the early posters, I will find that info useful....once I know what you are talking about lol!!

Edited September 3, 2013 by Hallyth

[Matt S]

Hi Hally, welcome aboard.

Remember that, just like the English language in general, British and American/Canadian leatherworking terminology can vary surprisingly. So too do tools and techniques in certain ways. Some great ways to learn the basics are the Al Stohlman books Hand Sewing, Case Making and Leatherworking Tools.

[Hallyth]

Thank you Matt, and thanks for the welcome!

I keep coming across people recommending Al Stohlman books, so I guess those are the ones to chase.

I have just ordered a starter kit to give it a go and see if it's the right craft for me, and I think I'll try a library for books first, maybe get my own later.

[Matt S]

Thank you Matt, and thanks for the welcome!

I keep coming across people recommending Al Stohlman books, so I guess those are the ones to chase.

I have just ordered a starter kit to give it a go and see if it's the right craft for me, and I think I'll try a library for books first, maybe get my own later.

May I ask which starter set you bought? If it's the Tandy one I would suggest returning it and spending the money on better tools for the same or better price. Many people on here can guide you.

[Hallyth]

It was the Tandy one, yes, it was the only starter kit I could readily find. I understand it won't be great, but I'm hoping it will let me know if this is the right direction for me, and just give me a basic starting point. If so, then I can start to learn more with better books, and grow a better set of tools. Right now I wouldn't have a clue what to buy, so it really id just a starting point, and will hopefully serve it's purpose. I hear what you are saying though!

I started a couple of other threads (3 I think) requesting assorted advice, so hopefully thay will bring me some help in and some better knowledge...meanwhile...I am trawling this site, but there's so much on here!!

Edited September 4, 2013 by Hallyth

[Renoir]

I recently started and I'd agree with the first couple of lists give here - the things I found most useful:

Youtube videos! (Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage are the best!)

Diamond stitching awl - get two - and some sandpaper/wet'dry paper, various grades (cheap shop stuff is fine). **Learn how and SHARPEN THE AWL**. Or, if you buy an awl from goods japan they come ready-sharp!.

John James no.2 saddler/harness needles. Cheap as chips, they'll post you some ( http://www.jjneedles...ss-Needles.html)

A pony or something to hold work while stitching is essential. you could probably make something fairly easily, even a bit of wood and a rubber band will help - hold between your knees and have both hands free for sewing.

Sharp knife and ruler - craft knife, snap-off knife, is fine to start with - must be sharp.

A bit of scrap leather, scrap wood and some polishing paste/jewellers paste to make a strop. Stropping a craft knife/snap-off knife is enough to give it a nice edge. It won't last as long as the 'proper' knives, but stropping really helps keep the edge sharp.

I bought a couple of grade 3 hides (077) and a lovely shoulder (026) from le provo ( http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm ). a bit of a faff for ordering online, but great customer support. the grade 3's are great for learning - you don't worry about 'wasting' in as it's a lot cheaper, and making small things (watch straps, bracelets, wallets) you can cut around the marks and find a nice bit. Good tools and prices too.

a medium edge beveller (normally no 2) - nice for finishing edges. use a scrap of canvas or material for burnishing or get a cheap wooden burnishing tool. (wet the edge with a wet finger and rub until smooth and dark)

** optional A stitch groover is handy (one that makes a groove near the edge). GoodsJapan make a good one that can do it with an edge guide, or without (freehand) and even comes with a groove thing. I like the look of that - it replaces about 4 other tools

** optional a stitch wheel - maybe 7 stitches per inch? to help measure your stitching. Pricking Irons are expensive, but a good investment later.

I would recommend fiebings professional oil dye - just get a 4oz bottle of a nice brown colour (mahogany?) to start. Much nicer results and avoids lots of the problems of cheaper dyes.

**disposable gloves for dyeing

Carnuba cream and/or leather sheen or resoline finish - fiebings? Tan-kote for finishing the 'flesh' (inside) of leather.

A safety skiver is a good tool - can be replaced by a very sharp knife and some practice. I found the bendy snap-off knives, once stropped, do a nice job. videos of skiving (thinning the leather, usually at the joins or edges) will help.

pencil and rubber for marking lines (preferably the back of the leather).

