oclack Report post Posted February 19, 2014 So... I'm trying to wrap my head around this new machine I picked up two weeks ago. It's a Pfaff 335-H3 (I'm not sure what the "H3" designation represents). The Motor is a Efka Variostop. I'm not sure of the year on either, but it all looks to be original. So far with very little fuss I have it stitching nicely with a 22 Needle and 138 thread. My intent is to use it for wallets, totes, case, etc. So here are my questions... Efka Variospeed - Is this a positive or just a pain in the rear for a newbie? It's not too difficult to get it to run slow, but still I wonder if it would be better to just go ahead and get a new servo motor? I read in a desperate post that the variostop motor adds to the value significantly. Is that correct? Air Compressor - There's a weird air compressor type deal attached to the motor. I believe it controls the position of the pressed feet, but I don’t see how to adjust it (see next question). It even looks like I can hook up my larger compressor to it, but I’m not sure that’s a good idea. So... Is nematic hookup a positive thing or just more trouble for me to deal with?Only one Pedal - Pressing back on the pedal raises the raises the center presser foot and needle, but the outter feet remain down. I have to use the left handle to raise both feet and release the materials. Is this correct? Is there a way to adjust this function? Accessories… Roller Guide to be Specific - I understood there to be lots of different accessories for these machines, but I’m at a loss with finding them. Anyone know where I can get a roller guide for this model? Since I’m VERY new to using a sewing machine, the guide will help tremendously. New Pressor Feet - These presser feet have teeth, and it marks the oil tanned leather I've run through it so far. Should/can I buy new smooth feet or is it just easier to file them down? If I file the teeth down, is there anything I should be aware of? Value - I hoping you all can make me feel better about my purchase… What would you estimate the value of this machine to be as is with the Variostop motor? I think I got a great deal on it, but think it could really be a stunning machine with a little attention. The local industrial machine shop quoted me about $250 to have a new servo motor installed, and the machine tuned. Is it worth the cash? Pictures of the machine are below. As always… Thanks for the help and feedback! This is a great resource. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 19, 2014 From the view of the presser feet and (apparently double row) feed dog, they appear to be made specifcally for sewing on bias tape. Taping feet usually have knurled bottoms to grip the bias/edge tape better. If your $250 plus the Efka motor and air setup, plus old feet and feed dog/plate, can get you a standard, narrow, smooth presser foot set and a standard single row feed dog and throat plate, plus a Family Sew FS-550 servo or equivalent, you're flying high and wide. However, Pfaff parts are known to be among the most expensive on the planet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Hi, The Pfaff 335 is a nice machine for small operations. The Efka variostops are from the 1980`ties (first of their kind). It is an electronic clutch (AC) motor, with electronic brake and clutch. It has needle position (adjusted in the position head on the hand wheel) It has six or twelve pre adjusted speeds on the pedal (depended of model number/year). Than means that if you use an speed reducer on it you will not alter the speed, only make it stronger; the electronics compensate for the speed loss and turns up the rpm on the motor (caused by the speed sensor and counted rotations by the pos. head) Several operations can be controlled be air, I see it has a presser foot lift, normally activated by heeling the pedal hard (or by a separate switch) Light heeling of the sewing pedal lift the needle in up position, foot off the pedal and needle stops down (it can be altered by the switch on the control box to the opposite). I have sewn allot with these motors, and they are OK. Remember its a old motor, it do not add that much to the value of the machine. But complete with the air (if it all works well) it is more worth than with a clutch or an other cheap motor. I have had the biggest Adler machines with this same motor, it is more than strong enough for this little machine. It can be a bit fast in the start up, but let of your foot and you can do stitch by stitch with it. http://www.efka.net/pdf/index_en.php Many more extras can be attached, like thread trimmer, back tacking etc. These motor are labor saving in production, these machines are very much used in factories for fabrics and small leather production. The sub class H3 is the