Hand saw scabbard

[Steveg]

I started making these scabbards for the climbers that work for me as productivity prizes and after i had turned out about 30 i suddenly remembered to photograph one. This is the first one and every one of them was a different design that I sketched out by hand or did a basketweave. It made for a fun project and I was able to try out many different things. I wasnt very good at the copper rivet, does anyone have a trick to finishing them off?

[oddball]

I like the leaf pattern nice work.

[calanneh]

Nice work!! I love the color you used on the leather!! I think I see what my next tool case project will look like......

cal

Edited October 3, 2008 by calanneh

[tonyc1]

I started making these scabbards for the climbers that work for me as productivity prizes and after i had turned out about 30 i suddenly remembered to photograph one. This is the first one and every one of them was a different design that I sketched out by hand or did a basketweave. It made for a fun project and I was able to try out many different things. I wasnt very good at the copper rivet, does anyone have a trick to finishing them off?

Are sewn? I can't see any stitching.

Tony.

[TomSwede]

Cool scabbard!

Looks like a chilifruit with the red colour.

Lucky guys work for you.

Tom

[Kevin]

Hi,

I can't see your rivets, so I'll just give some pointers on what I see people do wrong.

I set enough rivets that I've ground my nippers and rivet setter to cut at just the right height and the dimple in the setter just covers the top of the rivet. Remember you're changing the shape of a soft piece of metal, not driving a nail. Tap, tap, tap, just like when you are tooling. I hold the hammer up near the head so the handle balances with the head. Then, once the top of the rivet is nicely rounded, I give it a tap with just the hammer, so it has a little plateau on top.

One other thing I forgot is, I like to have a tight hole in the leather for the rivet to go through. This holds the rivet still, if it is bouncing around, you'll get nowhere. You can hear if you're hitting it solid or not, it should say tink, tink , tink, not thump, thump, thump. It sounds stupid, but you must become one with the rivet grasshopper.

Hope that helps, I didn't even mention doming the back of the rivet. If you're using #9 rivets, get a half inch bolt, cut the threads off, use a half inch drill bit and countersink the end. Hit the bottom of the rivet with that and you've got one sweet looking rivet.

Kevin

[Steveg]

Thank you for your compliments.

No I did not sew anything. I used the barge cement and rivets. unfortunately because they work with them, the constant in and out of the hand saw does a number on them. Weaver makes the scabbard and they put in a nylon spacer on the tooth side rivet to extend life, but even with this the scabbard wears out before too long. I have this aversion to stitching or should i call it hatred, and i can only stitch this by hand because of the thickness. So I am watching them to see how well the barge holds up. I read some other post about different cements or glues and I am going to try those next.

Thank you Kevin for your tips on setting the rivets. I guess like everything else it comes with practice.

[rdb]

I like the scabbards a lot. Wish I had one in my tree days.

There's nothing wrong with rivet construction, especially for a work tool. A few simple additions, and the scabbard should work well for a lot longer. You can easily add a few more rivets to the non-tooth side of the scabbard, for strength and durability. On the tooth side, you need only cut and add a few .5 inch wide pieces of leather, as a welt. Rivet through the welt (you may have to use a longer copper rivet) to secure, and voyla, it should hold up well.

The leaf theme seems just right.

[8thsinner]

I love that look. Simple leaves but very well done and effective.

I would call it a sheath though personally.

Nice colour too

[Steveg]

I like the scabbards a lot. Wish I had one in my tree days.

There's nothing wrong with rivet construction, especially for a work tool. A few simple additions, and the scabbard should work well for a lot longer. You can easily add a few more rivets to the non-tooth side of the scabbard, for strength and durability. On the tooth side, you need only cut and add a few .5 inch wide pieces of leather, as a welt. Rivet through the welt (you may have to use a longer copper rivet) to secure, and voyla, it should hold up well.

The leaf theme seems just right.

Thank you, i do have a welt. Just cant tell much from the photo. On the non-tooth side i have one layer and on the other side i have one layer all the way and then another that goes half way down (top to middle) and then is skived. This adds alot of space and lets the saw drop right in. The extra rivets is a good idea, thank you.

[Mattmatt]

So when you glued it together did you apply any kind of clamp or pressure to keep the leather together wile the glue dried? Or is it more like rubber cement?

[Steveg]

So when you glued it together did you apply any kind of clamp or pressure to keep the leather together wile the glue dried? Or is it more like rubber cement?

No clamping. I used the Barge all purpose contact cement. When it was set i held it firmly in place and then the next day i put in the rivets. So far so good, the guys really put some use on them climbing in the trees and all and they have held so far.