Spray Setup

[Cyberthrasher]

Hey, if it doesn't work, I can always use it to paint the shop building . I have an inexpensive single action airbrush. I would have to swear off the Dickel if I tried to use a double action airbrush at this stage. Gonna try to get in some practice time soon.

Double action will serve you better for detail work, but for general color and fade stuff, a single action will be fine for now. It all requires practice though.

[BigJake]

If I remember correctly the HF gun has a .8 or .1 spray nozzle (should say on the front of the nozzle). Springfield leather has a gun on sale now which has a .5 nozzle which is about as small as it gets with this type of gun. There is a balance of air pressure at the gun, nozzle size, viscosity of the material being sprayed, for the material to atomize correctly and not wind up as big drops on your leather. I suggest buying a mini regulator with a gauge and attach to your gun. Adjust the pressure at the gun to 15 or 18 PSI with the trigger pulled as a starting point. Adjust the material feed knob down to where it barely sprays, adjust your fan width down about 1/2 way. Spray some dye on a scrap of leather and adjust the air pressure until you get good atomization. This will be about as good as your gun will do.

The better known manufactures of air brushes mave models with larger tip sizes available which would close the gap between the airbrush and the gravity feed spray gun. The airbrush being small and the spray gun bigger, at best. Siphon feed will not cut it for our use, gravity feed will handle heavier material all things being equal. Top coats like Resolene, Bag Kote, etc. will require thinning about 50/50 and I suggest going down to yout local auto paint supply store and asking for some disposable paint strainers. Strain your top coats when filling your gun or airbrush as this stuff gels fairly quickly and will plug the nozzle.

[Red Cent]

I did a holster with the airbrush and an aerosol can. Looks real good. I believe it is a Badger model. I might spring for an inexpensive DA airbrush.

[Red Cent]

I have found that the airbrush does well if you are careful not to overlap too much. I am using Fiebings spirit dye and it applys well. I don't want (I think) to go to oil dye but I may. It seems that the spray gun will almost cover the holster with one motion and make it easire to cover evenly.

Would someone please post their success with the spray gun. Or tell us what is wrong with the spray gun?

[Cyberthrasher]

Or tell us what is wrong with the spray gun?

Would you use a 4" paint brush to apply your dye? The problem with it is the AMOUNT of color/finish being sprayed (not to mention the waste as a result of overspray). Both color and finish should be built up to achieve the desired results using light coats. Using an automotive spray gun is applying a LOT of color/finish. For coloring, you'd be better off dip dying - which won't have the added cost or waste due to overspray. For finishing, again there's the waste, but more importantly, the spray gun will put so much on that you'll risk having a "plastic" finish that will be more likely to crack over time.

In regards to overlapping too much, just thin your dye so it's not applying so heavy in any one spot. The main problem with any sprayed application of dye is that it doesn't soak into the leather very far. The best way to remedy that is to cut your dye 50/50 and build up the color, BUT, also start with a further cut down mix for the first coat (25/75). This will allow the color to be pulled in to the leather more as you're building up your coat.

[RiverCity]

Would you use a 4" paint brush to apply your dye? The problem with it is the AMOUNT of color/finish being sprayed (not to mention the waste as a result of overspray). Both color and finish should be built up to achieve the desired results using light coats. Using an automotive spray gun is applying a LOT of color/finish. For coloring, you'd be better off dip dying - which won't have the added cost or waste due to overspray. For finishing, again there's the waste, but more importantly, the spray gun will put so much on that you'll risk having a "plastic" finish that will be more likely to crack over time.

In regards to overlapping too much, just thin your dye so it's not applying so heavy in any one spot. The main problem with any sprayed application of dye is that it doesn't soak into the leather very far. The best way to remedy that is to cut your dye 50/50 and build up the color, BUT, also start with a further cut down mix for the first coat (25/75). This will allow the color to be pulled in to the leather more as you're building up your coat.

I disagree. If you're just dying wallets and the like then yes, an airbrush would be sufficient. Covering large areas the gun is more than fine. The guns are adjustable, there isn't much overspray at all. I spray dye all of my cases (50-50 or less dye than that sometimes) when an even color is asked for. I hand dye only when I want a mottled color. And as for acrylics/resolene, again, 50-50 and there is no problems laying down light coats. I've used this system for months with zero problems.

The middle case is hand dyed, he wanted an antique look, the other cases were gun dyed. And all of them were gun finished.

Chuck

[Red Cent]

Thanks RiverCity. I am sure I have a lot to learn using either method. But I am also convinced the gun has its place. Maybe a better airbrush but I am going to try the gun.

[Cyberthrasher]

I disagree. If you're just dying wallets and the like then yes, an airbrush would be sufficient. Covering large areas the gun is more than fine.

Ok, so point of clarification. What type of gun are you using/referring to here. Every automotive spray gun I've ever used would more than saturate those cases, or over spray ridiculously if you backed off enough to no saturate it. But, I do know there are different types/sizes out there. So, I'm willing to concede on that point.

[Red Cent]

Cyber, I cannot include the spray gun I bought in an auto spray gun class. It is an inexpensive gravity fed gun that I have not used. I keep putting it off because it uses "oil" paints only.

Recently I sprayed a holster with the "airbrush" but I had to continue to cover the holster completely time and time again to get a "continuing" color. Dark brown. Every pass produced a strip of different color until I had it so dark it didn't matter.

Eventually, I will try the gun and see what I can accomplish. In my brain, there is a scene where after a couple of passes with the "gun", I can stop and enjoy an even and "different" look but not a mottled mess. I am not concerned with a little waste.

Hey, I can see where you are coming from but the Type A personality has to go for it.

[RiverCity]

Ok, so point of clarification. What type of gun are you using/referring to here. Every automotive spray gun I've ever used would more than saturate those cases, or over spray ridiculously if you backed off enough to no saturate it. But, I do know there are different types/sizes out there. So, I'm willing to concede on that point.

The cheapo 9 buck harbor freight gun. I posted a pic earlier in the thread. It has no problem laying down light coats of dye or acrylic.

Chuck