Singer 153 W 103 Timing Info

[GerryR]

I have a manual for this machine, basically a user's manual, with some setup and adjustment information in it. I was wondering if anyone has a complete service manual that explains all the timing relationships between the top and bottom end and a sequence as to how to set the machine up as if one was building it from scratch.

Also, any information as to how to check the clutch. The manual states it is there to protect the hook assembly in case of a jam. When I had a jam, the hook bevel gears jumped and the bevel drive gear on the shaft moved away from the hook drive gear. Fortunately, nothing broke, but the clutch never released. There must be some procedures for checking this out, if not for this model, then maybe for a cloan or similar model.

Any help will be appreciated. Thank s in advance.

Gerry

[Ian1783]

This may have a bit more info for you, Gerry:

http://www.parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/153B8_153B8B.pdf

I, too, will be interested in what others may offer, as I have the same machine, but am waiting for parts before I'll be able to get into the adjustment stage.

Ian

SF Bay Area

http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

[gottaknow]

Hey Gerry. Here's a video I made describing the function and adjustment of the safety clutch for your 153. Hopefuly 10 minutes of the way I explain things won't make you leave the room screaming...heh.

I also have the manuals for these machines at the factory, but they really aren't that great. I'll look and see if there's something you could use other than what you find online.

Regards, Eric

[GerryR]

Eric, thank you for taking the time to post this. Interesting, the clutch on my machine does not have an adjustment screw, just two pins to hold the pieces in place. There isn't any play, but it requires King Kong to trip the clutch. As I stated above, the bevel gear on the shaft was forced to move along the shaft to disengage the hook drive gear when a jam occurred. Fortunately, neither of the gears were damaged. I figured there must be an adjustment / procedure, but evidently there isn't on my clutch. I'm wondering if the eccentric screw(?) pin is available?

Thanks again. I'm looking forward to whatever other info you can come up with.

Gerry

[gottaknow]

I do have what Singer used to call the "machinist" section of the manual. It's not that many pages so I'll scan and attach it here.

Regards, Eric

[gottaknow]

I was going to mention Gerry that a shot of oil on that small hub should make it trip easier. It's metal on metal and gets corroded.

Regards, Eric

[GerryR]

Eric,

Sorry for my delayed response; our web antenna died, and we just got a replacement. Thank you for the tips and I will appreciate the scan of the machinist's section.

Also, I was wondering if there is anyway for you to put a torque wrench on that shaft you used in the video, with the pulley in a vise, to tell at what torque the clutch trips. One would think that there had to be a spec for this, so they could be setup and tested. It would be nice to have a "number" to work to. Just a thought, not trying to make work for you.

I couldn't get the machine timed properly and found that by moving the clutch pulley to where the "other" screw was on the shaft flat, everything seems to be in time now (thread take-up lever at its highest point, etc.). Buy the "other" screw,I mean the following: If you look at the face of the clutch pulley with one screw at 6:00 and the other at 9:00, I moved the pulley so that the screw at 9:00 is at the shaft flat. I was then able to get the feed-dog cam and the hook timed properly. But, what still concerns me is if I get a jam ("hit a brick"), I am going to break something with the clutch the way it is now. (This machine was supposed to be "little used," "almost new." Right.)

Thanks again; you have been very helpful.

Gerry

[gottaknow]

I'm going to look through my 153's, 111's, 112's and see if I can find the clutch that you might have. The 153's should pop out sooner than the others. Make sure that entire unit is well oiled and moving good.

Regards, Eric

[thesergeant]

Eric, you posted this video?! I watched the video, in it's entirety, a month ago and was saying to myself "damn, this guy knows his stuff" -- I posted a comment on the video back then too, lol. I'd love to see a whole series of similar vids!

[gottaknow]

Eric, you posted this video?! I watched the video, in it's entirety, a month ago and was saying to myself "damn, this guy knows his stuff" -- I posted a comment on the video back then too, lol. I'd love to see a whole series of similar vids!

I'm working on several more videos to share. Been a busy summer! I'm glad you liked the video, I've been a mechanic for 33 years. Even with all that, I really am enjoying hand sewing my holsters.

Regards, Eric

[GerryR]

Eric,

Any luck find a clutch similar to what I have?

Gerry

[Constabulary]

Not sure but isn´t it the same clutch as in the 111w?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290766935542

I came across this offer while searching for parts for my 111G

But maybe Eric has one on hand as well.

Edited August 25, 2013 by Constabulary

[garagelifter]

I was just given a singer 111W153 my dad had it in storage for several years said it worked great when he last used it 3-4 years ago. I have never used a sewing machine before so it will be a learning experience . I may be soon posting stupid questions

[CowboyBob]

Gerry ,I wouldn't worry about that clutch not kicking when needed.You probably have the screws in the right position now since it's feeding correctly.If you want to see it trip put a wide tip screwdriver in between the 2-little pins (one has a cotter pin in Erics video) & the other one & turn it counterclockwise & it'll kickout.

[GerryR]

Thanks for the input. The clutch takes a huge amount of force to trip out. In fact, when I got a jam, the clutch never tripped and the hook drive gear on the shaft skipped over the gear on the hook causing the drive gear to slide back on the shaft, disengaging the the hook and throwing everything out of time. Fortunately, the gears survived. At that time, I took the clutch out of the machine and attempted to trip the clutch by hand. I had to put the clutch in a vice to hold it, while I tripped it with a screwdriver between the two pins. With the force required to trip it, there is no way it can protect anything.

I assume that there exists a release torque spec for that style clutch as the designers / manufacturers must have had to test them. I did email Singer about this, but do not expect much of an answer, because of the age of the machine. Because of this, it would be nice if I had a clutch on a shaft, as in the video, set up to what an experienced person considers the proper release torque. I could then measure the release torque with a torque wrench, and voila, I (we) would be able to test the clutches so they would actually protect the machines like they are supposed to.

Now that my machine is timed and running properly, it is probably not a big issue, until the next jam. That is why I am trying to get a handle on this tripping issue. The machine I have is in good condition, with little wear, and the clutch is clean and well oiled, but it doesn't have an adjustment screw as the one in the video. I may just get one like in the link posted by Constabulary to experiment with.

Gerry

[CowboyBob]

The presuure adjustment is a slotted pin(it looks like a screw) that holds the clutch spring on ,there's a set screw that runs against the belt so you loosen it & turn the slotted pin to adjust it.The part I'm talking about is @ the 5:00 position on the pic on the vid above.

[GerryR]

Thank you Bob. My clutch does not have the slotted eccentric adjustment pin, just a smooth pin. The clutch in the Singer 111 machine has the adjustment. I was trying to find just the slotted pin to make mine adjustable, but have been unable to do so. That is why I was thinking of getting a 111 clutch to experiment with.

Gerry