Resisting Black Oil Dye

[TomG]

Has anyone found a resist that will block the Fiebings black oil dye? I apply the dye with a sponge or dauber.

I've tried --- Super Sheen, Resolene, Leather Balm, Blockout and even wood Shellac!

I've seen Cyber and some others use Latex, but want to hear if it is a good choice for black before buying some, or if there is something better that will work.

[Sona]

As far as I know there is no common/effectiv way to resist oil dyes with the normal finishes. Blockout, resolene and the rest are made for resisting water, not alcohol or oil. So if you use one of them, less of the colour might come through, but it will look splotchy and very unsatisfying. The latex should help at this point, but only if you use a airbrush, because otherwise you´d rather rub the colour under the edges while applying the dye, or the latex might even lift up because of the friction.

But that´s just my imagination. I never tried it and other people might know better, but if you need to resist a black dye, I think you should either take a water based dye or use latex and spray the dye on....

As said, maybe someone else could explain it better

[camano ridge]

Resists are usually used to block antiques and Hi Liters. Dyes will usually panatrate. Do a search there are sililar threads on one of them Cyberthraser talks about a liquid latex that you paint on as a resist then peel off. I don't remember the name of the product.

[BDAZ]

I did some tests this evening using liquid latex as a resist for Feibings Oil Stain. I have been having trouble getting any of the standard water based resists to work.

The letters used were 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch.

In the test the L and the E still have the latex in place. The T was painted with Block out first, then latex. The first B was treated with Mop and Glo, the second B with Block out and the O with Mop and Glo plus latex.

I used 3 heavy applications of full strength oil dye using a wool applicator. I intentionally rubbed the letters quite aggressively during the application.

I suspect that due to the low viscosity of the dye, it will have a tendency to seep under the edges of where the latex is applied.

The latex is easily removed by rubbing a finger over it and then pulling it up. I assume it would work really well with larger objects where the seepage would not be so noticeable.

Cya!

Bob

[King's X]

I use black and brown oil Fiebing's dye and use Clear Lac or Wyosheen as my resist. Two things that I do from lessons learned before applying the resist. make sure to brush or polish the dyed parts after it dries to remove any residue. There will be some residue. I actually do it after applying each coat of dye to show where the dye did not penetrate well. The other important step is allow the oil dye to dry and dry well.

This has worked out well for me.