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vaalpens

Set Rivet In Strap/band Around Holster Body

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I was thinking of posting this question under the "How To" board, but decided that it is probably a question specific to holster making.

I am in the process of making a holster loosely based on a George Lawrence design. The design utilizes a strap/band around the body of the holster, attached to the belt loop. What I am trying to do is make use of copper rivets, since I want to try it out, it is old school, and it will look great with the color of the holster. My questions is: How do I set the rivets with a design like the attached image?

post-43944-0-56020800-1385568875_thumb.j

There is no space to set a copper rivet, unless there is a special way to do it. The only alternative I have is to use chicago screws, or maybe put a snap or buckle in the front that can be closed after the rivet has been set. The snap or buckle will make the front look a bit busy, so I would prefer to have the strap solid in the front. For now I am probably going to go with a chicago screw to allow me to replace the strap with a different strap depending on the width of the belt.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

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Vaalpens, I don't think those rivets do more than holde the band. I don't believe they are in the holster. Are they?

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I'd agree with Red Cent

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Vaalpens, I don't think those rivets do more than holde the band. I don't believe they are in the holster. Are they?

I'd agree with Red Cent

I think you are correct, the rivets are not attached to the holster, but they are attached to the band and belt loop. I am just planning on attaching the the band to the belt loop. The problem I have is that the band will be a tight fit around the holster body, so I don't see a way to be able to set copper rivets, since the side where I need to use the rivet setter will be between the holster body and band. I was thinking of straightening the belt loop, attach the band with the rivets, then try and pull the band over the body. I also don't think that will work since I have a lined holster with a very stiff belt loop.

Thanks for responding to my question.

Edited by vaalpens

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The rivets just go through the back of the belt loop as noted by Red Cent and J Hays. Just rivet the band in place then give the holster a quick dunk and fold it through the band. Once it's folded into place stuff your shooter in place and fuss with until you're happy with it.

If you have anvil you can use the horn to set the rivets on so you don't mash the band while peening the rivets. If you don't have an anvil , or the horn isn't suited to set rivets put down a thick piece of scrap leather under the band and use the widest steel plate you have as a backer.

Good luck,

Josh

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I guess another way of saying this would be - rivet the band then fold the holster to create the belt loop. You are correct that it would be impossible to fold the holster over to make the belt loop then rivet the loop.

Good Luck, Josh

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Josh, beat me to it. It would be almost like dealing with a mexican loop. Pre fit your loop around the holster to get a tight fit mark your holes for the rivets on the loop and the strap. Rivet the strap in place. Wet the holster and bend slide into loop just like Josh said then do any final molding.

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The rivets just go through the back of the belt loop as noted by Red Cent and J Hays. Just rivet the band in place then give the holster a quick dunk and fold it through the band. Once it's folded into place stuff your shooter in place and fuss with until you're happy with it.

If you have anvil you can use the horn to set the rivets on so you don't mash the band while peening the rivets. If you don't have an anvil , or the horn isn't suited to set rivets put down a thick piece of scrap leather under the band and use the widest steel plate you have as a backer.

Good luck,

Josh

I guess another way of saying this would be - rivet the band then fold the holster to create the belt loop. You are correct that it would be impossible to fold the holster over to make the belt loop then rivet the loop.

Good Luck, Josh

Josh, beat me to it. It would be almost like dealing with a mexican loop. Pre fit your loop around the holster to get a tight fit mark your holes for the rivets on the loop and the strap. Rivet the strap in place. Wet the holster and bend slide into loop just like Josh said then do any final molding.

Josh and Camano, thanks for the directions regarding getting the loop around the holster. I have learned a lesson that it should be attached before I do any forming. I think the problem this time was that I did not have a pattern, and had to fit and adjust as I went on. So at this time the forming is done, and with the lining (2x5oz leather), it will be difficult to dunk it again and try and get the loop around it. This time I will just go with the Chicago screws, which at least leave me the flexibility to replace the band with a wider band if I want to adjust for another belt.

