rawcustom Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 So I've been reviewing awl designs until my head spins and since I have to be stubborn on things, I'm thinking I will just make my own. This will be for sewing my knife sheaths so typically 3 layers of 10oz leather. Would a diamond design be best for this? And how big of rod should I start with, 1/8"? 1/8" seems a bit big, but I imagine it will need some mass to be sturdy enough for the task ahead. Any notes on blade length and dimensions, and handle length dimension are well appreciated. Sounds like at least 1 flat on a handle is useful for not having your awl roll of a bench if nothing else. Thanks Quote
Members J Hayes Posted February 28, 2014 Members Report Posted February 28, 2014 I put a small flat on mine just to keep it "indexed" in my hand, helped keep the same angle to the holes. Quote
Tree Reaper Posted February 28, 2014 Report Posted February 28, 2014 The flat side is handy when you are stitching something with high sides, it allows you to get closer so the blade enters straight and not at an angle. I made a handle but buy the blades. I haven't made a blade but I think you'll be looking at shaping, hardening and tempering prior to sharpening. Quote
rawcustom Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Posted February 28, 2014 So a flat side will be part of my design for sure. The process of making a blade is not an issue, I'm a knifemaker. I am more concerned with the right dimensions. If you can post pics and/or measurements I would appreciate it. Quote
Tree Reaper Posted February 28, 2014 Report Posted February 28, 2014 (edited) A finished Osborne awl blade is 7/64" wide, 3/64" on the flatter side and my preference for a blade length would be about 1 1/4" outside the handle, the Osborne is only 1". Edited February 28, 2014 by Tree Reaper Quote
Tree Reaper Posted February 28, 2014 Report Posted February 28, 2014 How do you plan on shaping the blade? Quote
rawcustom Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Posted February 28, 2014 I built a custom belt grinder for my knifemaking, it will do the heavy lifting. I'll probably use O1 so I can heat treat myself. I'll probably take a couple shots at free-handing, and if it's doesn't work I'll fix up a jig for it. Quote
Tree Reaper Posted February 28, 2014 Report Posted February 28, 2014 My next awl will be made with a pin vise to get into tight places. I'll use a wooden handle that the pin vise can be set into but leave three or four inches of the vise outside the handle. Quote
rawcustom Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Posted February 28, 2014 This is exactly how I'm planning to handle the mandrel issue. A decent pin vise is only about $5. I plan to drill out my handle to accept the pin vise and lock it either with a screw or simply epoxy it in. Quote
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