ColtD Report post Posted August 7, 2013 I am relatively new to braiding, and 90% of my work has been with rawhide I make, except one side I bought to get started. My question is, I just got three really nice roohides from Charles Hartdke in El Paso and want to use them, But I haven't cut lace from anything but Rawhide. Do I need to section the hide up and use or avoid certain parts for certain parts of projects? Or, can I pretty much use the whole hide except the flanky area? Any advise is welcome and appreciated, and I look forward to getting a lot of help from this site. Been reading quietly on here for about a week since I don't usually like any kind of a forum...... But everyone seems to be helpful from what Ive seen.Thanks in advance, Colt Davis, Sabinal, TX Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
curlyjo Report post Posted August 8, 2013 Personally I trim around the edge and round it off and then start cutting around and around at between 6 and 7/32". You do have to watch for tiny knicks or scratches but the majority of the hide is good. I then run it through my hands and give every piece a tug to find where there might be a thinner spot. Most of my strings finish at 1/32 thick and 4/32 wide. I've had some hides that didn't need to be split but I generally split and take off the high spots. I also bevel the top just a tiny bit, just a personal preference. I just finished an all roo 3/8ths bosal, 12 strand with 1/32x4/32 body and 1/32x3/32 nosebutton and heelknot braided over a full 3/16 braided rawhide core. I've been a customer of Hardtke's for almost 4 years and they have the best prices. I had one problem with one Packer Hide and Mr. Packer himself called me from Australia and I sent it back to him and he sent me another so he could see what was happening. Thats service! Most of my Hackamores and Bosals are Rawhide with Roo buttons and I'm not going to change any thing for a while. Ask anytime and I hope this helps. Brad Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bucksnort Report post Posted August 8, 2013 (edited) I can't help with the roo, but wanted to say glad to have you on board. Look forward to seeing some of your work. Buck Edited August 8, 2013 by bucksnort Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhide1 Report post Posted August 8, 2013 I also trim my hide to either a circle or oval. Depends on the hide. If the hide feels pretty stretchy I'll cut my strings a lil wider than if the hide is pretty firm. I'll then stretch the string some and cut to my finial width. I then bevel the flesh side if my strings aint gonna be real small. After I bevel I'll split if needed.I also get my hides from Hartdke. Welcome aboard and I'm happy to share what I know. Although it aint much!! Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ColtD Report post Posted August 8, 2013 Personally I trim around the edge and round it off and then start cutting around and around at between 6 and 7/32". You do have to watch for tiny knicks or scratches but the majority of the hide is good. I then run it through my hands and give every piece a tug to find where there might be a thinner spot. Most of my strings finish at 1/32 thick and 4/32 wide. I've had some hides that didn't need to be split but I generally split and take off the high spots. I also bevel the top just a tiny bit, just a personal preference. I just finished an all roo 3/8ths bosal, 12 strand with 1/32x4/32 body and 1/32x3/32 nosebutton and heelknot braided over a full 3/16 braided rawhide core. I've been a customer of Hardtke's for almost 4 years and they have the best prices. I had one problem with one Packer Hide and Mr. Packer himself called me from Australia and I sent it back to him and he sent me another so he could see what was happening. Thats service! Most of my Hackamores and Bosals are Rawhide with Roo buttons and I'm not going to change any thing for a while. Ask anytime and I hope this helps. Brad Do you notice the string try to stretch and roll up when you get a ways into your heel knot, or other similar knots? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
curlyjo Report post Posted August 8, 2013 Not really. Heelknots go on somewhat loose and then I go back and tighten when finished. Nosebuttons pretty much tighten up while applying. I don't usually have to go back on a finished nosebutton. The strings never have stretched or rolled while building buttons. Brad Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted August 9, 2013 I have found that the cores need to be extra smooth in order to finish nice with roo. Rawhide will cover a core smoothly that will look bumpy and rough with roo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
