Thank You!

[vaalpens]

This is my first post on this forum, and all I want to say is thank you for all the helpful information I have received by reading the posting from members of this forum. I have never worked with leather before, but I have decided to try my hand at leather work , especially in the holster and sheath making fields. I had a lot of questions before I started my first project; what leather to buy, how to finish leather, the art of burnishing, the art of hand sewing, how to approach a project, tools to use, what to expect.

So my first attempt at leather work and my first project was a holster for my Sig Sauer SP2022. It is difficult to find holster for the SP2022 and I also had some ideas regarding cant and ride height that I wanted to incorporate. Also a holster is actually simple since you need the basic skills, a good design and no additional hardware. This is something I felt I could do without too much start up cost. Following are a few lessons I have learned: 1)Don't just measure twice and cut once, measure multiple time and cut once 2) Consider the thickness of your leather in your design. After I received my leather (8-9oz from Springfield Leather) I realized I had to adjust the design a bit, but I don't think I adjusted enough 3) Always think of the end product and what is on the outside 4) Practice hand sewing 5) Learn to get uniform stitching holes 6) Practice burnishing 7) Practice using the stitching groover

I know my first attempt is not that good, but the first attempt at leather work is not always easy since you have to do a lot of research regarding what to buy. So if anybody is just starting out and want to know what basic things I have started with, just let me know and I will provide list and links.

Following is my first attempt at leather work and my first project:

[Jeff L]

Nice little holster there... just be careful. It can be a very addicting hobby, enjoy.

[vaalpens]

Nice little holster there... just be careful. It can be a very addicting hobby, enjoy.

Thanks for the nice comments.

It is addicting but also very rewarding. I am already working on my next project which will be a matching magazine pouch. Making a mag pouch seems very simple, but I have realized that the forming part and the stitching location needs to be spot on for a decent result. So I am taking my time a bit to make sure I know exactly how I want to approach the project.

[Dwight]

Vaalpens, . . . most of us have patterns that over time we have adjusted in such a manner that we can predict with serious accuracy where the stitch line needs to go.

When we don't have that pattern, . . . we are forced to "form first - then stitch". I also do that to every gun holster that I don't have a really good pattern for.

Stitching first is a shot in the dark, . . . that usually is not to my standards.

Try forming it first, . . . letting it dry, . . . testing the fit, . . . then stitching.

May God bless,

Dwight

[vaalpens]

Vaalpens, . . . most of us have patterns that over time we have adjusted in such a manner that we can predict with serious accuracy where the stitch line needs to go.

When we don't have that pattern, . . . we are forced to "form first - then stitch". I also do that to every gun holster that I don't have a really good pattern for.

Stitching first is a shot in the dark, . . . that usually is not to my standards.

Try forming it first, . . . letting it dry, . . . testing the fit, . . . then stitching.

May God bless,

Dwight

Dwight,

Thanks for the great information. My holster was stitch first and then form, which was a shot in the dark like you stated. My first mag pouch will definitely be form first and then stitch. The only thing I need to decide now is if I want to apply the dye before or after the form. The holster dye was applied before the forming process.

[jessebeckham]

I would say dye after wet forming. IUf you are using water based dyes, Like most, then that will prevent the dye from running. I usually, layout, mold, dye, then stitch. I stitch last because I like a good clean white stitch.

[vaalpens]

I would say dye after wet forming. IUf you are using water based dyes, Like most, then that will prevent the dye from running. I usually, layout, mold, dye, then stitch. I stitch last because I like a good clean white stitch.

I am using the alcohol-based dye and there was a little bit of bleeding when I did the wet forming. I think you helped making up my mind to mold and then dye. This will also be a learning experience and will show me if their is any difference in the color between mold then dye, or dye then mold. The stitching after dye makes sense especially if you want to show some contrast between the thread and leather color.

Thanks for the good advise!

Edited August 23, 2013 by vaalpens

[jessebeckham]

Remember that's just how I do it, others may have different/better processes... Be sure and keep us updated!

[vaalpens]

I have finished the second project and did a few things differently:

• Formed then stitched
  
• Formed then dyed
  
• Burnish the edges before applying the dye to the edges
  
• Wet with brush before using overstitcher
  

Lessons learned from doing it differently:

• I could not use my groover after the forming since there was not enough space
  
• Seems like the color is a bit lighter if you dye after forming, but it could also be that I used less dye
  
• It seems that the edges looked better if you burnish before dye instead of after the dye
  
• Wetting before using overstitcher seems to work better. You can control it better with the leather being soft.
  

Following are some pictures:

Edited August 27, 2013 by vaalpens

[adaman04]

Very nice!

[Jeff L]

Nice dye job! What color/brand of dye is that?

[vaalpens]

Nice dye job! What color/brand of dye is that?

Thanks. I have just been using the Fiebing's regular dye (alcohol based), dark brown.

http://springfieldleather.com/18542/Dye%2CFieb%2CReg%2CDk-Brown%2C4oz/

[leatherjunkie]

looks good. remember one thing the dyes are designed to give the right color by oil.

after dying apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil and let dry 24 hours keep applying till you get the color to your liking.

always apply light coats and let dry overnight. after you get the color to your liking let dry for 24 hours then apply your finish.

[vaalpens]

looks good. remember one thing the dyes are designed to give the right color by oil.

after dying apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil and let dry 24 hours keep applying till you get the color to your liking.

always apply light coats and let dry overnight. after you get the color to your liking let dry for 24 hours then apply your finish.

Thanks for the excellent how-to tips.

I am just a novice with only two completed leather projects under the belt. The aim is to do small projects trying out different methods, especially the finish which is something I definitely need to learn and improve on. My two projects I just dyed the leather and then applied some clear shoe polish after everything was done. My plan is to also do a natural, no dye finish, at which time I was planning on starting to use neatsfoot oil. The method you described is probably what I will try next so I can compare it with my current dye results.

If I may ask, what type of finish do you put on top of the dye and neatsfoot oil?

[ryankim3612]

looks good. remember one thing the dyes are designed to give the right color by oil.

after dying apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil and let dry 24 hours keep applying till you get the color to your liking.

always apply light coats and let dry overnight. after you get the color to your liking let dry for 24 hours then apply your finish.

THAT is something I did not know (like alot of things).......Thank you Junkie

[leatherjunkie]

forgot to mention when you put the neatsfoot oil on your project do it after you let the dye dry for 24 hours.

take some scrap leather and dye it then cut it into a few pieces and do the oil treatment to the scraps. each piece of scrap add more oil to it. this way you can tell how the oil affects the color with the times of oiling.

you can use super shean, leather balm with atom wax, bag kote, whyosheen.

i like to use leather balm with atom wax just dont use it on top of your project with antique paste. the leather balm with atom wax will pull the antique color off of the leather.

[TwinOaks]

The lighter dye may also be a product of molding first. When you mold the leather, you are stretching some of the fibers, and compressing others. Either action will effect how the fibers take the dye.

[vaalpens]

I have just completed another small project where I replaced the belt loop on my BK2 sheath. I tried to keep this as simple as possible and only used olive oil, some time in the sun and then some kiwi polish on it. I also installed a snap for the first time. The keeper strap implementation is an idea I saw on a knife forum from Dwayne Puckett and Nick. The belt loop actually has two 1.75" slots to alter the carry height. I wasn't to concerned about the edges since it will be used outside, but maybe I'll put some edge kote on just to seal it a bit.