Jj5685 Report post Posted October 10, 2013 I was working on a guitar strap for hours, then I left it in the basement overnight, finished the tooling the next morning. I sprayed it with lexol and let it dry outside on a nice day then put It in My room until my 1" punch gets here to finish it. Two days later I come home from work and notice greyish greenish specs on front and back. I researched and used alcohol and lemon juice to front and back then applied saddle soap to the back only cause I wasn't sure if fiebings oil dye will coat over it or not. But anyway the specs seem to be gone maybe a few here and there that won't rub off. Will this stop the mold or will it keep coming back? What caused it to mold so fast, does cold temperature cause mold faster? This is one of the best things I've tooled and spent several hours on it and I don't want it to be a waste. I've got some tan kote on the way too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted October 10, 2013 Hello Jj5685, Was your leather dry when the spots appeared? In my experience I've only had mold spots (and what you describe does sound like mold) when the leather has still been wet. Once it's dried out again I haven't experienced mold showing up on it, but I live in a very dry climate. If you live in a humid climate maybe that could be a problem. I have had specs like that show up from a reation to steel that leather naturally has when it's wet, and lemon juice does make those disappear too. It could be possible your specs showed up because something got on the leather. Lemon juice does a pretty good job taking off small specs of mold. I've had luck with denatured alcohol too, but I think my favorite for really cleaning is oxalic acid. You can probably find this under a brand name of 'bar keeper's friend' at your local hardware store. It is also called wood bleach. It's a strong cleaner and is traditionally used by leather workers, just remember that both oxalic acid and alcohol dry out the leather a lot and you will need to add conditioners (neatsfoot oil or whatever you normally use) afterward. I believe that once you clean a project with the oxalic acid, the mold won't come back, but that's just my opinion. I've only been doing this for a few years so I could be wrong. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted October 10, 2013 Pretty much what Bob saidPP Hello Jj5685, Was your leather dry when the spots appeared? In my experience I've only had mold spots (and what you describe does sound like mold) when the leather has still been wet. Once it's dried out again I haven't experienced mold showing up on it, but I live in a very dry climate. If you live in a humid climate maybe that could be a problem. I have had specs like that show up from a reation to steel that leather naturally has when it's wet, and lemon juice does make those disappear too. It could be possible your specs showed up because something got on the leather. Lemon juice does a pretty good job taking off small specs of mold. I've had luck with denatured alcohol too, but I think my favorite for really cleaning is oxalic acid. You can probably find this under a brand name of 'bar keeper's friend' at your local hardware store. It is also called wood bleach. It's a strong cleaner and is traditionally used by leather workers, just remember that both oxalic acid and alcohol dry out the leather a lot and you will need to add conditioners (neatsfoot oil or whatever you normally use) afterward. I believe that once you clean a project with the oxalic acid, the mold won't come back, but that's just my opinion. I've only been doing this for a few years so I could be wrong. Bob Pretty much what Bob said covers it. One thing more that I do is while tooling and keeping the surface moist, (most of my tooled panels are saddle parts, and cover several days in time in development) I spray with a mixture of distilled water, a couple of table spoons of dish soap, and a couple caps full of listerene. I usually don't have any problems with mold. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted October 10, 2013 All well said especially oxalic acid. I get mine from pharmacy as crystals and mix as needed. I keep a jug on my bench. As to where the spots came from, in humid climates things must be absolutely dry. Cold retards mold growth. If you have to stop in the middle of a project, wrap in plastic and put in frig or even freezer and NO MOLD!! Spots can also come from iron in casing fluid, etc but mold is the greatest culprit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted October 10, 2013 If you have to stop in the middle of a project, wrap in plastic and put in frig or even freezer and NO MOLD!! Spots can also come from iron in casing fluid, etc but mold is the greatest culprit. There's the root of the problem that I was going to point out as well. The other added benefit to this, no re-casing, which will allow you to keep a maintained moisture level and improve your tooling overall. I have a few pieces that were put in the fridge for casing around May or so. Ended up not needing them at the time, but still go grab a piece here and there with perfect results. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jj5685 Report post Posted October 11, 2013 Thanks for the replys, my leather was dry when the specs appeared. When you say stop in the middle of a project, how long are you talking about. I only stopped for maybe 6 hours. And it probly got to 50º that night. So basically if you wet the leather twice it will mold, our if it stays wet for long periods of time. Will oiling before tooling prevent this too? I'm just curious I've never had anything mold on me before Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted October 11, 2013 6 hours shouldn't cause mold itself, but if there are mold spores in the leather already and it's wet in the open air, then that will promote the growth. The fact that you left it in the basement overnight could be a clue. Where in your basement? Do you have moisture issues in there? I leave work in my basement all the time, since that's where my shop is, but it's also dry and finished with no moisture issues. Also, leaving it outside to dry is allowing particles that are outside to get to it while it's still wet. As far as time in between working - if you're not working on it, seal it up and put it away. It's not re-wetting it that causes mold, but having to recase all the time can effect your work. The key to my comment above was putting it in the fridge. The fridge is what keeps it from getting mold when it's wet. It's also completely possible that these specs are actually a chemical reaction with the steel in your tools. Actually, it's usually more of a rub off that gets on your hands and then transfers to the leather when you touch it while wet. Either way, if you suspect mold, you gotta clean it and KILL it. Lemon juice works well for the metal spots (dab it and let dry, don't rub at all), but to kill the mold, you'll want to mix it with vinegar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jj5685 Report post Posted October 11, 2013 Thanks I bet that was it. I noticed my metal flaking of my tools when I was pecking. I bet that was it. I still don't have a raw hide hammer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted October 11, 2013 What are you using to strike your tools? If it's a metal hammer that will ruin the tools and cause metal flaking like your describing. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyberthrasher Report post Posted October 11, 2013 Yep, that was probably your problem. Get yourself a poly mallet or maul. For low price quality, I'd say Barry King. For the best, get a Bearmaul. The original problem I was describing with the metal is actually from where you grip the tool. A lot of times I'll get some transfer to my hand, especially on a new tool. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jj5685 Report post Posted October 11, 2013 Yea I know I've just had my money tide up.I do have a peice of raw hide that I'm looking into making a hammer though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted October 12, 2013 Yea I know I've just had my money tide up.I do have a peice of raw hide that I'm looking into making a hammer though In the interim, wooden mallets are cheap. Poly mallets cost a little more. An off-cut of 2x2 maple or oak is pretty cheap as well. Can carve the handle round to fit your hand. Hardwoods are best, softwoods like spruce or pine will be all chewed up in one evening. There are lots of options for temporary mallets or mauls. Don't abuse your tools! Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted October 12, 2013 Small word of warning!!! If you make a temporary mallet/maul, be sure to have a plan on when you expect to replace it with a "real" one. Or you may find yourself still using the damn thing 20 years later! Believe me, I know!!! Happy Tooling! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted October 12, 2013 My advice, don't try making something unless you are an experienced machinist or something. If you can't yet get a maul or mallet, chances are you can get a hammer with repalceble poly head inserts at your local home improvement store and you will always have a use for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
