Awl, Drill, Or Chisel Awl

[rundogdave]

For those that sew by hand, do you use an awl, a chisel type awl, or drill? If drilling, what size drill bit do you use? And do you groove the back side of the stitching? Thanks.

[Effuse]

While I am new to the hobby, I use a diamond shaped awl to make my holes after marking them with an overstitch wheel. From what I hear drilling leather is fine as long as its a fairly thick piece of leather as to not weaken the leather (Drilling removes leather where as using an awl just displaces the leather). And I'm pretty sure grooving just comes down to which look you prefer unless whatever your making is going to see a lot of friction in which case you would want to groove the leather so that the stitches aren't constantly being rubbed. Hope I helped.

[Tex Shooter]

For me it depends on what I am sewing and what I am going to do with it. Here are some factors that enter into the equation. 1) What kind of leather? 2) Am I going to try to sell the item and for how much money? 3) How thick is the item to be sewed? 4) What is the leather temper? 5) How strong is the leather? 6) What style of sewing? (butt, lap, etc.) 7) Will the item be formed? 8) how many layers of leather? 9) What kind of thread or cord will I be using? Plus more factors. As you get more experience a lot of factors are automatic. For some of the items that I sell cheap with 4/5 oz chrome or oil tanned tanned leather I use a chisel. For Items that for myself or I want to get more money for I will prick mark and use awl. On thick and multiple layer items a awl or a drill is a must. -- Tex

[Matt S]

Pricking iron and a diamond awl. Every time.

[Narvi]

They all work and all have advantages and disadvantages. Sometimes I use a dremel-type tool with a mini drill press stand to make holes - this gives a dead straight stitch but looks kind of boring, like machine stitching. Also, on a large projects it can be tedious to mark and drill so many holes. On the plus side, it works great on multiple layers of leather.

The diamond stitching chisels from Tandy are fast to use and look pretty good. But on thicker leather the holes are much bigger on the front side than on the back, so you get a decorative slanting stitch on the backside of the work but the stitches sit down in those deep holes on the front side and look straight.

I don't use a stitch wheel because I've had too many problems getting consistent markings, but sometimes I use the stitching chisels like a pricking iron, just to mark the holes without going all the way through the leather. Then I use an awl to complete the holes. This give the prettiest stitch - a nice decorative slant that looks the same on both sides of the work. The downside is that using the awl lengthens the stitching time considerably, maybe by 50% or more vs using the stitching chisels to make holes all the way through the leather. If time is not an issue, this is the best way to go IMO.