If you want to try tooling, then a starter set of stamps/bevelling tools and a rubber/plastic/rawhide hammer.

Much more fun to grab some real leather and have a go - don't be scared of it, it's great fun.

Edited September 4, 2013 by Renoir

[Leese]

Good evening everyone. I am kind of a newbie to leather work and stumbled on the site - TONS of info and yes, it is easy to get side tracked in my searches for info that is a good thing!

After years of sewing clothing, costumes, stuffed animals and the need for a purse to match a pair of shoes, I decided to make a purse. It and the numerous bags I made after on my little Pfaff household machine are not bad and were engineering marvels of sorts...the order of putting things together was key on a home machine. I took a shoe making class in Washington State in 2011 and made a cool pair of black leather lace up shoes. I learned shoe making (my grandfather's trade when he came to the US) is a labor intensive process and requires many tools. So I decided to try out the handbag thing...I took a week long class in Europe, learned some tricks of the trade, and learned that even some of the most expensive bags on the market are made of cardboard! Anyway, I was hooked and after consulting with my friends at shoe school, I am now the proud owner of a Consew 228r post sewing machine. It just arrived on Monday and the inevitable happened, I threw the timing off as I was familiarizing myself with the machine. After many hours and tries of taking it apart, clearing thread debris and such, (yeah, no fake nails on this kid's fingers!) I believe I realigned the hook and needle properly. I am waiting for my thread shipment to arrive, but in the mean time have been experimenting with the thread tensions, feed dogs, bobbin tensions and such - it has been a learning experience

My thanks to all of you who have posted your thoughts, experiences, suggestions and such as it has helped me.

Perhaps in the future I will post pics of my shoes and my purses. I look forward to the possibilities of what I can do with an industrial machine and potential dialogue with leatherworker.net members.

[danboy295]

Thank you Matt, and thanks for the welcome!

I keep coming across people recommending Al Stohlman books, so I guess those are the ones to chase.

I have just ordered a starter kit to give it a go and see if it's the right craft for me, and I think I'll try a library for books first, maybe get my own later.

Hi Hallyth,

Fellow newbie leather worker. I actually purchased a few of the Al Stohlman books people are directing you to and have found them to be a SUPER helpful resource (along with this forum, of course ). The must haves for me were "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" and "The Art of Making Leather Cases, Vol 1." Lots of highly detailed and easy to understand pictures and examples, step by step instructions, plus lots of helpful tips and common mistakes to avoid. The only downside is they are referred to as books but in reality they are high quality magazines.

[katsass]

From the grumpy old fa --- guy, tcs77: First off -- everyone that has responded did so to assist you -- your attitude is showing - and you have no reason for it to be so. Now, for those that jumped in and asked for a list of the 'absolute bare essentials' for leather work. I wrote this a bit over a year ago - it seemed to assist a few folks back then. Mike

I see on this forum, a goodly number of folks deciding that making their own holster as the way to go to save some $$, start a new hobby, get a hand-made useful item for their personal use, or, for whatever the hell reason they have decide to go this route. Always, the first question to come up is “what do I NEED to make a holster?”, and I see a pot-load of individual’s differing ideas of the necessities. Now, I AM a grumpy old fa, uh -- man - - at times, I admit that, but I do have to shake my head at some of the ‘necessities’ I have seen listed, and the cost associated therein. What I am about to describe are the ‘tools’ and method I used in the construction of my very first holster, made in the early 1950s, for a .22 pistol given as a gift for my birthday. Done mostly with what was on hand, readily available to most folk, or easily obtained at small cost. I bought two items, other than leather; needles and thread - - that’s all I had the money for. I do here include a book (which I didn't have at the time) which gives a comprehensive description of the construction of a holster, written by a true expert. That book is ‘How To Make Holsters” by Al Stohlman. At only $12 or so, it IS a necessity IMO.

OK, after getting the book, you need PATIENCE. When starting out on a new project we all want to get it finished as quickly as possible so as to hold, observe, cuddle, treasure and show off out new masterpiece. Ignore that desire - - as a very nice lady once said on this very forum, “leatherwork is not for those seeking instant gratification” - - - I say it more pointedly. Slow the hell down, and take your time!

