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thesergeant

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Everything posted by thesergeant

  1. thesergeant
    Some really great tables here. Uwe, that serger table is fantastic. Here's my latest table for my recently acquired Juki Double Needle, Split Bar, Needle Feed sewing machine. The head is probably 100 pounds and warped the original table it came with. I've been using solid walnut butcher block tops for all my other tables, and absolutely love them, but recently I was at Ikea and they had an 96"x25" 'countertop' for sale for in the scratch and dent area for $100. I couldn't resist. It's 1.5" chipboard with a 3/32" walnut veneer. I had to cut 2.5" off the front and back and redo the edgebanding but that didn't take long. After I made the cutout I tested the head in the top and it just about snapped the table in half. There was more than a 1/4" bend in the top and I knew it was just a matter of time before it started cracking like the last chipboard table top. There was just no way the material was going to be able to support this heavy of a machine head, especially with an oversize cutout. So, I welded a steel support structure around the perimeter of the cutout to support the machine. No risk of bowing/breaking and the table is rock solid. I thought the matte black legs would work well with the walnut and the black accents on the machine. I'm going to have to paint the legs on my Juki bartacker to match now though. The dimensions of the legs match my other tables, which were modeled after the original Singer H leg tables. I couldn't be happier and the top was MUCH cheaper than solid walnut.
  2. thesergeant
    looks great! mind if I ask why you're building the machine into the left side of the table instead of the right?
  3. thesergeant
    I just finished up some new table builds so I thought I'd share. Funny to see how far things have come since I first posted the thread wanting to use IKEA table tops. Thanks for all the inspiration, advice and motivation guys! Here are a couple shots of the completed copper legged table for my Pfaff 130. It's a 'light duty' table suitable for only machines of this size (~50#) with a light servo motor. With the scrap left over from cutting down the table top from 25" to 20" I was able to veneer the table for my Singer 114W103. I took the 5" wide piece and resawed it down on my bandsaw. Extremely happy with the results on this one: BEFORE: AFTER: Also, welded up some new legs for the bartacker and made a walnut top for that as well. I forgot to take 'after' photos but here it is before I welded feet on the bottom of the legs and then bolted on casters. I made it tall enough so the machine is used while standing. The foot is mounted to a block of walnut with rubber feet that you pull out from under the machine when you want to use it. The legs are pretty long so I'm considering adding a brace across the bottom for more stability. And finally, a vintage sewing machine display. Kee Klamp Industrial fittings, welded brackets and handmade box jointed walnut display boxes with 'matching' bookshelf:
  4. thesergeant
    Copper legged table is finished! I ended up adding a cross brace to the back and it added quite a bit of stability, thank you for the suggestions to do that! I'm probably going to drill and rivet some of the joints/tubes in place for some additional security as well. The top of the table is going to be walnut so I made a matching walnut foot pedal that is removable. I'm still thinking about the best method to attach the table top. I'll update the thread when I figure it out. The legs feel plenty strong with no real noticeable flex or give but they just don't have the heft of the steel legged table that I made previously. I picked up an o/a welding setup last week and am planning on make matching steel/walnut tables for the rest of our machines. This one is probably going to be the only copper legged setup and will be for a lighter duty machine, maybe our Bernina 950 or possibly our Bernina 217.
  5. thesergeant
    Great table setup UWE!! Beyond jealous of that CNC. Ya, Gregg, you're absolutely right about the treadle being raised with the addition of wheels. I was going to do this but never got around to it. Basically I was going to take take two pieces of walnut 1.25" x 1.25" x 3" (or whatever length is necessary to lower the treadle), then just drill out a .75" hole near the end of each piece for the treadle tube to go through. Drill and tap each 3/4" hole for a 'set screw" and then just bolt the spacer block to the frame and then then slide the tube in. Maybe I'll do that today and take some photos. I've grown accustomed to using it as is though. Also, if you have a K-leg table you can add casters to it without adding any height to the treadle. A friend of mine has 50+ industrials and has been experimenting with different ways of putting these machines on casters. I think this is proabably the best and cleanest execution I've ever seen. He basically cuts away the the feet of the k-leg and then cuts channels into the legs for a piece of hardwood (he's also used steel). The piece of wood then slides cleanly into the channel and it is bolted in place. The treadle is then lowered with a spacer block. Then just lower the table top as necessary.
  6. thesergeant
    Hey guys, so I was hoping to get some input on these table legs before I commit and solder everything together. Do you think I need a cross brace connecting the back two vertical legs? My concern is side to side rocking. I know I should have used flanges to mount the individual legs to the table top but they're absurdly expensive. Instead I'm going to use pipe straps on the corners of the 90* elbows and then drill out and put in two or three rivets connecting the pipe, elbow and straps together. These legs are for my Singer 114w103 vintage chainstitch embroidery machine. If they work out I'll be remaking all the legs and tops for all of our machines to match (per the bosses orders aka wife) The top will be a 1-3/8" walnut butcher block table top with a 50# industrial machine and 14# motor. Think I'm safe as is or should I add a cross brace along the back? Thanks guys!
