New guy and first holster

[dickf]

So, I have been lurking around for quite some time, and I had posted my intro back in April. I (finally) got around to getting something done. Anyway, this is a prototype for a Polish P64 pistol IWB. I still have yet to dye it. Thanks for all the great info!

[rdb]

Nice job on your first! Thats some deep molding there.

Looks like you've been doing some reading here, we look forward to the progress you make on your holsters.

[Drac]

looking good so far! my only suggestions would be to follow the outline of the pistol with stitching too (helps the holster retain retention) and clean up the area by the trigger guard and grip a little. I can't tell if it's lined or not, but if it's not I'd recommend bringing the throat support around further and placing the chicago screw through that so it doesn't rub on the pistol. and don't forget, when ya make something, we always want pictures!

[dickf]

looking good so far! my only suggestions would be to follow the outline of the pistol with stitching too (helps the holster retain retention) and clean up the area by the trigger guard and grip a little. I can't tell if it's lined or not, but if it's not I'd recommend bringing the throat support around further and placing the chicago screw through that so it doesn't rub on the pistol. and don't forget, when ya make something, we always want pictures!

Thanks guys! I still have yet to burnish the edges, and feel confident that I can clean up any rough points during that process. The opposite side of the snap doesn't go inside the holster - it's between the throat support and the body. One thing is for sure - I already have changed the pattern and can't wait to start a new one! Do you guys have any recommendations on dye? I need it to be able to stay even if the user has the leather against skin and sweats. Thanks!

[Shorts]

Good work on the holster. For dyes, I use Eco-Flo as they're easy to get (the ONLY thing I cang et) and be sure to seal them up real well. I use Resolene at full strength (I don't dilute).

One suggestion, as it makes me nervous, might reconsider not boning the leather down into the trigger guard.

[dickf]

Good work on the holster. For dyes, I use Eco-Flo as they're easy to get (the ONLY thing I cang et) and be sure to seal them up real well. I use Resolene at full strength (I don't dilute).

One suggestion, as it makes me nervous, might reconsider not boning the leather down into the trigger guard.

Thanks for the input on the dyes and finish. I'm hitting up Tandy tomorrow, so I really should go prepared.

Regarding the trigger guard...

I did think of this before I boned it, but, the holster is snug, and as such, the material that sits lower than the trigger guard (inside the guard in front of the trigger) doesn't apply pressure to the trigger when the firearm is holstered. I would have had to bone that area with the trigger depressed in order to move it. It locks in nice and secure; even has a slight 'click' to it.

[Srigs]

Looks like if fits the gun real well. You maybe a little strong on your boning for an IWB (good for OWB) and especially around the trigger.

Great first attempt and keep up the good work. Ask questions

[dickf]

Looks like if fits the gun real well. You maybe a little strong on your boning for an IWB (good for OWB) and especially around the trigger.

Great first attempt and keep up the good work. Ask questions

Thank you - I most certainly will!

[okie44]

I'm not sure, but I think what the other posters are concerned about the boning around the trigger, is during re-holstering, it might try to pull the trigger under just the right circumstances. Worries me a little too. Other wise it is a very good first holster. John

[Billsotx]

Good point okie, but he put in the proper caveat - "It's for a polish pistol!" . . . LOL!

Edited October 2, 2008 by Billsotx

[Shorts]

Good point okie, but he put in the proper caveat - "It's for a polish pistol!" . . . LOL!

[dickf]

So, I made some modifications to my design on this one, and came up with this. I think I will extend the sweat guard slightly higher, and will give attention to the throat re-enforcement to make sure it's more even all the way across.

[ArtS]

Excellent first holster. We learn something on every item that we make.

Art

[Billsotx]

So, I made some modifications to my design on this one, and came up with this. I think I will extend the sweat guard slightly higher, and will give attention to the throat re-enforcement to make sure it's more even all the way across.

Looking good. From a practical standpoint, an IWB doesn't need that much molding around the trigger, trigger guard area as the belt provides most of your retention properties. Looking at that area on your third photo indicates you're molding too wet. After you case wait until the surface starts to return to the dry color before you start molding and boning. It's a little harder to see with dyed leather, so take a mental photo of it before you case it. If you're pushing water when you start to mold, stop and wait a while longer.

Good idea on extending the sweat guard. That seems to be the in thing now days. You might consider flaring the top band out (looks like you did that on front) and overlaying the sweat guard with it and moving the front belt loop back a bit more. (We see folks in class that have the sweat guard folding over which impedes holstering with one hand and not looking down at the holster because the thing is closing up.) Your edges look good but you can smooth them up just a smidge more - hand sanding is one way, or you can do it with a machine - dremel, drill, etc. If you use power use a light hand so you don't burn the surface; dampen very lightly when you do this.

You're catching on fast. Looking forward to seeing the next one.

[dickf]

Looking good. From a practical standpoint, an IWB doesn't need that much molding around the trigger, trigger guard area as the belt provides most of your retention properties. Looking at that area on your third photo indicates you're molding too wet. After you case wait until the surface starts to return to the dry color before you start molding and boning. It's a little harder to see with dyed leather, so take a mental photo of it before you case it. If you're pushing water when you start to mold, stop and wait a while longer.

Good idea on extending the sweat guard. That seems to be the in thing now days. You might consider flaring the top band out (looks like you did that on front) and overlaying the sweat guard with it and moving the front belt loop back a bit more. (We see folks in class that have the sweat guard folding over which impedes holstering with one hand and not looking down at the holster because the thing is closing up.) Your edges look good but you can smooth them up just a smidge more - hand sanding is one way, or you can do it with a machine - dremel, drill, etc. If you use power use a light hand so you don't burn the surface; dampen very lightly when you do this.

You're catching on fast. Looking forward to seeing the next one.

Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate all the input I can get!

The pistol is basically a PPK clone, and thus isn't very big. This is why it's sort of necessary to mold the trigger guard stronger, as less than half of the gun (remember - it's small frame) is under the pants. The guard offers most of the retention. The inside trigger guard looks sloppy because I did it sloppy - I used the back of a marker, and your seeing where I didn't smooth it out (this is just a prototype) afterward. Again, because this is a prototype, is the reason I didn't take the edge burnishing all the way. With the front belt loop so far forward, it makes the grip of the pistol tuck in, which is superb for carry. The small size is also why I left some excess material at the muzzle.

I tell ya, I think I'm addicted!

Edited October 13, 2008 by dickf

[okie44]

Good start on the holster. As far as the loop position, A J Concealco uses a very similar position on theirs, for pretty much the same reasons you stated. Good work, keep at it.