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Pointers Anyone

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Well, I have not posted in a while but have been reading regular. Since my last post, I started stitching with an awl and the difference is amazing. working on several different areas and learning (the hard way) with each holster. Started using a round knife as well and that takes some getting used to as well.

Any pointers or opinions are welcome.

Something I have experience twice now is the gun not seeming to fit inside the holster when I go to forming it. I actually hurt my back getting one in and thought this will never work. Seems to be the ones that seem to tight wind up being better once formed. but it sure can be frustrating thinking that it wont fit. I dont know which is better, to loose just does not seem to have good end results.

Well and pointers are welcome and thanks

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Back when I was doing them that way I would take a dead blow hammer to the back of the blue gun to seat some of them. I don't suggest it with an actual gun though. I do mine very differently know, even the avengers, setting the stitch lines and stitching is done after the molding. It has it's pros and cons.

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I had thought about doing the stitching after molding, actually I had one that was to loose so I added a stitch line after molding. My question is about the drawbacks. I assume it would have to be cemented and set up to form and then I wonder if I would wid up with cement inside the holster and would the cement hold to a good fit without coming apart?

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It sounds like you have some discrepancies with your stitch line layout and placement. A general rule for layout is 1/2 the thickness of the item + the thickness of leather. That WILL depend on the hide's firmness, how well it takes water, and how long you let it rest after being soaked.....I suggest between 5 and 10 minutes to let the water fully soak all the fibers.

Once you start molding, you can " prestretch" areas by pushing your mallet handle down into the holster very much like making a pilot hole. On the molding.....your gun should be wrapped in a few layers of saran wrap, or in a ziploc type bag when you mold. The leather is likely to shrink just a little, and the few thousandths of space created by the plastic wrap is usually enough extra space so that it doesn't shrink too much when drying.

Also critical is the amount of molding detail you're after. There is such a thing as " too much detail ".

This thread, although for a different style pistol, is worth reading as it covers several remedies:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34363&hl=+holster,%20+rail#entry213048

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The measurement given by Twin Oaks is the standard most of use. I have also tried the stitching after molding, and have had good luck, but still prefer to have all the stitching done prior to molding. That's me. It doesn't hurt to be comfortable with both methods. Also, when building a pattern, be pretty accurate when transferring your stitch line to your leather. That has caught me a couple of times.

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thanks for the replies. Yes I have my measurements down pretty good. The pattern had been used before and then i gave some more wiggle room when I transferred the stitch line (1/8 in) because it was a thicker leather.

Seems like I make major advancement in some areas and then there are always areas that need work. Over all it is getting better with each one.

Thanks again.

Any critiques on the holster itself?

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I hand stitch, so the main con is not a problem yet. But it would take specific presser feet to sew up to the molded leather with a machine. My mag holders are stitched before molding. I have found you use less leather with that style of pattern. I use more leather if I mold the front before stitching. It's not bad, but you need a looser pattern to allow the leather to move around and still cover the back piece of the holster. Right now, the pros outweigh the cons for me. I get good tight stitch lines because I'm not guessing where the gun will be, you just trace around the mold.

Edited by chiefjason

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