  7. thesergeant
    Hi Guys, So I've done a few projects now and have realized at this point that a stitching pony is basically mandatory for smaller pieces. I downloaded a couple photos and bought the wood to make one when I realized that I had something that might work. In comes my vintage Zyliss woodworking vise. I simply double stick taped down a couple pieces of leather to some aluminum covers bent to match the profile of the jaws and it quickly converts the vise over for leather duty. Recently handstitched this leather sheath for my Gransfors Bruk Outdoor Axe and it make the process much, much easier. Just thought I'd share incase anyone out there has one or someone is in the market for a stitching pony but would prefer to spend a little more and have a more versatile tool.
  8. thesergeant
    I'm actually in the process of building a small version of their display in our cutting room. Going to have a Singer 101, 201, 301, 115, 15-88 and a wilcox and gibbs on it. By the way, if you're unfamiliar with the Singer 101, check it out: http://youtu.be/iyS1SEdjs50 It's easily one of the coolest vintage Singer straight stitchers I've restored. You can fast forward to the 14:30 mark to see the bed removed and to see the spider wicking system. Here's a smaller version of the All Saints display: I haven't decided how I want to build the bases yet thouhg. I'm going to build walnut bases with hinges for all the machines but I want to make the machines removable without having to unscrew 4 screws every time. We're going to do a matching pair, one with the machines and then another matching one with just flat walnut boards that will be a bookshelf.
  9. thesergeant
    Oh man, I would love to have access to a CNC for my tops. It would make the process soooo much less labor intensive and the end result would be much more precise. Not an industrial table but here's a preview of the "artisan table" from a Singer 1200-1 that I'm in the process of restoring. Repainted the legs white, applied waterslide decals to the legs and made a maple top. I still need to make the cutout for the machine but you get the idea.
  10. thesergeant
    Goodluck! Let us know how it turns out. Here's another shot of a table setup I made for an Adler 267 I setup for my mom. I routed out a cutout for her Singer 201 next to it. Both tables were made using birch plywood.
  11. thesergeant
    I still haven't received a response. I try their "HD@kwokhing.com", "spareparts@kwokhing.com" and "bosco@kwokhing.com" -- never got a reply. The order is probably $300 or so. May they're not longer interested in orders of that size? Maybe they're getting pressure from their retailers in the US to stop selling direct? Not sure. Anyone have any luck?
  12. thesergeant
    I would consider it, but it would have to be a local sale. If you're local (SF Bay) feel free to drop me an offer via PM.
  13. thesergeant
    Hi Guys, I have a Singer 29K171 on an original hollow leg combination treadle and motor powered Singer stand. Machine is in excellent condition and produces a beautiful 5mm stitch. Comes with several bobbins, needles, pair of threading rods and a homemade wooden table to convert the machine to a 'flat bed'. Right now the stand is sitting on a "mobile base" designed for woodworking tools so that I can move it around easily in the shop, that's what the wooden braces and metal end brackets are. The legs hollow and the table can be setup to run as a foot powered treadle or run via it's 1/3 HP Singer motor (currently hooked up). For the type of work I do I'm not using this machine as much as I would like to so I've decided to see if anyone is interested in a trade. I'm looking for a cylinder arm walking foot machine. My first choice would be a Pfaff 335 followed by an Adler 69 or 269. If you you have something let me know. Would be willing to do an outright trade or offer +/- cash with the 29k depending on the situation. Located in the San Francisco Bay Area. Thanks!
  14. thesergeant
    I placed an order a little over a year ago direct with Kwokhing for various parts. They responded within a day or two, forwarded me an invoice for the parts and shipped within a couple days of paying. I am on the hunt for some pretty specific style of folders and feet, which they carry, and I tried contacting them twice over the last 2 weeks and haven't received a response. Has anybody placed an order directly with them recently? Is Bosco still with the company? Thanks!
  15. thesergeant
    holy smokes that thing is gorgeous. out of my price range at the moment but i'm sure it's going to make someone very happy.
  16. thesergeant
    You need to match the stroke of the inner and outer foot. Here's a link to the procedure: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/121969/Pfaff-1245.html?page=51#manual Your machine may not be 7mm, it might be less. I use a stack of playing cards as a spacer, adding/removing them until both feet raise to the same height. Then I tape the stack together, write the thickness and throw it in my "adjustment tools" drawer.
