Should I Seal Vinegaroon On The Edges ?

[ToddB 68]

Greeting !

I have some well-aged coal-black vinegaroon that I'm planning to use for dyeing the edges of my tool sheath made of 12oz. veg-tanned cow hide.

After dyeing, I plan to let it dry well, then burnish with a bone folder.

As with any dye, I assume it's a good idea to go over vinegaroon dye with a sealer before final buffing.

I have Beeswax, Paraffin wax and a bottle of Gum Tragacanth, but which one would be best for sealing Vinegaroon and producing a nice glossy appearance ?

Your opinions are welcomed !

Thanks,

ToddB68

[TomG]

Hey Todd,

I am NOT a Vingaroon pro by any means, but I have used it. I stopped because I could never get the smell out.

But... My Roon was never coal black. My 1st batch was a rusty color and my second batch was rusty as well, but not as dark. Both dyed well.

I always used Resolene diluted 50/50 with water for my finish coat. But I actually used the Roon for dying the whole piece... not as an edge dye.

Once think I would be careful of is the wicking effect of the leather. I'd experiment with it fist to make sure it's not going to oak in further than the edges.

[ToddB 68]

Hi TomG !

I assume the smell you refer to is a vinegar smell. Since your Roon wasn't black that would mean there was still a lot of vinegar left in the mix.

My Roon is over 3 years old and has no vinegar smell. I can't place the smell accurately, except to say it is pungent (like when a car burns rubber) ,with a hint of sweetness and an overtone of caramel.

Thanks for the caution about the wicking effect of leather. Actually, I thought about that and am planning to do some experimenting before dyeing the edges of my tool sheath.

My applicator is one I made (see attached photo.). The tip is felt, cut on angle, so this should give me a little more edge control than a small wool dauber. Another help would be to minimize the amount of dye applied to the felt tip.

Thanks again for your reply.

ToddB68

[TomG]

Cool Tool. I use a big plastic paperclip with a piece of felt to apply edge dressing. Same idea, but yours is slicker!!!

What did you use? a dowel rod

The smell was not vinegar. it was a rusty - musty -- weird smell. Can't remember it exactly no. Been a few since used it. But your description my be similar.

[ToddB 68]

TomG..........Re photo of the dye applicator in my above post, below are some details.

Material : Hardwood Maple dowel

length overall : 4-1/4"

Diameter : 5/8"

Slot : 1/4" wide x 2-1/8" Long

Felt : 1/4" Thick x 1/2" wide x 7/8" Lg.

ToddB68

[TomG]

Thanks. I'll have to try that for my edger...

[camano ridge]

Todd, since your roon is three years old I assume you have used it before. You know that roon is not a dye it chemicaly changes the leather. Even with doing the just the edges you should still neutralize with backingsoda/water mix. You may see a change in color along the edges on the face and back of the leather since the roon will effect allthe leather that it touches and is absorbed into. If you have not already take a scrap piece dye the edge with the roon see how it takes it. Then once dry try your different products, Gum Trag, bees wax etc and see which one you like best.

[chiefjason]

Prep the edges well before grooning. Square, edge, sand, maybe even a bit of pre burnish with just water. Do not use gum trag before grooning, it is a resist and will not take well. Grooned leather is the hardest thing I have found to burnish, especially if it's by hand. I've worked with a lot of grooned holsters, and the edges are always a bear. With the above list I would burnish with gum trag, then go back behind that with the wax to lay down any stray leather and fill in any gaps left.

[ToddB 68]

camano ridge ,

Thank for the information ! That really helps and I'll experiment with some Leather scraps as you suggested.

ToddB68

[ToddB 68]

chiefjason ,

Thanks for your suggestions..........I'll proceed accordingly !

ToddB68

[Red Cent]

Hey Chief, thats strange. I find that the fully saturated (black all the way through 'groon and allowed to almost dry needs nothing besides my motor driven burnishing tool (wooden dowel).

The 'groon ain't ripe until the wool pads that you keep adding totally rust away. When you find remnants in the bottom, you got good 'groon.

And one important thing. A bath in baking soda is a must. Not only to rid the leather of most of the smell but the leather will rust almost anything.

[Red Cent]

A thoroughly dried piece of 'groon colored leather will not bleed. But if you burnish I would seal/cover the edge with a simple thing like Mop & Glo.

[ToddB 68]

Red Cent.........Thanks much for all the information in your posts ! }}}} " Very helpful ! "

ToddB68

[ToddB 68]

Hi Red Cent !

With reference to your post #12, dated Jan. 22, 2014, what type of Mop & Glo ?

I Googled "Mop & Glo" and after clicking on the Link, I saw many different types pictured.

Thanks,

ToddB 68

[Isgarc02]

I may be a bit late, but my experience with vinegroon and finishing the edges has been a fairly good experience.

The smell is still there definitely but not as strong once applied and rinsed with the baking soda/water mixture. When the leather is just about dried and it looks grey/dark blue I than coat with mink oil along the entire peice. As for edges like any other of my projects I sand them down, than with some gum trag I start to burnish and finish off with bees wax, the edges look sharp and clean. One of my project was about 4 layers of 4-5 oz vegtan and it came out great. Mink oil every now and then keeps it looking fresh!