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Need Help With Consew 2050 Stiching

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I'm new to this machine and i can't get it to stich right. i've been at it all day trying to figure it out but i cant get it. The knot on the stich shows up on the top and i don't know how to fix this. i'm using needle size 23 with 207 thread on top and bottom. please someone tell me what im doing wrng here. i would really appreciate any help....thanks

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The picture shows a single layer of thin leather, try doubling or the leather to get at least 12 0z or more. Being it is new to you, do you have it threaded properly? Knots on top means loosen top tension.

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i followed Weavers guide to threading a adler 205. i increased the tension and i even tried two and three layers and still the same. the tension seems ok but then i tried it with alot more but still no diffference. all i know is that i'm going through alot of thread trying to trouble shoot this....haha...

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i followed Weavers guide to threading a adler 205. i increased the tension and i even tried two and three layers and still the same. the tension seems ok but then i tried it with alot more but still no diffference. all i know is that i'm going through alot of thread trying to trouble shoot this....haha...

As mentioned above, reduce the top tension. It is too tight and pulling the knot right through. If the tension disks are loose, remove a wrap from around a guide post too. Make sure the thread is pulling off the spool and not getting hung up.

Tom

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If none of the above work, check the bobbin thread to make sure it is feeding under the tension spring on the bobbin case. Tighten the bobbin tension if necessary to lower the knots..

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the thread is pulling freely from the spool with out any tension until practically it arrives at the disk tensioner. i think i have the tension ok...not to hard to pull. now that you mention it Wiz, i'm not sure if the bobbin right?? i have it feeding through the middle of the case...is that wrong? do you mean the hole at the very bottem of the bobbin case??? and if needed how do i tighten the tension on the bobbin??

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Sorry, but I'm not familiar with that model. But, every bobbin case should have a smallish, mostly flat spring at the end of a slot, where the thread feeds through on its way out of the case. You must feed the bobbin thread under that spring to have any tension on the bobbin thread. If you haven't done this, or, if the spring is missing, you won't be able to control the position of the knots.

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Okay, I found some details about the machine. It is a clone of an Adler 205. The bobbin case is much like the one in my Cowboy CB4500. It opens on a hinge pin to insert or expel the bobbin. There should be a long slot on a diagonal, running from the edge of the case to a leaf-like spring. One end of the spring is simply screwed down to the end of the case. The other end has an adjustment screw going through an elongated hole in that end of the spring. On my machine, a set screw locks down the adjuster screw. You may need to use a flashlight to locate a locking screw, loosen it, then tighten the action of the main bobbin case tension spring. It should have a moderate amount of tension, requiring a smooth, but steady pressure to pull the thread out of the case.

Most of us insert the bobbin against the direction of the slot, so the thread has to make a sharp turn into the slot. This is done to appease the Hobbits.

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ok, i'm not sure if i understand you correctly but there's two scews inside the bobbin one smaller than the other. the larger one goes all the through the shaft thats in the middle of the bobbin...is that the screw your reffering to.???

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We have a failure to communicate. The spring that sets the tension is on the outside of the bobbin case. You can see a photo of it on this web page - for the Adler 205-370 compatible model HAD-204 Large barrel shuttle hook.

The spring you photographed is a beehive internal spring used to help eject bobbins from the case. Did you get an owner's manual or any documentation with your machine?

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i finally figured out what you were talking about but after loosening the locking screw i tried to tighten the tension but only turned about 1/4 of a turn. so then i keep messing with it and rethreading the machine over and over.....i mistakenly forgot to run it through the top tensioner and it sewed so much better. so i ran it through the tensioner and bearly put any tension on it and the knots are alot less visible. I've been tweaking with it but it's so sensitive. moving the nob less than 1/4 makes a big difference..i just cant seem to make the stiches really nice and tight witout the knots show up on top...but i'll keep tweaking with it.

. this is such a great site filled with a great wleath of knowledge from you guys...thank you all

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Here is a close up shot of my shuttle, showing the bobbin thread coming out from under the bobbin case tension spring.

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The thread must feed through the diagonal slot in the case, until it passes under the center of the spring. The spring tension screw is visible on the upper right edge of the spring. If it is too tight to turn, locate the small set lock screw to one side, in a hole and loosen it. Adjust the tension downward for more pressure, until you have to exert a smooth, but definite pressure to pull the thread out of the case.

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i was able to adjust the tension a little more on the bobbin and i finall got the top tensioner kinda set. the stiches look alot nicer and the knots aren't visible on either side. i just need to tweak it a little more because the stiches seem they could be tighter.

what does the tensioner on the side do? its got felt on each side of the case that the thread wraps around. is the case suppose to roll with the thread while its moveing or only the thread suppose to move and not the case together??

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That lower roller disk setup is to add a little more controlled top tension, or not. I usually run mine fairly loose, unless I'm sewing something very thick. Then, I'll twist on some spring tension on the bottom disk. You have to double wrap the thread around it for the tension to matter.

Get the bobbin tension right, then the top disks, then fine tune with the lower disks, if needed.

Also, if the check spring is way too strong, it affects the top tension.

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well, after all your help i was able to get it dialed in good. i did adjust the bobbin tensioner with less and then messed with the top tensioner until the stiches started to look great..thanks Wizcrafts.

i'm afraid of moving anything now....lol but do you think i'll have to do this all over again when i need to change to 277..????

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