next heaviest sub class (from H1 to H4). There are difference in presser foot lift, needle height/type, thread thickness, hand wheel and pulley etc. on the subclasses. The 6/01 is equipment attached to it (you have to write to Pfaff industrial and ask for the manual) The letters are codes, B normally simply stands for : type "B", the "N" stands for maximum stitch length 6 mm and the "S" stands for "stoff" that means fabric in English (last time I checked). These codes are used on other Pfaff`s as well. The part about the "S" for fabric`s simply means it has a feed dog and feet's for use on fabric. You need to change or alter them to smooth leather transporters (feet and feed dog). it also applies to the needle system/ type or point of adjusted needle (normal needle the hook needle timing are adjusted with) In a factory setting they normally use the same type of needle all the time and the machine preforms optimally with it (but you can use three sizes up and down or more) There are two types of bottom feed on these machines, normal and binding feed (feed dog goes back and forth only to propel a synchronized binder) The code 6/01 might apply to this, I do not know. If the feed dog make ugly markings on your leather you can smooth it (on the grinding wheel and polish it) or lower it to the level of the needle plate. Remember that original Pfaff part cost allot of dollars, check the aftermarket for parts. I hope that helped you a bit. Good luck Tor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Hello Wiz, I did not see your answer before I typed (much). You are right this machine has a binding feed, I see it on the pic now. Kwokhing.com had cheap parts for these machines (feet's and feed dog) But now I do not know if they still in business, If anybody knows please let me know. I need stuff from them too. Thanks Tor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted February 19, 2014 oclack, The H3 means it is a normal lift. H4 means high lift -meaning the feet would lift higher for more clearance under the feet. The "B" means it is a B class. C is heavier than a B class, C/D is heavier in sewing capabilities than C, etc. The D class was the heaviest model in the 335. You can get generic Pfaff parts such as the throat plate, feed dog, inner and outer presser feet from Henderson Sewing. Prices are much cheaper. They are in Alabama an their number is 1-800-932 0507. I have several 335 Pfaffs where I work and have gotten parts for them from Henderson. Just to give you an indication. The genuine Pfaff outside foot was about $120.00 the last time I checked. The generic foot was about $20.00! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oclack Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Guys (Trox, Shoepatcher and Wiz), Thank you so much for the info. I think I'm going to call Henderson Sewing in Alabama and see if I can track down a standard, narrow, smooth presser foot set and a standard single row feed dog and throat plate. I can get the servo motor here locally. It sounds like the Elka Variostop motor would be valuable to some, but for my needs a modern Servo would be better along with a second pedal to lift the presser feet together. Especially given that I don't have a control box to adjust it with. Hopefully Henderson will also have details on finding a guide system for this model too. I'm also going to make plans to rig up some sort of flatbed extension for it. I think doing wallets on the cylinder may be awkward. With all that done, I hope I have a machine that serves my needs well without having to break the bank. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted February 20, 2014 Hello Olack, the motor is complete with control box and easy to sew with, no problem. You just attach a air compressor to the regulator in pic # 8 and you are good to go. You do not need air to sew, only for the presser foot lift. Or take off the air cylinder, attach a ordinary chain and pedal if you do not like it. The Pfaff needle plate on the other hand is expensive, Pfaff wanted 1000 $ for a binding needle plate for my Pfaff 345-H3 (similar Cyl. bed machine with vertical hook). Perhaps you will find some part on the aftermarket. Check the bottom feed on it, on some machines the binding feed do not move like a ordinary feed dog, only back and forth. And that makes it a double feed (top and needle feed) rather than a triple feed machine. Thats a draw back if you do not need it, it does not matter that much on leather and on forward stitching. But on other material and in reverse it might not feed that good. Its a very strong machine, but a typical factory setup. Check it well for wear, it might have seen some hard use and part is $$$$ (some are hand made in Germany, that costs today. Good luck Tor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
