robhixkg Report post Posted March 5, 2014 Hey all, I would like to run my plans by someone with a little more experience that me. This is my second leatherworking project and I want to get it right. I have a group of 9 Cub Scouts and we are going to make three-legged camp stools with a leather seat. The seat, of course, is triangular. We are using 8-9 oz leather. Here is a link to the plan for the stool we are making: Leather Seated Camp Stool Here is my current plan. Have the scouts cut out the seats using a template. Adhere leather reinforcement triangles under each corner of the seat using contact cement. The reason we are doing this is because in my first leather project I built these stools with 5-6 oz leather and it split out under my weight. I do not want that to ever happen with the scouts, even when they get older. The seat is attached to the wooden legs with a #10 x 1" brass screw and a decorative cup washer for the screw (the washer is to distribute some of the forces). Use a pyrography tool to burn a fleur-de-lis into the seat. Apply neets foot oil to the seat for a simple finish. In working this out, this is about as simple as I could get it for the scouts. We are not getting real fancy with edge treatments, etc. We are also making some stools for the adults. Some of us weigh 250+. The salesman at Tandy Leather assured me the double layer of 8-9 oz leather would not tear out at the screw under adult weights. However, I would like to be a little more proactive and make sure that things are fine for the adult weight. On my stool, on each corner I am considering not only gluing with contact cement, but also doing a two-needle running stitch and a double loop stitch around the edges to help further prevent tear out on the corners. Do I need both stitched or can I get by with just the double loop stitch on the outsides of the triangle and the running stitch across the bottom of the triangle? I am going to show the scouts how to do the stitching, but because of the time factor, I will leave them to do that on their own. Sorry for the length of the post, but I wanted to make sure my thoughts were right before we did this in a couple of weeks. When we get them done, I will post some pictures of the scouts and parents with their projects. Thanks for the help, Rob Hix Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ikewineb Report post Posted March 5, 2014 So, I assume you are talking about sewing the renforcement triangles to the main top piece in addition to the glue? If that is the case, I can't see where sewing would add any strength. It might look better, but I would think that's about it. The glue (assuming you are using contact cement or barge) is a lot stronger than you might think. Is it a washer or a gromet? That's where I would assume most of the support would come from. You could put some additional stiffiner between the two layers of leather. Kydex, sheet metal, anything thin and strong. Though it will make that corner extremely rigid. Side note...Neatsfoot oil is not a finish. It will soften the leather, but won't protect it to any great extenet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted March 5, 2014 (edited) I would go a head and stitch in addition to the glue there it may not add strength but it adds insurance and gives support to the glued areas. for the triangle to break away it would have to tear the glued triangles away from the seat. With the stitching it makes it almost impossible for that to happen. As to your stitching you may not be using the terminology the same way I do or vise a versa. I would use a saddle stitch which you may be calling a double stitch. Saddle stitch you have one piece of thread with a needle at each end you go through each hole with each needle from opposite sides. Look for Nigel Armitages you tube video on saddle stitching. Or do a search on these forums for it, it has been posted many times. I agree with Ikewineb oil is not a finish it is a treatment put the oiled leather out in the sun and the leather will get a nice light brown or golden tone to it. Depending on the leather. There are several things you cane use as a top coat. Montana Pitch Blennd and SKidmores cream are both natural products with oils beeswax and Montana pitch Blend has piune pitch in it. Theese products will help make the seats water resistant. Also there are acrylic finishes such as resolene super sheen etc. Edited March 5, 2014 by camano ridge Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tejas Report post Posted March 5, 2014 I'm always looking for projects for our grandson. This is definitely a next project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tejas Report post Posted March 7, 2014 On my stool, on each corner I am considering not only gluing with contact cement, but also doing a two-needle running stitch and a double loop stitch around the edges to help further prevent tear out on the corners. Since the requirement for reinforcement seems to be primarily at the corners and perhaps secondarily on the edges of the seat, since stitching is proposed perhaps lower weight leather could be used and reinforced at the corners and edges with a strip of leather that sandwiches 30 gauge clear vinyl. I've used clear vinyl without failure on boat canvas to reinforce the setting of snaps and grommets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites