Question On Head Knife.

[dirtclod]

Can you use one of those ez-pull kitchen knife sharpener to sharpen a head knife? I just can't seem to get the hang of sharpening mine. I think I'm getting it sharp but it doesn't cut worth a darn. So I thought about using one of those EZ sharpeners. Has anyone tried one yet?

Thanks,

Tom

Tom if you have a bench grinder get a buffing wheel and some buffing compound. Load the wheel with compound and dress the edges on your knife. MAKE SURE YOU WORK BELOW THE CENTER LINE OF THE BUFFING WHEEL OR IT WILL TAKE YOUR KNIFE AWAY FROM YA !!!!

[keplerts]

Dirtclod

I'll give that a try. But, don't I have to have it sharp BEFORE using the buffing wheel?

Tom

[dirtclod]

Yes sharpen your knife before the buffing wheel. The wheel is like a super strop, if your knife isn't in really bad shape using the wheel should help it anyway.

[Tex Shooter]

Just a little warning about buffing wheels! Be careful not to over heat your blade and take the temper out. I have had guys get there pocket knife super sharp at gun shows on a buffing wheel only to find out later that the edge don't last because of losing there temper. If your edge don't hold up in hard leather on a older tool, it probability is because someone was not careful about not getting the blade hot. I have a old Ka-Bar knife that has that problem and its blades have been buffed by someone in the past. It is not always easy to tell when a cutting edge is getting too hot. When I was demonstrating sharpening techniques One of the things that I would do is run a knife edge by hand on a dry India stone in total darkness and you could the edge heat up red for a couple of thousands back. The only salvation is it cools so fast that it tends to re-temper its self, but sometimes so hard that it chips. These things can be seen under a microscope. With reasonable care you should not have a heating problem, but be aware that you can. One other thing. Some of the fine German and custom knife manufactures have learned that steel grain structure in cutting edges sharpen and work better if 45 degrees to the edge. A good rule when sharping wet and slower is better than fast and dry. -- Tex

[FlHobbyist]

...Some of the fine German and custom knife manufactures have learned that steel grain structure in cutting edges sharpen and work better if 45 degrees to the edge.

I'm a little confused. I thought that something like a hunting knife should be around 22 degrees, and that a round knife should be somewhere between 16 and 20 degrees. If I remember the swivel knives are sharpened to around 30 degrees. 45 sounds like a very large angle for a knife.

[Tex Shooter]

I was talking about direction of the steel grain structure and not the sharpening angle. -- Tex

[FlHobbyist]

I was talking about direction of the steel grain structure and not the sharpening angle. -- Tex

Aha! I thought I was missing something. Does overheating the steel cause the direction of the steel grain structure to change? And, is there any way to tell what the direction is without a bunch of laboratory equipment?

[eglideride]

Picked up this CS Osborne for $25.00 at Montgomery MO. Old threshers show(steam engines and tractors) from an antique tool vendor...the rawhide mallet was had for $1.00. Found a smaller one for $25.00 at an antique store....some folks don't know what they are. So, my secret is out....rats, probably wont find anymore deals!

And yes, it needed sharpening. But both are in GREAT shape and love the patina of a used tool...

[evaengineer]

So, I'm at a slight impasse here. I've narrowed things down to two choices. 1.) Getting a more expensive knife (with a budget of around $100) or 2.) Getting a cheaper knife along with sharpening materials. I'm leaning a lot closer to the second option, but I'm in the dark with it; I don't know what kind of sharpening tools I need (strop, stone, etc.), and I don't know what price I would want them at. I hope it's not too much to ask, but would anyone here be able to help me with choosing what kinds of tools I'll want? I'm thinking of just getting a cheaper ~$48-$60 Osbourne for a starter.

Some things to note for anyone willing to help. First, I have never sharpened a knife before (sad, I know), but at least I am learning now. If you can give advice on what sharpening tools I'll want, I would greatly appreciate it. Second, if helping with choosing tools, I don't like to buy from China or Hong Kong, or most of Asia for that matter. I have purchased leatherworking supplies from Great Britain and Canada before without any problems.

Thanks much so far for the help everyone! I know this request for helping me with an online shopping cart might seem a bit excessive, but I learn best when I learn from an example.

[silverwingit]

You'll get much further with a less expensive knife and some sharpening equipment and skills than you would with the most expensive knife in the world with no way to sharpen or strop it.

$100 is still bare bones budget but it will get you started. If I were in your shoes, here's what I'd do.

1) CS Osborne Head knife. $49.00

http://www.zackwhite.com/Osborne-Head-Knife_p_812.html

2) DMT 8" Fine sharpening stone $48.61

http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8F-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0001WP1LK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_2

3) Green honing compound. $9.99

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Green-Honing-Compound-P26C11.aspx

4) Study this sticky post by list member Art on making a strop and make one for yourself. The bigger the better when it comes to sharpening a head knife. (And you don't have to use horsehide. I actually like mine made with veg-tan belly leather better. It takes the sharpening compound better in my hands.)

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=36221

5) Study this video by forum member Paul Zalesak on how to sharpen a head knife.

Now, mind you, this is a starting point for sharpening equipment (and even then you'll have to save some lunch money for the shipping). The fine stone will get you most of the way. Ideally you would follow that with sharpening on a DMT extra fine stone before you start stropping. But you can get most of the way there with the fine stone and then make up for not having the extra fine with some extra elbow grease in the stropping phase. Once you get the knife sharp you shouldn't have to re-sharpen it for some time, given proper care and regular stropping each time you pick up the blade.

You'll just have to trust me about he adequate quality of the Osborne blade. It's forged and well tempered. I like mine a lot. The diamond stone will only improve with age. Don't try to cheap out with a smaller stone or a natural Arkansas stone. You'll be frustrated and unhappy if you do.

Good luck and let us know what you decide and how you fair.

Michelle

You'll get much further with a less expensive knife and some sharpening equipment and skills than you would with the most expensive knife in the world with no way to sharpen or strop it.

$100 is still bare bones budget but it will get you started. If I were in your shoes, here's what I'd do.

1) CS Osborne Head knife. $49.00

http://www.zackwhite.com/Osborne-Head-Knife_p_812.html

2) DMT 8" Fine sharpening stone $48.61

http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8F-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0001WP1LK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_2

3) Green honing compound. $9.99

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Green-Honing-Compound-P26C11.aspx

4) Study this sticky post by list member Art on making a strop and make one for yourself. The bigger the better when it comes to sharpening a head knife. (And you don't have to use horsehide. I actually like mine made with veg-tan belly leather better. It takes the sharpening compound better in my hands.)

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=36221

5) Study this video by forum member Paul Zalesak on how to sharpen a head knife.

Now, mind you, this is a starting point for sharpening equipment (and even then you'll have to save some lunch money for the shipping). The fine stone will get you most of the way. Ideally you would follow that with sharpening on a DMT extra fine stone before you start stropping. But you can get most of the way there with the fine stone and then make up for not having the extra fine with some extra elbow grease in the stropping phase. Once you get the knife sharp you shouldn't have to re-sharpen it for some time, given proper care and regular stropping each time you pick up the blade.

You'll just have to trust me about he adequate quality of the Osborne blade. It's forged and well tempered. I like mine a lot. The diamond stone will only improve with age. Don't try to cheap out with a smaller stone or a natural Arkansas stone. You'll be frustrated and unhappy if you do.

Good luck and let us know what you decide and how you fair.

Michelle