  17. thesergeant
    Thanks for the feedback guys! Michael, the hole is located in the feed dog. If it wasn't there and was just solid I would have drilled it and tapped it with a small flat head screw and screwed the end of the binder plate in ( oversizing the hole in the binder plate to allow for movement)
  18. thesergeant
    Hey guys, so I thought I would share a design I came up with to help some people out who may be looking for a synchronized binder for their flatbed machines. As far as I'm aware they only exist for cylinder arm machines like the Pfaff 335 and others. This is the 'prototype' that was made using a Sailrite 3/4" right angle binder and scraps of maple that I had laying around. The setup works by using a pin at the end of the 'binder plate' that drops into the hole in the feed dogs. This keeps the binder a fixed distance from the needle and allows it to move with the stroke of the inner feet. The result is a consistent and perfect binder application on inside and outside edges with zero drop off. I'm in the process of remaking it using acrylic since it's cheap and easy to come by. My real preference would be to use aluminum or steel. Perhaps I'll consider it down the road. Just thought I'd share for those that are interested. Thanks!! Link to Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrPCpRm3niw
  19. thesergeant
    I was experiencing this same thing with my Pfaff 145-H4, which has the same presser foot tension assembly as yours. The pressure was extremely high and would "thump" the needle plate if I was sewing anything less than 4 layers of vinyl, multiple layers of leather, etc. I wish I would have seen this thread earlier as I could have saved you a trip to the mechanic. You actually don't need to cut the spring, you can loosen the set screw that holds the black cylindrical piece in place that the screw threads into. You can grab it with some vise grips and slowly back the piece out. I pulled it out all the way, measured it and put it back in making sure it went deep enough to contact the set screw.
  20. thesergeant
    Wizcrafts, thanks for the info! I had a feeling it was from that era. Surprisingly my 171 was built in Great Britain! I thought it was going to be a japanese made model before I picked it up and was surprised by the "made in" location. Constabulary, thank you for the suggestion! I didn't even think about shifting the upper body, that's a great idea. I've give it a look tomorrow.
  21. thesergeant
    Hi guys. I just finished restoring this Singer 29K171 and it runs beautifully and forms an excellent, tight and consistent stitch (long as well, 4.3mm). The only problem is that in order to time it properly, so that the hook catches the loop, I had to move the needle all the way to the right of the needle hole. It's not contacting the hook but it's close. Unfortunately it does touch the needle plate hole opening and I can't use a needle larger than 18 and can only use it in the 22-23 needle hole. Anyone have any ideas on how to remedy this? The hook appears sharp and long and I'm using 29x3 needles. I'm considering just filing open the holes further but don't really want to modify an original part like that. Any other suggestions? Oh ya, and does anyone know the years these 29K171s were manufactured? It feels like it was manufactured in the 60s,70s but I really have no idea. Here are some photos:
  22. thesergeant
    Thanks for the reply John! That's actually the same company I purchased the feed dog, needle plate and footset from. I didn't buy that particular kit because I already have a Sailrite right angle binder, which is basically the same setup as shown in the photo. Both of these setups work but position the binder mouth further away from the needle, in a fixed position, so I'm still getting drop off around tight corners. When I removed one slide plate screw and loosened the other to create a pivot point where the binder mounts to the plate the binder becomes a "synchro binder" in that it moves with the foot (by it rather) and the binder works flawlessly. Problem is the binder and the inner foot are rub on eachother, which I don't want. That's why I was inquiring about a dedicated synchro binder setup. Thanks again for the suggestion!
  23. thesergeant
    Does anyone know if a synchronized binder setup exists for flatbed machines (specifically a Pfaff 545)? I saw this video on youtube where someone made a DIY version. Their setup looks really effective and I'm considering making something similar but if a legitimate setup already exists I'd rather pay the money and have something nice. Seems like with his design he's relying on the forward motion of the inner foot to move binder forward. I don't really like the idea of the two having direct contact like that. I'd add a small pin to the bottom of the swingarm that would drop into the hole in the front of the feeddog to keep the distance fixed and to drive the motion. Has this been done by anyone? Thoughts? Making the Binder: Binder in Action:
  24. thesergeant
    Here are a few photos of "ElConquistador"'s method suggested earlier in the thread. The table feels very, very solid. I wish I wouldn't have refained from staining it though. I made the table from two scrap pieces of 3/4" "cabinet grade" plywood. Basically about $15 in wood.
  25. thesergeant
    awharness -- thank yoU! I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Post photos of your stands! It's great to see options and my table may not be an option for people without access to a welding setup. I'm in the process of following "ElConquistador"'s method of building a table top use (2) peices of 3/4" plywood. I just finished gluing and screwing the two halves together. I drilled clearance holes in the bottom board every 9" or so, applied about 16oz to the top board, leveled it out with a putty knife and then screwed the bottom half on. It's drying now. I'll post photos of the completed top when it's finished.
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