JeffGC Report post Posted December 21, 2013 My edges are beautiful, following Bob Park's excellent procedure. Still, I have a nagging question. Wouldn't the application of wax, before (under) the top coat, reduce the latter's adhesion? Typically, my second to last step is to burnish the edge with a mixture of paraffin and beeswax. I then finish with Bag Kote, either with an airbrush or wiping on with a sponge. Thoughts will be appreciated. Jeff C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted December 21, 2013 For years I have been finishing, with either bag coat or super sheen over a burnished wax edge with no problems whatsoever. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benlilly1 Report post Posted December 21, 2013 My edges are beautiful, following Bob Park's excellent procedure. Still, I have a nagging question. Wouldn't the application of wax, before (under) the top coat, reduce the latter's adhesion? Typically, my second to last step is to burnish the edge with a mixture of paraffin and beeswax. I then finish with Bag Kote, either with an airbrush or wiping on with a sponge. Thoughts will be appreciated. Jeff C. I have pondered the same question... It just doesn't seem logical. From a woodworking point of view this would NEVER work. Maybe the only difference is that leather is absorbent and flexible and allows the finishes to work together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ran Report post Posted December 22, 2013 I agree with Benlily. You'd never get away with it in woodworking (in fact, you'd have a mess on your hands)., but leather work seems to lend itself to 'bending the rules' just a bit. I seem to be burnishing my edges throughout most projects. On occasion, I've even gone back over my edges with wax 'after' my final finish has been applied and 'set' just to bolster the shine a little.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted December 22, 2013 I've been using the 50/50 paraffin/beeswax for edge finishing for several years with a hard felt polishing wheel applied after the wax is rubbed onto the edges. The felt wheel is turning at about 1700 RPM so there is quite a bit of friction and heat built up. The wax is melted and fused into the leather fibers, and I think it would be pretty difficult to ever remove it without removing the leather itself. Sounds complicated but it really isn't. Each holster or pouch takes just about 2 minutes to burnish, while a belt might take 4 or 5 minutes. With the felt wheel turning at 1700 RPM a 2-minute burnishing is equivalent to about 3400 polishing strokes. Acrylic sealant is applied after burnishing with adhesion at the edges being very good. Then final finishes are applied. I have found with my own gear that the edges are quite durable. On a couple of my belts I have worn for a year or two, resulting in some abrasion on the edges, but a quick application of the wax and a turn on the burnishing wheel makes them look like new. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted December 22, 2013 Last night I reworked ratty the edges on my 2 yr old belt.Saddle soap and canvas then painted on neat-lac. Looks better than the first time! pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted December 22, 2013 I have found that the solution is sand, sand, sand. I rough and shape the edges with 120, smooth with 220, and then 400. Spray a little water on the edge and burnish with my 2.00 dowel rod. At this point it looks like glass. Dye the edge. Buff. Apply an acrylic from Zack White, let dry, buff and it is very nice. 50/50 beeswax and parafin is bondo to the leather world. Someone said that here. I use it also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WScott Report post Posted December 23, 2013 Glad I wasn't the only woodworker who waxes after burnishing and top coats/edge coat. So many ways to skin the cat on edge finishing. Leather is a bit more forgiving in many ways, such a great product to work with. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lowlife Report post Posted December 25, 2013 I started using Bob Parks method and I am totally satisfied with the way my edge are now. It's alittle work but the out come is worth it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted December 29, 2013 I have found that the solution is sand, sand, sand. I rough and shape the edges with 120, smooth with 220, and then 400. Spray a little water on the edge and burnish with my 2.00 dowel rod. At this point it looks like glass. Dye the edge. Buff. Apply an acrylic from Zack White, let dry, buff and it is very nice. 50/50 beeswax and parafin is bondo to the leather world. Someone said that here. I use it also. try burnishing the edges with the dye still wet...i do this and it is amazing...i used to wet and burnish, but using the dye to wet the leather for burnishing gives better results for me...i dont know why, maybe its the denatured alcohol that i cut the dye with... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted December 29, 2013 Lowlife, I found that if I rub bar glycering soap on, it will stain the raw leather. Not so the dyed leather. After staining a piece, I remembered I had read a post by Dwight and tried the rest with water and............................. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites