cardinal leather Report post Posted December 17, 2013 Rivet press.doc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cardinal leather Report post Posted December 17, 2013 I thought this would open in the post but I guess I did not get it set up right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted December 17, 2013 That's OK, Jim, . . . thanks for the post, . . . I'm in the process of building a new shop, . . . hope to open it after the first of the year (so far only 90 days behind the original schedule,........), . . . and rivets & snaps will be one of those things I'll be "upgrading" in my way of doing things. I presently do them all by hand, and am "satisfied", . . . just want to do it a bit better. Thanks again, may God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cardinal leather Report post Posted December 19, 2013 Thanks, Dwight. We managed to get the addition onto my shop in november. It rained for three of the days then snow started and things got ugly. But at least it is closed in. It will be April or after by the time that I am done. I hope your project goes better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pbrito Report post Posted January 8, 2014 Dwight maybe you could help me with the manual rivet setting... I don't have a proper (commercial) rivet setter but I made one myself, just a steel screw with the tip concave shaped to acommodate the cap. The problem is that the cap after the wack becomes deformed as you can see in the picture. Could it be due to the handmade setter ou maybe a too strong wack? Does a wood or nylon mallet make the difference rather than a metal one? Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted January 8, 2014 For manually setting rivets, . . . quite honestly there is a little tool that comes in one of the bags of rivets sold at Tandy's. It is about 3/8 of an inch in diameter and has a domed face for doing rivets. I find that it is more than adequate, . . . does a good job, . . . and doesn't deform the rivets. I put a nail clipper in the picture, . . . gives you an idea of the size of the pieces. You use it in conjunction with the anvil that came in the same package, . . . it is about 3/4 inch in diameter. It also has a domed face. Top of the rivet lays in the anvil, . . . through the leather, . . . put on the bottom, . . . and I tend to "tap, tap, tap" instead of "WHACK", . . . when I'm setting rivets. Just looking at your belt, . . . I'd say you laid the rivet heads on something flat and hard, . . . and in setting the other side, . . . this side is deformed. The little anvil in the bag of rivets prevents that. And I don't think the mallet makes much difference, . . . using a metal one will deform most leather tools over time, . . . that is why most leatherworkers tend to use a plastic or rawhide mallet. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pbrito Report post Posted January 8, 2014 Thanks for your help. I guess the best option is to have the right tools instead of improvising my own tools! And maybe a couple of soft taps instead of a strong wack! ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites