Singer 111W155 Cracked Upper Arm

[oldskoolbob]

Hi,

My name is Bob I'm new to Leatherworker.net.

I picked up a Singer 111W155 as is machine for a very parts machine price.

It needs a timing belt and the previous owner could not get the handwheel off.

I managed to remove it (not easy). Now the bearing assembly is just as stuck.

I'm soaking everything in Liquid Wrench and waiting.

While cleaning and oiling this machine. I noticed some hairline cracks in the upper arm.

The arm is still quite rigid. Did these cracks happen in these old machines?

Is this the end of the road for this machine?

Any help or wisdom is welcome.

Thanks,

Bob

[Geneva]

That is probably why it sold for parts. As old as the machine is the bearing should slide off with no problem. Could be the cracks are more than just cracks where the bearing fits fo the frame of the machine. It may have been dropped on the upper arm. I hope you did not pay to much for it.

Good luck.

[CowboyBob]

On the 111w155 there's a collar on the bearing on the inside that has 2-screws in it that you need to loosen too,are they loose?.Before you try to slide it off you should look for high spots where the screws go & file them off & the bearing will slide of easier.That's usually why the wheel is hard to pull off because the screws loosen & then they burr up the shaft as people sew on it.

[oldskoolbob]

@ Geneva, The cracks are out on the arm where the cutaways are in back. I only paid $20. I thought at the least I could learn a bit about tearing down and rebuilding a compound feed machine without any risk of investment. Worst case, I could strip it and have a decent box of spares and maybe a nice garden planter.

@Cowboy Bob, The set screws are out of the collar. I then dripped penetrating oil into the bores in the collar. The handwheel had slipped and the set screws cut a nice groove on the shaft. I turned the wheel while holding the shaft. I basically polished the groove as the wheel turned along it.

Do you drop into the screw bores and polish the shaft?

Thanks for your help folks,

Bob

[CowboyBob]

Where the ridges form is on to of the slot on the shafts.Is the single screw in the back loose?If so sometimes the careful use of a hammer & old flat screwdriver or punch will break it loose,hitting it from the inside.

[oldskoolbob]

That bearing assembly is very stuck. The two set screws on the collar are out. The screw in the back of the main body is out and everything is soaking in penetrating oil.

I have lightly tapped it from the inside with a hammer and soft drift.

I'm thinking it's time for a heat gun.

Has any one ever had a bearing this stuck?

The bearings are still smooth and I don't see any wobble to suggest a bent shaft.

I also don't see any rust or heat discoloration that might suggest part seizure.

I'm trying to be slow and careful.

On other machinery, I have been able to use a gear puller.

That top access hole doesn't give me much to work with.

Anybody have an affordable 111W for sale?

Thanks,

Bob

[Constabulary]

Last year I restored a 111G156 which is about the same machine but with reverse.

My bearing was very stuck too. I almost thought I will ruin the machine when I tapped out the bearing. I was not gentle - really not! As fas as I remember the shaft was slightly thicker toward the hand wheel. Bearing went tight over the shaft when I put it back in but since then it sews like a dream.

I still have a picture

[Constabulary]

here is a picture of the scars I tapped into the new bearing - you see I was not gentle!

[oldskoolbob]

Thanks Constabulary

I feel better knowing that bearing aseembly can be given a "push"

The pictures are a big help.

It appears to be a standard ball bearing set in there.

It seems to make sense to replace it with the trouble it takes to get out.

The bearing assembly looks to be 4 parts: 1 inner collar, 2 outer case, 3 bearing, 4 case cover. Is that right?

Does that assembly come apart once it is out of the machine?

I always assume the balls or races are dented with all that hammering going on.

[Constabulary]

I didn´t take the bearing apart. I took it off for changing the timing belt.

I have attached a PDF parts list for your machine. Seems the bearing has 3 parts+ screws.

BTW - for some reason I wrote NEW bearing at the above post, seems I had a weak moment. The bearing is not new, I just removed it, replaced the timing belt and put it back in.

When I tapped it out I put the driving shaft against the wall with a thick piece of wood between wall and shaft.

You know what I mean?

111w155 Parts List.pdf

Edited April 5, 2014 by Constabulary

[Knifedood]

I’ve got a 111w155 with the end of the arm shaft bent and the end wheel busted, evidently someone dropped it, does anyone have or know where I can get instructions on how to replace it? I’ve got a new hand wheel, arm shaft and bearing ordered but I haven’t been able to get the old shaft out yet. Any help would be appreciated. 

[Quade]

You're kind of on your own. I never found a good disassembly and re-assembly manual.  That said I completely disassembled and re-assembled my 211 (new version of the 111). It's not that hard.   I'd take pictures of everything before I took anything off

1 - Line up the take up arm to it's highest point and note which Letter the timing belt is set to in the bottom.  Some manuals say line up on A, some on B. You want to know before you take it apart. 

2 - The upper shaft is sandwiched between the hand wheel and a counterweight on the other end of the machine.  My counterweight had 2 set screws into the shaft.  You ought to be able to release these set screws to release that end of the shaft.  It's very similar to replacing the take up arm so, you might look at those instructions. 

3 - Note the position of the clutched thing that drives the walking foot. Getting that timed properly took me the most time and I'm still not sure it's exactly right.  Maybe see where it is in relation to the timing marks before you pull the belt.

4 - That spring loaded clutch thing that moves the walking feet has set screws into the shaft (I'm assuming the 111 is the same as the 211 here). There's two set screws which aren't the two next to pan head screws.  There might be a spacer on the shaft on the needle side of this thing. It's got a set screw too. 

5 - There's a set screw in the thing on the shaft that drives the bobbin winder (if yours is on top like the 211). 

6 - The upper timing gear has two set screws into the shaft. One deep and one shallow. You need to note their position when you take them out. 

With all that loosened up, you ought to be able to slide the shaft out the hand wheel side.  I found that if the foot driver spring retainer is too tight, it can squeeze the shaft. If you loosen them and the spring comes out, you'll probably have to pull the mechanism out of the machine and get the spring retainer back on on a bench. The spring is quite strong. 

This was just my experience taking one apart. There might be an easier way.  I don't believe the timing gear will go through the casing so, the shaft has to be pulled through the gear.  

The shaft was  keyed at the timing gear and at the counterweight that drives the takeup arm and needle side.  The thing that drives the walking feet wasn't keyed. The manual seems to suggest you just eyeball it. 

Edited March 1, 2023 by Quade

[CowboyBob]

On 2/28/2023 at 6:52 PM, Knifedood said:

I’ve got a 111w155 with the end of the arm shaft bent and the end wheel busted, evidently someone dropped it, does anyone have or know where I can get instructions on how to replace it? I’ve got a new hand wheel, arm shaft and bearing ordered but I haven’t been able to get the old shaft out yet. Any help would be appreciated. 

It's usually not real easy to get out because of the old oil,lint & dirt & sometimes corrosion buildup that will require you to sand the shaft (as much of it as you can) & you will have to keep sanding it mores it slides out more .Then try the new shaft on the bearing ,pulley & walking foot cam before trying to re-install (it require some sanding for the parts to fit) it will make it alot easier for you.