Seiko 8Bld-3 - Any Differences From The Clones?

[SLudlow]

Purchased a new Seiko 8BLD-3 with table and servo motor. She's a beaut, and does exactly what I need her to do for the production work we do here and there. I just wanted to touch base and make sure that I understand her right. AFAIK, the more common Consew 206RB is almost an exact clone, so all info on this forum that pertains to the 206RB will pertain to the Seiko. This is correct, no? The posts regarding the National clone also apply, AFAIK?

There aren't any particular quirks to her, or anything I should be aware of before we get her really chugging? I'll be using much of the info in the recent "breaking into the Industrial machine" thread on guidance for needles and thread sizing.

Last but not least, she came set up for upholstry work. Any recommended modifications or purchases I should make in the near future for the leatherwork we do? That work being your basic rifle slings, guitar straps, 8/9oz belts, wallets, and 5oz bags. Most she will ever be asked to do is 20oz for a few inches.

[Wizcrafts]

SLudlow;

I personally modified my National 300N to sew leather. It started life in an upholstery shop sewing nothing heavier than two layers of medium weight Naugahyde, with only #69 bonded nylon and #18 round point needles. It was equipped with a 1/3 HP clutch motor that was way out of adjustment. Below are the things I did to convert the machine into a leather stitcher.

• Replaced the old clutch with a servo motor and 50mm motor pulley.
  
• Replaced the drive belt with a shorter new v-belt to match the smaller motor and pulley.
  
• Replaced the beehive tension spring on the top disks with a heavy duty spring from a dealer.
  
• Increased the spring tension and travel on the check spring.
  
• Replaced the coil pressure spring over the presser foot with a heavier duty spring (dealer)
  
• Bought a swing-away edge guide that clamps over the front of the body and screws down over the feed dog shaft that resides under the front of the machine.
  
• Bought a roller edge guide and had a welder secure the screw in the swing-away bracket so I could tighten down the knurled nut with pliers. Dealers will now do this conversion for you.
  
• Replaced the upholstery double welting foot set with several standard, left toe and right toe sets.
  
• Sanded, rounded and polished the sharp edges of left and double toe outside feet.
  
• Applied Emory cloth to the sharp teeth on the feed dog.
  
• Played with the position of the crank that controls the balance between forward and reverse stitching to match holes (most of the time).
  
• Replaced the old bobbin case with a 6 pack of new Consew 206 M style cases and 2 dozen black steel bobbins.
  
• Purchased packages of system 135x16 leather point needles, in sizes 16 through 24.
  
• Purchase thread in sizes 92 through 207.
  
• Paid for the machine in one month sewing rifle slings with #138 thread, top and bottom, under contract from a local leathercraft store. This is where radiusing and buffing the left edges of the outer feet paid off.
  

I still have that machine, although it is rarely used since I bought a 20 inch body Singer 139. I found that the best needle/thread combination was a #23 diamond, triangle, or LL leather point needle with #138 pre-lubricated bonded nylon thread. I sewed at about 10 stitches per second on the straight-aways, slowing down to single stitching, at 1 per second, around the turnaround where the tail is sewn into the back of the body. The slings and tails were made of 5 - 6 ounce chrome tanned leather on top, with a 4 ounce suede lining rubber glued to the bottom. There were 1/2 inch thick green foam pads sandwiched near the front half. These caused the soft tops to bulge up as I sewed. The feet were gouging a line along the raised edges, until I learned to radius and polish them.

I tried another modification that allowed the machine to sew thicker leather (7/16"), but the needles were 3/16" longer and tended to bend or break every day I used them. I had to sew so slowly that it was very frustrating trying to not break the thread or needles. Also, the foot pressure was so strong to hold down the leather, it gouged channels in the top layer and the feeder teeth destroyed the bottom. I fixed this problem by purchasing a Cowboy CB4500.

Edited February 21, 2014 by Wizcrafts

[SLudlow]

Thank you very much for the comprehensive listing of modifications! Incredibly helpful, and I really appreciate it. I'll be putting many of these recommendations into practice in the near future!

[DDahl]

I have the same model seiko. Seiko is actually a sewing machine manufacturer in Japan. At one time they made the Consew 206RB for Consew (who is only a renaming distributer like Baby Lock). Consew in recent years turned to 206RB Chinese clones of the Seiko (cost?). Make sure that you try to buy critical parts like hooks and tensioners from Seiko or at least make sure they are stamped made in Japan (much higher quality). Same advice goes for any 206RB clone owners.

[SLudlow]

DDahhl,

Thanks for the reply! I hope that you've enjoyed your Seiko, any quirks or oddities that you've noticed working with her? (I ask only because I think every machine has its little differences, even amongst clones) This particular machine was purchased new for $1350 including servo and table. Ty for the advice regarding purchasing brand-name parts, I'd been operating on the idea that I would likely source the more readily available consew parts.

- Stefan

[DDahl]

Keystone Sewing Machine Company handles both Consew and Seiko (among others). Their 206RB style critical parts are all Seiko or Japan made.

Your Seiko is very forgiving. Unlike the 206RB it has a special plate to prevent side deflection of the upper walking foot system. Unlike machines like the Juki 1541S equivalent you can always remove the bobbin case once the needle has cleared the stitch plate (very nice feature). Also you can actually start sewing with only about 1" of thread coming out of the bobbin case even when it hasn't actually been pulled up through the stitch plate (e.g. just dangling under the machine's bed - don't try that with a Juki). I view the Seiko as a real bargan! Japan quality at around a Chinese clone price.

I assume you have a Seiko manual. It is very well written and covers all the adjustments in detail. I would suggest that checking and adjusting your machine using this manual will insure you the greatest longterm satisfaction with your Seiko. Remember, no machine ever arrives perfectly adjusted (ignore the dealer claims), and learning how to adjust it successfully yourself is your best insurance that it will be the best it can be.

[paprhangr]

Wiz could you explain about sandng the edges of the feet

my 206 is leaving footmarks

[Wizcrafts]

Wiz could you explain about sandng the edges of the feet

my 206 is leaving footmarks

Use a belt sander with fine grit sand paper inline with the left edge of the presser foot, or else rub the foot back and forth over Emory cloth, until the sharp left and back edges are slightly rounded. Then take it to your Harbor Freight dual wheel cloth buffer, apply green polishing compound, and buff the steel to a high gloss, especially along the bottom to side edges.

[SLudlow]

Wiz,

Again, thank you very much for the informative info! Really do appreciate it. I do have the manual; so much more comprehensive than I'm used to. I'll be doing quite a bit of fiddling and adjusting to make her purr.

I just love how flexible she was working on different weights on a single piece. Great machine.

[Bgene]

I took a sewing class at college, auto upholstery. I recently got my hands on an old Juki LU562. Wanted to get it all tuned up, timing off. Does anyone have any info about this machine and is it even worth repairing if needed

[Wizcrafts]

4 hours ago, Bgene said:

I took a sewing class at college, auto upholstery. I recently got my hands on an old Juki LU562. Wanted to get it all tuned up, timing off. Does anyone have any info about this machine and is it even worth repairing if needed

Please start a new topic about your particular machine. This topic from 2014 was about the Seiko 8bld, not the Juki LU machines.