You have your book - - have READ it, and now NEED a pattern. You may have decided on one from the book, or you will be able to draw one for yourself from the instructions in the book. You are smart enough to NOT try to come up with a super-dooper inside/outside, cross-draw gizmo to carry your favorite shooter in, knowing that that sort of thing will take more expertise and ability than you possess at this time. A simple, one piece, pouch type holster will provide you with the experience needed to progress to more complex designs down the road, and you know that this type of holster has served the gun toting public very satisfactorily for well over a century.

Now you NEED leather. There are all sorts of dead cow skin; latigo, bridle, chrome-tanned, oil tanned, tooling, rawhide, etc. Tooling, (or veg-tanned) leather is what you want, the others are generally tanned with chemicals, the residue of which can damage the finish of you shooter, or, for other reasons have proved unsuitable. How thick or how ‘heavy’ a piece of leather is need? For most handguns, 8/9oz leather is quite satisfactory. Leather is measured by the ‘weight’ of the stuff - - in ounces (oz). Each oz of weight is equal to about 1/64” in thickness, so you want a chunk of dead cow skin, vegetable (veg) tanned, about 8 to 9 64ths of an inch in thickness. You can do the math to convert to decimal designation or the metric system, but it ain‘t necessary. Leather also comes in differing qualities, and from different parts of the poor deceased critter’s hide. For holsters I recommend (as most makers do) shoulder leather. I also recommend that you look around as to suppliers.. There are quite a few dealers that advertise on this website. I personally use Springfield Leather. They’ll sell as little as two square feet of what you want. Many use the Tandy Leather Factory because of the availability of their stores - - (disclaimer here) I refuse to use their leather because IN MY OPINION they sell rather low quality stuff (to put it nicely).

You have your pattern and your leather, now you NEED something to use to cut out your pattern - - a damned sharp knife. One that is controllable enough to cut nice smooth curves, so your favorite chef’s knife from the kitchen ain’t going to work. A razor knife works well, a heavy-duty X-Acto knife, or even a box cutter with a new blade will do. Most homes seem to have something along this line that will work. Just make sure it’s SHARP.

After your (soon to be) masterpiece is cut out, you’ll want to smooth out those cut edges. Sandpaper will do the trick, so that’s another NEED. About 180 grit initially, will knock down the rough stuff, and a follow up with about 220 grit will smooth and round-over the edges well for burnishing. All you need for burnishing is a little water and a piece of coarse denim or canvas type cloth. A piece of smooth wood, or the smooth edge of a plastic pen will also help. OH, some elbow grease is also needed, but that doesn’t cost you anything.

Your first step in construction (after cutting) will be to fold the belt loop over and stitch it down. You should thin the bottom of the loop to blend it in to the back of the holster. It isn’t absolutely necessary, but makes for a more professional appearance. That can be done with your coarse sandpaper, and, again, elbow grease.

You’ll NEED something to stick the belt loop down and hold it in place for the next step. I suggest a small bottle of contact cement to do the job, and for another step later on.

With the loop stuck in place, you now should stitch it down solidly. First, you’ll NEED something to punch holes with. For nice stitching you’ll want to mark stitching holes evenly, and an easy way to do this is with a table fork. Moisten the back of the belt loop with a damp sponge, and carefully press the tine-points of a table fork around the lower perimeter, about 3/16” in from the edge of the loop and across the loop, leaving about 1 ¾” open for a belt. The holes are marked by indentation in the leather, and can give you about 5spi (stitches per inch) depending on how close the tines of the fork are to each other. The closer the better. Use of the same fork later will give you an even stitch length throughout your project. You can purchase all kinds of punches, chisels, awls etc. to make holes, but we are talking about doing this on the ’frugal’ side, without the purchase of anything other than that which is absolutely necessary. SO, lay that chunk of leather down on a piece of scrap wood, preferably smooth and clean, and drive a small diameter nail, carefully, into the center of each dimple. (I used small finish nails) ’Whoopee! Holes for stitching - - done.

For stitching you NEED needles and thread, and it is well worth getting the proper type for the job. Two harness needles (you’ll have to buy a ten-pac most likely) and a small spool of waxed LINEN thread is what you want. All leather supply outfits have them. I suggest size #0 or #1 harness needles. Again I suggest against using that “T” place, as many have experienced broken needles from them, and thread that decides to break at the least opportune time. Stitch away as described in the book you bought.

