Questions About Motorcycle Seat

[XISH077]

Hello all,

I have been reading all these topics for awhile and will soon begin my first attempt at reupholstering a motorcycle seat. I just have a couple of questions that did not seem to be covered in the other threads that I looked at.

What type of leather do you use? I was planning on using some lightweight tooling leather like Hermann Oak 2/3oz. Would there be a better option you would suggest?

There will not be any tooling on the seat, the customer requests a black leather center piece with white lacing connecting it to a black leather border. The base of the seat is plastic (it is a Suzuki Boulevard seat) and the current covering is stapled to the plastic. As I saw in the other topic threads, the most highly recommended process for attaching the leather to the base would be pop rivets with a washer to ensure the leather seat does not rip when stretching. Would this work with that thick plastic base?

One more thing, does anyone have a link to any threads or sites providing a detailed tutorial in various stitching patters? I will be using white kangaroo lace to connect the 2 pieces together, but still do not know how I will keep the lace white while dying the leather black. I will have to dye it before lacing it together, even though that is not the method most advanced seat builders have used in their walk through topic posts.

Thanks for any advice! I am excited to get any info y'all can provide.

[earthling33]

I'm looking for the same type of info. It's hard to find. I think the pros keep this stuff to themselves. Here is one link that takes you through the whole process. It's not exactly what you're looking for, but it's still helpful. This guy uses a metal custom pan. I have read that some guys won't rework the plastic OEM pans because the don't provide enough support, and then there are other guys who only rework the OEM pans. Depends on what you're into, I guess. Anyway, try different search combos on Google and YouTube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL667694AC4A48FA44&v=hXd-jbeZBSc

Edited April 18, 2014 by earthling33

[XISH077]

Thanks for the info. I was even thinking of maybe just using upholstery leather, because it seems that is what's on there now. My logic is then I could use the OEM plastic without the need to replace it with metal. I'm going to gather as much info as possible and then just figure it out as I go I guess.

[Horseshoe]

I've used pop rivets on OEM plastic seat pans with no problem. Here's a good starting point for lacing. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/books-patterns/61906-00.aspx

Edited April 21, 2014 by Horseshoe

[gorec]

Я сделал это сидений 1.6 mm.k пластиковую основе креп skobami.derzhitsya хорошо.

[pzarkov]

Hi,

I have same motorcycle.Suzuki Volusia VL800 2003.Used OEM seat .Good luck.

[tomt]

I done to motorcycle seats they both had plastic pans and I use staples with no problems then on the seat I used 4 5 oz then 2 3 oz on side pandle hope this help a litte bit

[JohnD]

When covering a plastic pan, depending on the thickness and age of the pan, it might be a good idea to put the washers on the backside if the pan, so the rivets wont crack the plastic. A dab of super glue will hold them in place, which you'll needto do before putting the foam on, so it might not work for your situation. I' ve rivetted plastic pans without them with no problems though. I never use rivets on the outside of the leather and have had no issues. When I do that style of seat I also cover the bottom with wool felt to hide the rivets and edges of the leather.

2/3 oz is what I use, but just be careful when tightening your lacing and, if wet forming, be careful how hard you pull, because the thinner veg tanned leather will tear at your lacing slots.

If you're going to wet form and stretch the leather over the seat, be wary of how hard you pull, because the plastic pans will warp and twist. If its still intact, using the old covering as a pattern for cutting the new leather will help get a better fit and minimize some of the stretching needed, just be sure to consider to add any overlap you'll need to the size of the pattern.

A factory dyed upholstery leather may be better, although, Ive never used it, it may be hard to wet form it. If you do have a problem with the lace picking up the dye, using short lengths of lace may help to keep it white. I usually do this any way to keep the lace from stretching thin during the lacing process.

As for links for lacing, I have none. The only reference I use for lacing is this: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/books-patterns/lacing-braiding/6022-00.aspx

I only use a few of the stitches in it but its pretty easy to follow. Hope some of this info is useful.

[JohnD]

Just to add, if you have a heavy duty staple gun that will go through the plastic, that should work fine. I have never used one for this but, once the leather dries, after molding it pretty much stays put.

[David]

I've done a few seats....like 500 or so. I wouldn't use anything less than 7-8 oz. if you want to tool it. Same weight for the back depending on if it is a solo springer (7-8 oz.) or a frame mounted seat (3-4 oz.)

check out the pinned threads by Roger for a frame mounted seat

for solo seats check out my pinned posts.

Dave Theobald

Don't rely too much on you tube videos. Most of those guys don't know squat.

Edited May 2, 2014 by David

[pzarkov]

Я сделал это сидений 1.6 mm.k пластиковую основе креп skobami.derzhitsya хорошо.

Не знаю ,может они не понимают Руский язик....Хорошое сидение на фотке.Ето за меня ,лутшей сайт за нами: http://arnesi.ru

Если что та,спрашевай,помогу.Успех...

Sorry for my Russian.

Good luck!!

[XISH077]

Wow, thank all of you for the info! I just ordered that book for lacing and stitching.

Gorec & Pzarkov thanks for the pics. Those are amazing seats and the pictures will be a HUGE help when completing my project.

John D - I don't understand what you mean when you say you don't use rivets on the outside of the leather?! I do not have a staple gun strong enough to get through leather AND into the OEM pan. So I will most definitely be using pop rivets and I planned on just placing them evenly along the border edge of the leather on the underside of the pan, right through the leather, is this not advisable?

and Dave - You would recommend 7/8oz leather all the way around the seat? I think the easiest approach to this would be to make multiple "sections" (kind of like the seat Pzarkov posted) and then lace them all together. You would use 7/8 for every piece? Also, if I am not tooling...I should still go with 7/8oz? Thanks

Thank you, thank you, thank you

[JohnD]

I just reread my first post and just wanted to clarify, I meant to write that I never use WASHERS on the outside of the leather and have never had problems.

Also, the 2/3 oz is only used for the sides, when wet molding is necessary. As David said, thicker leather is needed for any tooling that will be done.

Although I don't go as thick as David, I generally use somewhere around 5-7 oz, depending on the shape that it needs to conform to.

If there won't be any toolong on the seat, thinner leather will mold and conform bettter, which will make things look much better in the end.

Edited May 3, 2014 by JohnD

[David]

My solo seats are all 7-8 oz. front and back. All of my seats are 2 piece. For a frame mounted seat 7-8 for the top and 3-4 for the sides which are pulled around and riveted to the back. Again check out the posts by Roger for frame mounted seats. The Christian bike seat was my how-to for spring mounted solo seats.