Third Holster Done... Kiwi As Final Finish?

[MStarmer]

Well after "salvaging" my first attempt I knocked out two more. My first one I tried quite a few different things on, drilling, punching, how to burnish etc.. Didn't really like the shape and whipped out another, ended up just neatsfoot oil and resolene but waaay too shiny. Now my third holster actually I think is quite respectable. But I'm not sure what to use as a finish? I don't want it shiny, I just dyed, applied neatsfoot but now what? Can I use Kiwi neutral as a final finish? Any comments appreciated.

First try... Kind ugly! (Glock 23)

Second try, good shape but too shiny! Not really digging the color either... (Glock 23)

Third try... This one I actually like!!! It's actually for a gun I own and carry too (Glock 27). The first two I used the only blue gun I own since I was messing around. The second holster actually was made for my XDm but I couldn't fit it in...

[RoyalLeatherDesigns]

They look great I love the third one as well did you use a sewing machine if so wich one and what kind of thread?

Ralph

[MStarmer]

No machine. Laid out holes with overstitch wheel then chucked a diamond awl blade into my drill press to try and punch the holes straight. Then hand saddle stitched with Nyltex (they don't list a size) thread from Springfield leather. The reinforcement piece was sewed on with a little smaller waxed linen just due to the fact I wasn't able to get the Nyltex threaded thru the needle, or gave up too soon. For the holster I finally was able to taper it enough to just barely get it thru the eye "0" size harness needle. Belt slots are still giving me trouble, the last one is better but still not nearly as clean as I'd like them to look. I guess I just need more practice.

On to my main question I see that Fiebings Bag Kote might be worth a look or will the Kiwi be enough as a final finish?

[Josh Ashman]

My 2 cents is that an acrylic finish will seal and protect the holster without making the leather softer. Typically that's what a person is looking for on this type of holster. The neutral shoe polish will put a light wax on top and not soften the leather but it won't give the protection of acrylic. You could try cutting the Resolene in half with water, some folks do that and say it works for them. I finish my concealed holsters with Mop & Glo cut 50/50 with water and like the results.

Nice job on all three holsters, keep up the good work!

Josh

[MStarmer]

Actually after reading a bunch more tried the Resolene 50/50 and the damp sponge. Waaay better, got it cooking off in the sun and then will put a light coat of Kiwi on it and call it good. Going to modify my template a bit to make the stitching a bit tighter and match the trigger guard a little closer.

[Ski]

Love the progression. Addictive huh?

[MStarmer]

Love the progression. Addictive huh?

Little bit....

[mlapaglia]

For the slots. Punch a hole at the top and bottom of the slot and then use a chisel of the right size, I use a 1.5" to cut the sides and connect the two holes. Its how I do it and works for me.

Michael

[MStarmer]

For the slots. Punch a hole at the top and bottom of the slot and then use a chisel of the right size, I use a 1.5" to cut the sides and connect the two holes. Its how I do it and works for me.

Michael

That's the way I'm doing it. Maybe it's my sequence, I do them after I've glued to the two pieces together. I'm using a 1/4" punch but it doesn't cut clean holes, they kind of taper. I didn't want to do the pieces separate figuring they would mismatch. I was thinking of thinning down the edges of the punch?

[Red Cent]

Remedy ignorance here, please. What chisel? I also punch the holes and use a straight edge and utitlity knife making several passes so not to over shoot the hole. Actually, most all belt slots speak of handmade.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/redcent69/Random%20pictures/IMG_0105_zps9075c616.jpg

[MStarmer]

A sharp wood chisel is what they are talking about. I may just try laying them out, punching the top and bottom and using a X-acto chisel blade straight down slowly... I wish someone made an affordable punch. I'd pay $20 or $30 but it looks like most of them are in the $60+ range...

[mlapaglia]

Yes a wood chisel but make sure you put the straight side of the chisel on the outside of the slot. This way the angle distorts the part you are taking out. You could use a drill if you dont like the punch. Do the slot after its glued together like you have been. Its just a matter of practice.

[dickf]

A sharp wood chisel is what they are talking about. I may just try laying them out, punching the top and bottom and using a X-acto chisel blade straight down slowly... I wish someone made an affordable punch. I'd pay $20 or $30 but it looks like most of them are in the $60+ range...

There are a few tools in my arsenal I couldn't live without, the slot punch being one of them. I put off buying one for so long in the beginning because of the cost, but to have one made to your exact specs, punch a clean slot every time, was more than worth the price. Besides, you only buy it once. As an added bonus to making a perfect slot, you only have to bevel the rear side because of the taper. It practically burnishes the leather on the front as it enters.

[renegadelizard]

There are a few tools in my arsenal I couldn't live without, the slot punch being one of them. I put off buying one for so long in the beginning because of the cost, but to have one made to your exact specs, punch a clean slot every time, was more than worth the price. Besides, you only buy it once. As an added bonus to making a perfect slot, you only have to bevel the rear side because of the taper. It practically burnishes the leather on the front as it enters.

+1 on this...i had a machinist friend make me one...his brother makes shotgun wads for the military, and they use the same type of set up, so he just took my dimensions and made what he calls a press die...i use it in a 1 ton arbor press and it work like a charm..clean, even slots every time...spend the money on a good custom die, it will save you more than enough time and frustration to pay for itself.

[MStarmer]

I just cut the slots on my fourth one and they turned out much much better. First I thinned down the hole punch, it's just a cheap 1/4" harbor freight one but it tapered drastically to the point. I think this was a huge part of my problem and also in lieu of the chisel I used a #18 chisel blade Xacto and slowly just worked it straight down between the holes. I'll post a pic later if I get time but it turned out very nice compared to my other attempts!

Thanks for the comments and tips, I spend more time on here than I should reading but I don't think my first holsters would have even been identified as holsters if it wasn't for all the people willing to share and help. I don't think I'll be competing for anyone's business anytime soon, but I do want to make some good leather for myself. I do have two Lobo holsters and I have to say he was more than accommodating to my requests. It will be awhile before I replace his.

[MStarmer]

Here's the 4th one. Stitching a little closer fit around the trigger guard and belt slots way cleaner.

[0369]

Looking really good! I'm glad you decided on the 50/50 resolene vs. the Kiwi. I tried Kiwi on a couple of early holsters and it won't last.

[Samalan]

Very nice!!