Having Trouble With Rolled Edges On A Collar

[CCPhotog]

I'm running into a design issue, and I'm wondering if anyone in here has advice. I'm making collars with rolled edges.

Step 1 : Lay out the pattern on a piece of sturdy leather

Step 2 : Glue that to a piece of garment leather

Step 3 : Cut collar into shape

Step 4: Lay a strip of garment leather, good side down, onto the garment leather side of the collar. Stitch.

Step 5 : Apply adhesive to back of collar, and roll strips into place.

And this is where I tun into problems. I take a piece of fabric that's already been cut and hemmed into shape. I put it on the back of the collar, and then try to run another line of stitching snugged right up against the edges. But it's way too easy to make a mistake...

In this example, the foot of the machine was right on the edge of strap that runs down the middle, and it shifted just as the needle came down.

Other times, the stitching doesn't "grab" the fabric on the back, and I have a loose spot..

However, I can't figure out a way to finish the edges without doing another round of stitching. I considered gluing the fabric to the back, and gluing the edges of the collar over it, but my concern there is that, in time, the glue will weaken. A stitch lasts a lot longer. Plus, when the fabric part does work out, it looks great; no exposed edges, everything is either seamed or hemmed or whatnot.

[electrathon]

I think your issue is you are trying to sew on a sewn line. Try having your first line sewn a little farther in from the edge, say 3/8" and your second and final sew line closer to the edge, say at 3/32".

Or do just the opposite and sew first close to the edge and second farther away, this will depend on how you want the back to look.

Edited March 27, 2014 by electrathon

[Tree Reaper]

You can use an edge clamp or a straight stick clamped to the table to stop the shifting.

How thick can you sew with your machine and how thick is the collar?

Does the foot press down with enough pressure?

[Red Cent]

A presser foot that is wider than factory? You can get all kinds. Unless the needle kicked off the side of the leather.

[CCPhotog]

The machine is a CB3200; the collar is well under the 5/8th's it can sew.

The presser foot is the factory one. I'm getting enough pressure, it just occasionally slips when it's near an edge.

Electrathon : My goal is to not have stitching on the facing or front of the collar. I don't know if the method your describing would work for that.

[Tree Reaper]

Are you saying the needle doesn't advance or there isn't a bottom stitch when it doesn't grab?

Edited March 27, 2014 by Tree Reaper

[CCPhotog]

No, I'm saying the problem is I have trouble keeping the needle on the correct side of the rolled edge. In the final picture you can see where the needle punctured it. I don't know if there's another way to construct the collar without having to do that final line of stitching; that's the part I keep messing up on.

[Tree Reaper]

Can you not use a guide like you have on the other side?

I'm assuming the material is shifting to the left as you sew?

[CCPhotog]

I could use a guide in some areas, but the bottom of the collar changes depth, so that won't work.

And it's not even that the needle is skipping or the machine is shifting, it's just such a tight fit that even a small mistake ruins it. If anything, it's the machine that's working fine, and my poor sewing skills to blame. But I can't think of any other way to assemble this thing.

[Tree Reaper]

Are you keeping pressure on the roller guide as you sew?

Do you have a single foot?