najram2007 Report post Posted March 22, 2014 Kwok Hing are still running Trox. I ordered a few things from them a couple of weeks ago. I also found this Indian sight today www.uniksewingmachineparts.com go to pfaff 335 parts on the left hand side. Not sure if they are retail or wholesale yet. I emailed them to find out. It says they get their parts from China so hopefully a reasonable price as well. They have over 50 different parts for 335. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted March 24, 2014 Kwok Hing are still running Trox. I ordered a few things from them a couple of weeks ago. I also found this Indian sight today www.uniksewingmachineparts.com go to pfaff 335 parts on the left hand side. Not sure if they are retail or wholesale yet. I emailed them to find out. It says they get their parts from China so hopefully a reasonable price as well. They have over 50 different parts for 335. Hi Narjan, are you talking about kwokhing.com ? So they answered your email or have you received your order yet. I have bought many times from kwokhing.com and I was first the sewing machine user to buy from them. Normally they sell to dealers and big factories and they where very exited to here about my opinions/experiences with their products. I posted positively about their products here and got on a good relationship with them. The strange thing was that they did not answer my last emails and the last time I heard from them was about a year ago. I still need some parts from them, so I will try again. I looked at that Indian web site you posted about. Its a very strange web site with allot of product codes only. They have no description, code lists or original brand part number, I can recognize some of the parts. Nevertheless, this is not the way to sell parts. Many parts are very similar, you got to know its part number and machine brand. Thanks Tor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
najram2007 Report post Posted March 24, 2014 Hi Tor I did get my order. I deal with Michael Ko. spareparts@kwokhing.com He has been very good in responding to my emails and getting my order processed and delivered. Keep trying. Yes the Indian site is abit difficult to understand. I emailed them but haven't got a response yet. Marjan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted March 25, 2014 Hi Tor I did get my order. I deal with Michael Ko. spareparts@kwokhing.com He has been very good in responding to my emails and getting my order processed and delivered. Keep trying. Yes the Indian site is abit difficult to understand. I emailed them but haven't got a response yet. Marjan Hi Marjan, thank you. I use to deal with Bosko Ko, seams like he is family. Perhaps his not around anymore, It was a personal email: bosko att kwokhing dot com (anti spam display format). I will try the other email. Thanks Tor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charles1 Report post Posted May 9, 2015 (edited) What thickness of leather can you sew? The way in which Pfaff designates its machines is rather confusing to me - particularly with respect to the designation of H2 vs. H3 machines that bear the designation B vs. C. The H3 means it is a normal lift. H4 means high lift -meaning the feet would lift higher for more clearance under the feet. The "B" means it is a B class. C is heavier than a B class, C/D is heavier in sewing capabilities than C, etc. The D class was the heaviest model in the 335. Given the fact that this thread is a bit old and it is about a Pfaff 335 machine, and the fact my question applies more broadly to the model designation of other Pfaff machines as well, I have deleted the detailed question from this thread, and started a new thread that deals with the thickness of leather that Pfaff H3 machines can sew ("What thickness of leather can a Pfaff H3 "B" machine sew? ") . Edited May 9, 2015 by Charles1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted May 9, 2015 A 335 can normally sew about 3/8" of leather. It also depends on the type of leather. Whether a n H2, H3 or H4, that will dictate how high the feet lift. H2 and H3 are about the same with a 11mm foot lift. The H4 is about 14 mm of lift. Class indicates the balance wheel size, size of the needle hole in the feed dog and sometimes the heaviness of certain links and parts inside of the machine. D class will have the biggest balance wheel diameter and the largest needle hole size in the feed dog. Your H3 will have 11mm of lift. The B class will have the smallest size diameter on the balance wheel. The smaller the balance wheel, the less torque you have on the needle penetrating the material. My best advice is to test sew the machine. Again, the letters and numbers mean: H is lift on the feet of the machine H4 is the high lift version B, C, C/D and D is most of the time diameter of the balance wheel, size of needle hole, heaviness of certain internal parts P 4 motion drop feed N maximum stitch length of 6mm L for leather sewing S for sewing cloth M safety clutch although it may have it without the letter M on the plate Hope that helps. