Adler Hand-Wheel Removal

[leftycasey]

Ok, I have a Ferdinand Bull that was built off of a Adler 205-64. I bought this used machine and discovered that the presser foot was not working properly (jump foot). In an earlier post, I was asking about adjusting the height of the walk and was given so much helpful information that I was able to fix the lift where it not operates correctly. The only problem I have left to fix is the timing on the presser foot lift. The foot begins to lift off of the leather before the needle begins to move the leather. Therefore, the foot is placed back down on the leather while the needle is still traveling backward with the leather. The presser foot is lifted by a bar connected to a groove in the hand-wheel.

I have looked for a place to adjust the bar but the two areas connected (red arrows in the picture) are pinned and do not have a set screw. Therefore, I don't see how I can rotate the position of the rod. However, I thought that I could rotate the hand-wheel on the shaft and that would alter the timing of the presser foot rod. I removed the screw from the hand-wheel and noticed that there is a cutout for a key to prevent the wheel from turning on the shaft. I could not see the key in the groove but the wheel is real thick (55 lbs.) and it might just be to the back. I figured if the key was missing, then the wheel could slip over time and cause the timing to be off. My problem was that I could not remove the hand-wheel and did not want to bang on it with a rubber mallet. Is there a better way to remove or change the timing?

Thank you so much for the help. I would just take this machine to a sewing machine repair shop but do not live close to one and it is so heavy to move.

[CowboyBob]

There should be 2 screws that go into the fylwheel & there should be at least one slot in the shaft for a screw to fit into,so if you loosen the screws hold the machine somewhere from turning & try to spin the wheel so the other screw will go into the slot it should get it back in time.

[leftycasey]

Bob i'm sure you are getting tired of my rookie questions, but I really appreciate the help. I have looked all over that flywheel and cannot find another screw. I know that Ferdco did a lot of modifications to the machine but the flywheel has Adler casted on it. Here is a picture of the Adler 205-64 parts list and it shows the screw at the end of the shaft just like mine. There also appears to be a key that fits into the shafts groove.

You mentioned holding the machine somewhere from turning while turning the flywheel. Where is a good place to hold the machine without damaging it?

Thanks again.

[Trox]

Is not possible to turn anything on the foot shaft, no allen screws on cam( pinch) or arm? What happens when you screws that foot bars spring collar on the top. When you move that upward is also makes the foot s timing a bit earlier (its must be the same as if the cam is lifting) What is that big screw behind the foot bar we do not see the end of in the picture?

[leftycasey]

I can not find any allen screws on the cam or arm that could be adjusted. It appears that everything is pinned with a roll pin. I guess this is to prevent any movement or slippage due to the spring pressure on the foot. There is very little adjustment for the foot bar spring collar on the top. I believe its purpose is just to apply some downward pressure on the pinch cam block so that it will return in its lowest position once the pressure is released by the arm. Trox, I'm not sure which big screw behind the foot bar you are referring to. Sorry that I am not more educated on the parts to be better able to explain.

I still think the flywheel has slipped thus causing the timing to be off. It appears that the flywheel has two purposes. It turns the main shaft and it has a groove that controls the pressure applied to the presser foot lift. I have tried to get The flywheel off but it really locked on and I do not want to start hammering on the wheel. I can only find the one screw attaching the flywheel to the end of the shaft. I know there has got to be another one but I just can't find it.

[Trox]

First; the hand wheel can not slip or move on these machines, thats not possible. ( I asked for a picture of the top of the machine, the screw I am talking about is on the top of the machine behind the foot bar. Every thing related to the foot bar will be important). I do not believe Ferdinand made these machine mod`s without possibility to adjust them. However, if he did that it means you got to adjust the rest of the machine to match the foot timing.You said the machine feed thinner material good, but failed to feed thicker. The knurled screw on the top of the machine that release the foots spring pressure, back it off until more than half of it is over the machine head. The foot height should be 12 mm when lifted by the hand lift ( on the original machine) make yourself an 12 mm. distance piece of leather or wood etc.. Take of the face plate, on the bottom of the foot bar (where the spring ends) its a block with a screw (or two). Lift the foot by hand and adjust the height to be equal with the distance piece. Please post a picture of the top and I will look at it later today. The original adjustment manual its full of errors as a result of bad translation, check the other models and comapare with them if you suspect writing errors in it. http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/205/s_204_gb.pdf

Tor

[leftycasey]

I understand the wheel can't slip because it is so tight on the shaft and I think there is a key in the slot to anchor. I have attached two pictures that I hope will help see the screw you are referring to. I know there has got to be a way to adjust this but I just can't find it. I know the machine was out of timing when I bought it and the seller said that he would fix timing first. I thought that I might have to adjust the rest of the machine to match the timing of the foot lift but this is probably beyond my knowledge. I did notice that the needle, shuttle, and feed dog are in proper timing. The machine feeds the same regardless of leather thickness. I can put thin or thick leather in the machine and it will let the presser foot down half way through the needle/ feed dog travel. (the foot lifts before the needle starts to push the leather and lowers before the travel is completed) Therefore, the foot leaves a mark on the leather where it is pressing down while the leather slides underneath.

Thank you Trox with your patience and help.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

See attached images below. Remove outside screw, also known as an adjusting screw. I think what we are missing is the two handwheel set screws. These are the screws that go through the handwheel, and set onto the to shaft going through the handwheel. See the 9205-10279, times two. These are on the outside of the handwheel on our MA2050, but appear to be on the handwheel inside on the pic. Either way, they will show up, and must use a metric hex key to remove. Often, on heavy sewing capacity machines such as these, these two set screws can mushroom, and expand where the screw bottom hits the shaft, over time. This can make things very difficult to remove the screws, and we often have to drill these out. If you can remove both screws, you should be able to either use a gear puller (see attached), or often you can get two large flat head screw drivers or the like and pry to handsheel away from the machine frame and bushing and out. Again, if you have mushroomed set screws, often the shaft gets buggered up, and can also make the handwheel difficult to remove. The screwdriver setup may not work, but the gear puller can power through most shaft distortions.

[leftycasey]

I was able to remove the flywheel with a gear puller. I should have thought of this. However, the only screw attached to the wheel was the one on the end of the shaft. The shaft did have a key and therefore I will not be able to rotate the wheel to get the foot lift in sync with the needle and feed dog.

Since, I have studied this machine for hours and can not find a adjustment on the foot lift timing, I will have to adjust the rest of the timing to the lift. I'm not sure where to begin on that one.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

See image below, not sure what aspect of the feed timing your looking for, but these two cam eccentrics (YELLOW) should get you where you need to go with some adjusting, and little playing around.

[sowilson]

I'm a newbee with an Adler 067 that I am attempting to change the timing belt.  I have the hand wheel  removed THANKs to photo provided in this thread by Greg from Keystone Sewing.  I assume the shaft needs to be removed in order to get the old belt off and the new belt on.   Can anyone provide me with photos or directions as to what to do next as I do not have a manual for my machine but this site has been very informative.  Thank You All for you input.  

[sowilson]

I'm a newbee with an Adler 067 that I am attempting to change the timing belt.  I have the hand wheel  removed THANKs to photo provided in this thread by Greg from Keystone Sewing.  I assume the shaft needs to be removed in order to get the old belt off and the new belt on.   Can anyone provide me with photos or directions as to what to do next as I do not have a manual for my machine but this site has been very informative.  Thank You All for you input.  

[Michiel]