I will definitely make another holster like this, but this time it will be non-lined. The non-lined holster will then be much softer holster during the forming process, and then I will be able to loop the band around the holster. These holsters are for me and part of the process is to learn new methods of doing things.

Thanks again for the excellent advise!

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Vaalpens, actually most of my holsters are lined. Two layers of leather glued and stitched together. again just give them a dunk then instert holster into loop and then form and do any final molding. Makes no difference for the most part wether they are lined or unlined.

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Vaalpens, it seems to me that you said a while ago that you had Al Stohlman's book "How to Make Holsters", if you do -- read it, it covers this exact question. If you do not have it, you should get it (at around $12 it's well worth it) It will answer a whole pot-load of questions for you, and damned near every holster maker I have run into has their own copy, beat up, bent. and coffee stained - but always there. Mine is from about 1960. Mike

Edited by katsass

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Vaalpens, actually most of my holsters are lined. Two layers of leather glued and stitched together. again just give them a dunk then instert holster into loop and then form and do any final molding. Makes no difference for the most part wether they are lined or unlined.

Camano, this was the first lined holster for me and it seems that the 2x5oz leather was less pliable than a single 8/9oz piece. At the time when I was posing the question the holster was already stitched, dyed, received some neatsfoot oil and formed. I just did not want to put it back in the bath again. This is not a big deal and it is one of those lessons learned. Part of holster making is adapting when things doesn't work out exactly the way they should. The chicago screws was my C plan, and still worked out great. The great thing about the chicago screws was that I was able to assemble everything before finishing it. I disassemble it and then finished it with some leather balm atom wax. I really like how the lined holster cam out. Everything is so much smoother and looks better finished.

Thanks again for the great advise.

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Vaalpens, it seems to me that you said a while ago that you had Al Stohlman's book "How to Make Holsters", if you do -- read it, it covers this exact question. If you do not have it, you should get it (at around $12 it's well worth it) It will answer a whole pot-load of questions for you, and damned near every holster maker I have run into has their own copy, beat up, bent. and coffee stained - but always there. Mine is from about 1960. Mike

Mike, thanks again for the great suggestion. I have not bought the book yet, but is on my wishlist for Christmas. Books are great to find answers, but normally you only get one answer per question. The great thing about this forum is that most of the times you get different answers on how to solve a problem, with all of them a valid way to solve the problem. This let me learn multiple ways to do one thing, and also let me choose a solution that fits my skill-set and tool-set.

You have given my great advise over the last few months and it would have been difficult to pick up all that experience from books alone. This last project I did was a direct result of how you described how you do a lined holster with 2x5oz pieces of leather. To me that made sense for what I wanted to accomplish and I then decide to make a lined holster with my next project.

Thanks again for all the effort you put into answering some of my questions.

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Vaalpens, after reading my suggestion to you about Stohlman's book, it seems (to me) as though my response sounds something like that which came from a northbound horse's south end -- It definitely as not meant in that tone.

I just feel that the information contained in old Al's books would be of great assistance to you as you progress with your endeavors. The information is not only written in a way that even an old fart can understand, but contains great illustrations to assist the reader even more. Have a great Thanksgiving' Mike

Edited by katsass

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Vaalpens, after reading my suggestion to you about Stohlman's book, it seems (to me) as though my response sounds something like that which came from a northbound horse's south end -- It definitely as not meant in that tone.

I just feel that the information contained in old Al's books would be of great assistance to you as you progress with your endeavors. The information is not only written in a way that even an old fart can understand, but contains great illustrations to assist the reader even more. Have a great Thanksgiving' Mike

Mike, sorry if it sounded like I did not appreciate the advise about the book, but that is not true. I do appreciate it and I think it is great advise. I just probably tried with my clumsy use of the english language to say that the book will be great (I have it on my wishlist), but I also think the advise I get from the forum members is on par with what I will get out of the book. It is probably one of those times where I wanted to say something, but what I actually typed in the response was not exactly the way it came across. English is my second language and I sometimes miss all the finer nuances of the language.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

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