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charles1 Report post Posted May 9, 2015 (edited) A 335 can normally sew about 3/8" of leather. It also depends on the type of leather. Whether a n H2, H3 or H4, that will dictate how high the feet lift. H2 and H3 are about the same with a 11mm foot lift. The H4 is about 14 mm of lift. Class indicates the balance wheel size, size of the needle hole in the feed dog and sometimes the heaviness of certain links and parts inside of the machine. D class will have the biggest balance wheel diameter and the largest needle hole size in the feed dog. Your H3 will have 11mm of lift. The B class will have the smallest size diameter on the balance wheel. The smaller the balance wheel, the less torque you have on the needle penetrating the material. My best advice is to test sew the machine. Again, the letters and numbers mean: H is lift on the feet of the machine H4 is the high lift version B, C, C/D and D is most of the time diameter of the balance wheel, size of needle hole, heaviness of certain internal parts P 4 motion drop feed N maximum stitch length of 6mm L for leather sewing S for sewing cloth M safety clutch although it may have it without the letter M on the plate Hope that helps. glenn Glenn: Thanks, immensely for the prompt and very useful guide to the codes on the Pfaff machine model plate. Since I do not intend ot use those machines to sew 3/8", an issue might arise only in areas where seams overlapped - and experience will tell what the machine can do. Even so, I wonder if you can give a few more clarifications - just to satisfy my curiosity if I do approach the limits with the 335 H3 and 195 H3 "B" machines when sewing some types of leather that have not been a problem on my 545 H3 "C". I'm asking because I have recently acquired a 335 H3 "B" and a 195 H3 "B" to use in conjunction with the 545 H3 "C" machine. What is the maximum needle and thread size? Is it different on the "B" and "C" machines? If the "C" machines can use heavier needles and thicker thread, can you modify a "B" machine - say by putting a larger wheel on the machine or by using a speed reducer (to increase the torque) - and by increasing the size of the needle hole in the feed dog (and repositioning the hook if necessary), so that the "B" machines will accommodate the same needl and thread and the same thickness of material as the "C" machine will handle? Is there much of a risk that by pushing the "B" machine towards the performance of a "C" that you would damage to the internal parts of the "B" machines that have been replaced with stronger parts in the "C" and "D" machines? Can you reduce or eliminate the risks when you push a "B" machine to sew what you really should be using a "C" machine to sew ... by sewing very carefully and at a much slower pace in those circumsttances where you might be approaching 3/8" inches in particularly hard leathers? I know that it will require just getting on with it and seeing what will work, but guidance as to the potential pitfalls would be helpful. Thanks. Charles Edited May 9, 2015 by Charles1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted May 12, 2015 Charles1, -only difference between a "B" and "C" machine should be size of balance wheel, needle hole size in feed dog and maybe in the linkage. Needle holes in feed dogs can be enlarged with a Dremel and Mitchell cord. No big deal. I would say the maximum thread size would be #207 on top, don't use in bobbin. Needle size would be #24 and you will have to check needle hole size in feed dog. -You can run larger needles in a "B" machine but again, the needle hole in the feed dog may have to be enlarged. I have done this a lot. it is no big deal. -Pushing the "B" machine to sew heavier is not a big deal so long as you stay to a maximum #24 needle and #207 thread on top, #138 on bottom. -You can put a bigger balance wheel on a "B" machine. I did it on a Pfaff 1295 post machine we have at work. -As I stated earlier, you can sew heavier things on a "B" machine. Just watch what you are doing. The machines will handle it in most cases so long as you do not go overboard it what you are attempting to sew. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charles1 Report post Posted May 13, 2015 Glenn: Thanks, immensely. That's what I needed to know - and what I was hoping to hear. Charles Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
