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I tried out DAP Weldwood this weekend, and it was a very frustrating experience. It is very watery, and soaks into the leather. It takes a lot longer to dry up, and it doesn't hold the pieces together. In my experience, Barge is 100x better. Maybe I am doing something wrong? Is there an additive that will make DAP thicker?

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FWIW, I've used Weldwood contact cement for at least 35 years and have never experienced the situation you describe. If I were to guess, I'd say that you may have gotten hold of some of their 'environmentally friendly' concoction which I tried once and tossed. Mike

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have to second what "katass" said. I have used weldwood for 10 or so years and have never run into the problem you are describing. The can I have now actually needs to be thinned somewhat. Holds well for me on the projects I use it for (holsters, pouches and sheaths). Hope this helps.

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I used Barge for 20 years and got tired of getting ripped off on the flammable charge of 20.00. So i started using Weldwood 2 years ago and i can't see much if any difference in it or Barge. Plus i can get Weldwood at the hardware store and don't have to pay a flammable charge. Once in a while i get a piece of leather that soaks up the glue like your talking about. I put another quick coat on that piece and it works fine and i had some leather that did the same thing with Barge. So far the best thing about Weldwood IMO is i haven't had to add any thinner because it dosen't get thick like Barge. It you have a piece that doesn't tack up as quick as you want hit with a hairdryer sometimes i need to do that in the winter. I buy the gallon cans.

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What you have it what i use.

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Well, that's the type I use also, BUT, not knowing how long that stuff has been sitting in the can at the warehouse. or been bounced all over hell and half of Texas being delivered to the store, I turn the can upside-down on my bench as soon as I get it home .I leave It that way for at least 12 hours (overnight) before opening. That's to allow any semi-solids to remix. After that I've never had a problem. Mike

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I pour the WeldWood into squeeze bottles and I can apply with accuracy and consistency. I tried the WeldWood gel and that was a mistake. Messsssyyyy!!

The original WeldWood is thin and I get it spread on the leather fast but I have not had the bleed thru. It does dry a mite slow, but it does hold.

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I have used Barge and others and now trying to use the Weldwood non-flammable, no fumes product. Have not used it enough to know how it will perform over extended period. Was surprised that is is white and very thin, compared to other I have used.

Hope it holds up as the no fumes thing is great.

Time will tell, along with a few self developed stress tests.

God Bless.

Ray

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I have been using the weldwood Non-flammable for about two years. I am very happy with it. I have made at least 20 belts and a hundred holsters with it. Without any problems. It should be stirred before using, however even then it is a little thinner then some of the rest. I brush it on with small brushes from horbor freight. It is important to give it time to dry before putting the pieces together.

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I've always used Barge and tried some other stuff at different times but always went back to barge. That being said I'm guna try weldwood just because everybody else seems to like it. But I'm curious, what do you use for clean up on brushes with Weldwood ?

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Trashcan.

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I don't use brushes. My glue is in a small coke bottle with a hole drilled in the top. I use a small piece of trimmed piece of sheep skin to put the glue on with and stick it to the top when i'm done. Been doing it that way for the last 10 or 12 years ever sense i read about doing that in the Leather Crafter Saddle Journal.

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I've always used Barge and tried some other stuff at different times but always went back to barge. That being said I'm guna try weldwood just because everybody else seems to like it. But I'm curious, what do you use for clean up on brushes with Weldwood ?

Toluene will work for cleaning brushes...

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I think the Weldwood can calls for Xylene to thin and cleanup. The Xylol they sell at Lowes is the same thing.

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I think the Weldwood can calls for Xylene to thin and cleanup. The Xylol they sell at Lowes is the same thing.

Hmmm, now why didn't I think of just reading the can when I get it?

Thanks!

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I've always used Barge and tried some other stuff at different times but always went back to barge. That being said I'm guna try weldwood just because everybody else seems to like it. But I'm curious, what do you use for clean up on brushes with Weldwood ?

With the non-flammable, I have cleaned them with water. Same for clean up.

With the other contact cements, I do as others have said, "trash can".

God Bless.

Ray

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I've always used Barge and tried some other stuff at different times but always went back to barge. That being said I'm guna try weldwood just because everybody else seems to like it. But I'm curious, what do you use for clean up on brushes with Weldwood ?

If you have a harbor freight store close to you or want to order online, they have a 36 pack of long handled acid brushes for 1.99 regular price. Less than a nickel each, trash when done. You can also get their wood handled chip brushes for cheap if you need to cover large areas.

Chuck

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Lots of good critique here. Bottom line is that I have used both and while I feel Barge is slightly better, the difference is so minute, that it cannot compare when you consider the price. Especially since I can run down to the nearest hardware about a mile away, and get it anytime without being hit with the premium for shipping flammable items. Hands down, weldwood contact cement wins the race.

Bob

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Lots of good critique here. Bottom line is that I have used both and while I feel Barge is slightly better, the difference is so minute, that it cannot compare when you consider the price. Especially since I can run down to the nearest hardware about a mile away, and get it anytime without being hit with the premium for shipping flammable items. Hands down, weldwood contact cement wins the race.

Bob

I think your makeing very good sence. Guna get some tomorrow and try it. Thanks..

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I've been using Weldood Gel Contact Cement for about 6 years now...and I'm not even interested in trying anything else.

Since I use it every day, all day long, I keep the brush in a bottle of mineral spirits (open top) and just wipe with a paper towel when I go to use it.....

If someone's is having trouble with this stuff, they're doing something really wrong.....

Edited by Rayban

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If you have a harbor freight store close to you or want to order online, they have a 36 pack of long handled acid brushes for 1.99 regular price. Less than a nickel each, trash when done. You can also get their wood handled chip brushes for cheap if you need to cover large areas.

Chuck

Seems like River City took a page out of my play book.

Generally, . . . I put a coat on both pieces, . . . and as soon as I get it all smoothed out, . . . no puddles, . . . out comes the heat gun, . . . on LOW, . . . warm up the whole thing wherever the Weldwood is, . . . as soon as it is dry to the touch (abt 90 seconds usually), . . . stick em together for eternity.

Belts, . . . sheaths, . . . holsters, . . . cell cases, . . . no problems with it.

May God bless,

Dwight

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The Weldwood works better than most others because it has smaller molecules than most cememt. Also I buy it by the gallon, use a bottle and when it gets a little thick just pour in some more from the gallon can. Don't ever use thinners in cememt, it will change the molecular stucture and it will not work as good.

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