Refurbishing Old Stamps

[bdetteg]

I've recently come into a collection of about 200 older crafttool stamps, looks like most of them are 50s-era, based on the crips lines of the stamping surfaces. Several of them have some corrosion/rust and all of them are just plain dusty. I'd like to clean them up but I don't want to wreck them. What's the best way to remove corrosion without removing too much good material? Should I wax them after cleaning? What's the best way to keep the corrosion in check?

Pardon the rookie question, but I think they'll make great tools after they're cleaned up.

--Bernadette

[Tree Reaper]

I would wash them and try soaking them in CLR for a few minutes then wash them again.

[bdetteg]

good thought; I'll give that a shot, thanks!

--Bernadette

[bruce johnson]

Acids can etch them if the chrome is gone. Many thanks to Ray who referred me to EvapoRust/Metal Rescue. These are rust chelators (not converters like Naval Jelly) and remove the rust without harming the base metal. Almost safe enough to drink and minimnal warning labels. Most of the big name D-I-Y stores have one or the other, Harbor Freight, hardware stores, etc. I have used both brands and think they are probably very similar. You soak the stamps or whatever in the solution from a couple hours up to a day or so. It is room temperature sensitive, so the warmer the room the faster it works. (more on that later) The solution gets dark, but lasts a long time. Basically you use it until it doesn't work anymore. I strain it through a coffee filter back into the jug to keep the particles out. If you Google the brands you can see that two TV personalities endorse each brand.

I called one and under condition of anonymity he shared a tip. He heats small parts in an aluminum pot and what takes 18 hours normally takes about 15 minutes. I tried it and same experience. You just have to get the solution warm. I go warm enough to stick a finger in for a second, but too hot to leave it there. Swirl the pan every couple minutes, fish the parts or stamps out with tongs and check them. If they need more time, drop them back in to stew.

I have now done a bunch of stamps and parts, and don't think twice about dropping Jueschke stamp or a propriety threaded fastener in anymore. This stuff works and is safe.

[Tree Reaper]

Using a nylon toothbrush lightly will help clean the stubborn ones but be sure to wear safety glasses if using the brush with chemicals.

[bdetteg]

Thanks to both of you on the replies.

[WyomingSlick]

If you don't like the idea of messing with other chemicals, you may have something in your kitchen that works as good as anything I've ever seen. That is Cream of Tartar, the same stuff used in baking. The following is a guide I posted on eBay years ago, and I have cleaned hundreds of tools easily with this method.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/Leather-Stamp-Rust-Removal-UPDATED-/10000000002529441/g.html

Leather Stamp Rust Removal - UPDATED !

If you have leather stamps to sell that have a bit of rust on them, take a hint from Ron Ross at the International Internet Leathercrafter's Guild.

Note - this is generally for chrome-plated tools only! This mixture will corrode steel tools. It may be used on them but try it first with a "junker" first!

1. Disolve a teaspoon or two of cream of tarter in water in an ALUMINUM pan and heat on stove until simmering. Cream of tarter is found in the baking dept at the grocery store. Do not use a steel or iron pan as it will react with this mixture.

2. Remove excessive rust with super-fine steel wool ( 00 or 000 ) if called for. Submerge tools in pan and let them simmer awhile. Stir lightly from time to time and check for progress. You will see the water become cloudy as the rust is removed.

3. Check for progress from time to time and remove tools when satisfied. CAREFUL! Tools will be hot. Wipe residue off with fine steel wool or with Scotch-Brite pad. Rinse tools well in water and dry completely. A hair blower works great for this.

4. If you live in a high moisture area you may want to prevent future rusting. A very light coating of any of the commercial plastic spray coatings will work. I myself use Rain-X which is a micro-crystaline wax that can be found in the auto dept at stores. Just coat and buff; this will leave a fine layer of wax which will retard further rusting.

[BDAZ]

If I had a similar problem I would use the tumbler I have for cleaning brass for reloading like this one at Harbor Freight. Use crushed walnut shells (available at your local pet shop) and tumble until all the crud is gone. This process should avoid any damage to the business end of the tool. I would only tumble a few at a time and it will probably take a few hours per run. No chance of ruining the tools with caustic chemicals.

Cya!

Bob

Edited March 1, 2014 by BDAZ

[Mudruck]

Just wanted to say thanks to Bruce for the tip on evaporust. I got a batch of antique stamps that had a some surface rust on the grip areas due to being used for the last 60+ years. A quick soak and they are all cleaned up and looking dang near new. Pretty amazing stuff and didn't harm the chrome plating on those that had it and cleaned up the straight steel tools without messing with any of the tooling surfaces. One happy lil camper here. Although I did debate leaving them all nasty and cruddy to keep them 'original'.

Edited March 9, 2014 by Mudruck