jackd942 Report post Posted October 31, 2013 So I've been making holsters for a couple of months now and really like what I have been producing. One area that I am curious about is the interior treatment of unlined holsters. What do you guys and gals do? I have been using gum trag after molding and then burnishing the best I can followed by sealing with acrylic resolene as I seal the whole thing. It seems to do ok, but kind of tough to burnish after everything is stitched and molded. Just wondering if there's a better method. Jack Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RoyalLeatherDesigns Report post Posted October 31, 2013 Hey Jack I think the best way is to line it. Think of it this way if you are using 7 oz leather then use a splitter and cut two identical pieces and split them down to 3.5 oz a piece so at the end you end up with the 7 oz you started with glue them really nice using Barge glue use a roller or the glass slicker to get any bubbles out and to compress the both pieces of leather well. I then use my shop press and press the leather. After all this is done I just think of it as a one piece of leather. I read this method from Katsass not too long ago and it works out great, for my understanding he's been doing this for years and his stuff looks tops. I just bough a Landis 30 splitter really cheap and it works out well for holsters because you are limited to 6 inches of working space there are other splitters like the Cobra it has 14 inches of working space but it is 2000+ and I only got my Landis 30 for 250. I suggest you try this out you won't be disappointed. I used to do exactly what you are doing now and that's probably the best you can make it look. You are going to be using a little more leather but you can probably ask more for them if you're selling them since they are lined holsters. God Bless! Ralph Garcia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackd942 Report post Posted October 31, 2013 Thanks for the reply Ralph. I will have to give that a try. I've got a pretty big order right now, so I'll probably wait til I fill that and then experiment a little. Jack Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted October 31, 2013 Jack here is a thread from just a couple of days ago discussing burnishing the interior of the holster with gum trag, ausie cream, or lining. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51247 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackd942 Report post Posted October 31, 2013 Gee whiz...I try to keep up with new content every day but missed that thread somehow. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted October 31, 2013 Tools make a big difference too. You need to be able to reach in there and get to everything. I've got a bone folder that is longer and has a bit of a twist to it. Works great on the flatter parts. I have an old toothbrush handle and a large and medium sculpy modeling stylus that can get to the harder spots to reach. I have been using gum trag until a couple days ago. I picked up some liguid glycerin saddle soap, and have had good results. As good as gum trag. I'll likely order some of the Aussie cream with my next order and try it. The soap works well, but I think the extra wax in the cream may do even better on the inside. Once I've got it burnished I seal it with 50/50 mop and glo/water. Sometimes I'll rub some neutral shoe polish in if I find I missed a spot or the retention is a bit tight. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted October 31, 2013 Buy good leather and you will not need to try to glue the fibers down. The back side should be almost as smooth as the front. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted October 31, 2013 ^ ^ ^ ^ What electrathon said works really good for me too,........... May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Itch Report post Posted October 31, 2013 Buy good leather and you will not need to try to glue the fibers down. The back side should be almost as smooth as the front. This is what works for us as well.. Then before it leaves our shop we always brush a coat of KG-9 PTFE Micro Leather Kote Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SouthernCross Report post Posted November 2, 2013 Buy good leather and you will not need to try to glue the fibers down. The back side should be almost as smooth as the front. What "good leather" would you recommend if I'm ordering it online? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted November 2, 2013 Herman Oak or Wicket and Craig. Tandy does not sell it, they mainly sell Mexican tanned leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SouthernCross Report post Posted November 2, 2013 Thanks, electrathon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
samcolt45 Report post Posted November 4, 2013 Ok, so I came across this thread a little late. I'm making a holster for my father and coated the interior with GT and foloowed up with a glass burnisher prior to making the fold, gluing and stitching. Can this be corrected with a sanding the interior, or applying the soap via a homemade canvas-erapped drum chucked up in my Foredom? Samcolt45 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted November 6, 2013 Sam, you are probably a little late for that unless you cut the stiches and cut the glue line...even then i dont think it would accomplish a whole lot Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
