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Posted

Well after "salvaging" my first attempt I knocked out two more. My first one I tried quite a few different things on, drilling, punching, how to burnish etc.. Didn't really like the shape and whipped out another, ended up just neatsfoot oil and resolene but waaay too shiny. Now my third holster actually I think is quite respectable. But I'm not sure what to use as a finish? I don't want it shiny, I just dyed, applied neatsfoot but now what? Can I use Kiwi neutral as a final finish? Any comments appreciated.

First try... Kind ugly! (Glock 23)

20130909-DSC_1829-2.jpg

Second try, good shape but too shiny! Not really digging the color either... (Glock 23)

20130918-DSC_1839-2.jpg

Third try... This one I actually like!!! It's actually for a gun I own and carry too (Glock 27). The first two I used the only blue gun I own since I was messing around. The second holster actually was made for my XDm but I couldn't fit it in... :oops:

20130918-DSC_1837-2.jpg

20130918-DSC_1838-2.jpg

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Posted

They look great I love the third one as well did you use a sewing machine if so wich one and what kind of thread?

Ralph

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Posted

No machine. Laid out holes with overstitch wheel then chucked a diamond awl blade into my drill press to try and punch the holes straight. Then hand saddle stitched with Nyltex (they don't list a size) thread from Springfield leather. The reinforcement piece was sewed on with a little smaller waxed linen just due to the fact I wasn't able to get the Nyltex threaded thru the needle, or gave up too soon. For the holster I finally was able to taper it enough to just barely get it thru the eye "0" size harness needle. Belt slots are still giving me trouble, the last one is better but still not nearly as clean as I'd like them to look. I guess I just need more practice.

On to my main question I see that Fiebings Bag Kote might be worth a look or will the Kiwi be enough as a final finish?

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Posted

My 2 cents is that an acrylic finish will seal and protect the holster without making the leather softer. Typically that's what a person is looking for on this type of holster. The neutral shoe polish will put a light wax on top and not soften the leather but it won't give the protection of acrylic. You could try cutting the Resolene in half with water, some folks do that and say it works for them. I finish my concealed holsters with Mop & Glo cut 50/50 with water and like the results.

Nice job on all three holsters, keep up the good work!

Josh

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Posted

Actually after reading a bunch more tried the Resolene 50/50 and the damp sponge. Waaay better, got it cooking off in the sun and then will put a light coat of Kiwi on it and call it good. Going to modify my template a bit to make the stitching a bit tighter and match the trigger guard a little closer.

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Posted

Love the progression. Addictive huh?

Warm regards,

Mark Skiba

 

Posted

For the slots. Punch a hole at the top and bottom of the slot and then use a chisel of the right size, I use a 1.5" to cut the sides and connect the two holes. Its how I do it and works for me.

Michael

The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.

Bruce Lee

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Posted

For the slots. Punch a hole at the top and bottom of the slot and then use a chisel of the right size, I use a 1.5" to cut the sides and connect the two holes. Its how I do it and works for me.

Michael

That's the way I'm doing it. Maybe it's my sequence, I do them after I've glued to the two pieces together. I'm using a 1/4" punch but it doesn't cut clean holes, they kind of taper. I didn't want to do the pieces separate figuring they would mismatch. I was thinking of thinning down the edges of the punch?

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Posted

Remedy ignorance here, please. What chisel? I also punch the holes and use a straight edge and utitlity knife making several passes so not to over shoot the hole. Actually, most all belt slots speak of handmade.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/redcent69/Random%20pictures/IMG_0105_zps9075c616.jpg

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