Echo4V Report post Posted October 1, 2008 I have barely gotten my toes wet as far as leatherwork goes and I have never made a holster at all, so please understand this question comes from a complete novice. I want to make a paddle holster to hold my S&W M&P .40 so I would like to get some information. If any of you folks make paddle holsters, how do you make the paddle sturdy enough to support the weight of the holster? What size leather do you make holsters with? In case anyone is not sure what I'm talking about here is a link to a paddle holster on a sales site. http://www.tactical.com/leather-angle-adju...e-holsters.html Thanks in Advance David Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
okie44 Report post Posted October 2, 2008 You can buy paddles from Eagle industries, for their G-Code holsters, and they can be adapted to your holster design. They bolt on with two screws, and are made from Kydex. Here is a link:Eagle G-code holsters For the type holster you have in mind, I would use 8-9 oz leather. Good luck in building your first holster. It can be a lot of fun, and the best way to learn is by doing it. You should get a lot more comments and helpful info here. John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted October 2, 2008 Hi David. I would suggest you get your feet wet making a few simpler holsters to start with before you tackle a paddle holster. It's easiest to start with a pancake style, and then move on to an avenger style. After you learn a few things from that, you'll have a better idea about what you need to do to make the paddle holster work right. I don't want to discourage you, I am merely giving you some friendly advice. Pancake holsters are one of the most difficult designs to build well. A lot of the companies that make paddle holsters exclusively don't even really get them right. When you are ready to start designing paddle holsters, try to think of ways to make sure the butt of the grip will stay in close to your body, and try to keep the pistol from leaning out too much (Also make sure you are wearing a good sturdy belt or the paddle holsters won't really support the weight of the pistol as comfortably as it should, and no design will prevent the pistol from leaning). Also remember that no matter how sturdy the paddle is, the holster will only be as strong as the attachment points to the paddle. You can line that with kydex or sheet steel to strengthen the holster at the attachment points. I personally use wet rawhide as my reinforcement; I shape the holster and attach the paddle while it is drying, so the rawhide hardens with the t-nuts aligned correctly with the paddle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
K-Man Report post Posted October 2, 2008 The placement of the paddle itself on the holster is critical for the overall balance of the gun on the belt. This affects the function of the holster, as well as the comfort. There are some variety of styles of paddles. Most use kydex material; I've seen others use a paddle made out of leather. The G-Code paddles mentioned above would give you a good starting point in working with the paddle itself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted October 5, 2008 David: I use 8-9 oz. shoulders for nearly all my holsters. For paddles, the holster itself requires some additional reinforcement to carry the weight of the pistol without shifting at the point where the paddle attached. I use 24-gauge galvanized sheet metal for paddles (readily available at most sheet metal shops, cheap, can be cut with standard sheet metal shears). I sandwich the metal paddle between two layers of leather, one layer 9-oz, the other layer 5-6 oz with rough sides out (this helps hold the paddle firmly in place by friction against the body and inside of the trousers). I also sew in a piece of the 24-ga. metal into the back side of the holster, extending down as far as practical and secured with the 5-6 oz. leather (placement of this piece requires some though so it doesn't interfere with the pistol's operating mechanisms, safeties, etc). Then I rivet the paddle into place with rivets passing completely through both pieces of the metal and leather covering them. Brass rivets will not damage the surface or finish of the pistol. The paddle, when fitted can then be bent over a mandrel to permit the proper clearance between the holster, belt, trousers, etc, and for the contour of the hip. I make 10 to 15 holsters per week for my customers, but I only get a call for paddle-style on one or two each month. As noted by others, positioning of the paddle is critical for the holster to ride at the desired angle. Hope this helps you. Lobo Gun Leather (serious equipment for serious business) I have barely gotten my toes wet as far as leatherwork goes and I have never made a holster at all, so please understand this question comes from a complete novice. I want to make a paddle holster to hold my S&W M&P .40 so I would like to get some information.If any of you folks make paddle holsters, how do you make the paddle sturdy enough to support the weight of the holster? What size leather do you make holsters with? In case anyone is not sure what I'm talking about here is a link to a paddle holster on a sales site. http://www.tactical.com/leather-angle-adju...e-holsters.html Thanks in Advance David Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites