Fixing Singer Featherweight 221

[pux]

someone gave me a 1936 singer featherweight 221 took me a couple hours to figure it out how to use it, i manged to time the machine, it worked good for a short while but now 3 or 4 threads are coming out of the bobbin area and starting jams

also the needle is rubbing against the other hook, just as the needle is coming up, how do i fix this? would grinding it fix it?

[TXAG]

Are you actually trying to sew leather and/or cordura with that machine?

[pux]

cordura 500 more or less depending what this machine can handle and Maybe Ripstop nylon.

[TXAG]

Ok, well I have used one of those a bit and I think you'll find it is really not suited to materials like that. Most folks buy them to do quilting...for sewing a couple layers of light cloth together...

Couple of layers of F111 rip stop nylon or something, fine. Multiple layers of 500D, not so much.

Edited December 20, 2013 by TXAG

[Tejas]

This forum might be better oriented to your question.

http://www.thesewingforum.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=135

[Ian1783]

Beautiful little machines - remarkable quality in so small a package. Please don't grind anything. These can be adjusted to work just fine. Interestingly, Arthur Porter has a "how to" video where he assembles a handbag, disclosing at the end the machine he used: a Singer 221 Featherweight (skiving was the trick that allowed him to do so).

I've had a number of these. It would be difficult to explain any quick fixes, but if you had success timing it, you should be able to adjust for distance between needle and hook. Be sure the needle is in correctly.

Googling will net you good advice.

Ian

SF Bay Area

http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

[Wizcrafts]

The Featherweight is not designed to sew leather. It has light weight components and is meant for broad cloth garments and quilts.

[pux]

Needle bar will need to be cut out, bolts are welded in from age, and stripped the heads, used a blow torch noting worked, this machine is dead.

so now i am considering buying a singer 15-91, does this model share parts with the 221? unless there a better model out there?

considering getting a consew rb206 or something like it, I am just not sure what model, I would like to sew some leather, cordura and nylon belts

Edited December 21, 2013 by pux

[Tejas]

While perhaps not helpful in this case, here is a a link about a test of various penetrating oils.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-penetrating-oil-196347/

"A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated."

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

[Wizcrafts]

Needle bar will need to be cut out, bolts are welded in from age, and stripped the heads, used a blow torch noting worked, this machine is dead.

so now i am considering buying a singer 15-91, does this model share parts with the 221? unless there a better model out there?

considering getting a consew rb206 or something like it, I am just not sure what model, I would like to sew some leather, cordura and nylon belts

The Singer 15-91 is NOT a leather sewing machine. In fact, it barely feed Naugahyde, in my own experience.

The Consew 206RB-5 is a basic level leather sewing machine and an mid-upper level Naugahyde machine.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Dude, Featherweights are HIGHLY collectible-do not damage it any further than you have! Even as a fixer it might bring a couple of hundred dollars.

That is if this isn't just a Troll posting..............

Edited December 22, 2013 by BIGGUNDOCTOR