Many will like to have a nice, even dark tan color to their holster, and all that will require is to raid Ma’s kitchen larder for some olive oil and a little time. Dampen a clean rag with the oil and apply a light coat to the smooth (grain) side of the leather - - as evenly as possible. Lay it out in bright sunshine for a couple of days and the leather will tan up nicely and evenly (bring it in at night lest dew form on it). Remember that I initially indicated that patience was a virtue?? This will darken the leather just like a guy getting a suntan - - more time, darker tan. Also, this will allow your project to take on a wonderful darker patina as time goes on, one that cannot be done as well with dye.. If you take your time and work carefully, this holster is going last you many years and the older it gets, the better it will look, so time spent now is well worth the wait. You can, however, bypass this step and go on to the next.

At this time you want to make the pouch by folding over the front side and aligning the front and back edges Wet your leather down well under running water in the sink. Lay it down on the counter top with the inside (rough or ‘flesh‘) side up and wander off and ignore the fool thing for twenty minutes or so. This allows the water to uniformly penetrate the leather for ease of manipulation. Now fold the front over and align the edges as well as possible - - they most likely will NOT align perfectly - - and press down well at the fold. If you can find something smooth and with some weight (maybe an old telephone book?) sit it on top of the folded leather and chase mama around the house, brew some beer, milk a cow - - do anything to keep your mind off of it ’till tomorrow, when it’s dry. When fully dry, apply a line of the contact cement along each of the two (roughly) matching edges, allow to dry for a bit and stick them together, Press them down well, put the .phone book on that area for an hour or so to bond well. Sand those edges ’till they become one, even edge. Find your fork again and make an even row of dimples about 3/16” in from the edge of the front, all the way down the side of your rig. I personally leave the toe open on most of my holster because all kinds of stuff ends up down there over the years if it is stitched shut.

Well, it kind of looks like a holster now, so lets make it fit your shooter. Wet it down in the sink again and set it aside ‘till it begins to become lighter in color. That may take an hour or so, so do whatever you need to do to stay away from it for that long. I like to place the gun that the holster is made for into a plastic freezer bag before placing it in the damp holster. Stick that shooter in the rig and force it in as far as it will go, and by hand, mold the leather tightly around the gun. Place the rig in a place where warm air can flow over it to dry. After an hour or so, carefully remove the gun and replace the empty holster in an area to dry thoroughly - - like over night. In the morning, if dry (not cool or damp to the touch) apply a light coat of the olive oil from Ma’s pantry, and put the thing away for another 24 hours. (kind of difficult to do isn't it?) Now it’s time to apply a finish, and since we are working in the frugal mode, a hand rubbed coat of neutral shoe wax will work very well for fair-weather use. Rub it in all over, allowing the warmth from you fingers to get the wax into the pores of the leather, then buff the snot out of it with a soft cloth. FINISHED! You should be proud and happy as a witch in a broom factory.

Now, you have purchased an inexpensive book, leather, needles and waxed thread. You have made a useful item.You may have had to also buy some contact cement and sandpaper, but costs are at a minimum, you have gotten your hands on the leather, and know what to expect and what you can do with it. You now can make a knowledgeable decision as to whether you want to go on working with leather and spend the money to get the tools that make things easier. Hope this helped. Mike

Edited by katsass, 07 October 2012 - 04:50 PM.

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[Henry McCann]

I recently found this site and as an absolute leather working beginner, albeit it an old one at 57, I feel like I have found El Dorado. Instead of a city full of gold, it is awash with nuggets of leather ideas, skills, advice, knowledge and help. I feel bad for the OP that started this thread. Everyone that responded was very kind answering a question that I'm sure is asked every day, maybe every hour on this site.

I found your posts very helpful, especially katsass. Katsass your posts remind me of a guy I worked construction with. I knew I was learning when he only asked me two or three times a day, "How many times I had been dropped on my head", instead of every hour.

[katsass]

Mr. McCan, thank you for the compliment. One thing we all should realize is that there is a fine line between a case of the 'wants' and a true necessity. We can always talk ourselves into 'needing' something that we 'want'. I hope that you get as much pleasure out of working with dead cow skin as do I. Mike